ScaredSilly

When I got my first policy State Farm removed the double indemnity clause and bumped the premium. But nothing like what you are talking about. After ten years they dropped the restrictions. I was very up front about the extra activities (climbing, diving, no ATV or flying). What made some of the difference is that 1) I taught climbing classes, 2) I did it regularly, and 3) did it at a high level (difficult climbs). Not sure shy the last made a difference but it did.

Two winters (early March) ago when the Carbon River Road was washed out we walked in from the Carbon River Station. It took about 2 - 2.5 hours to get to Ipsut Creek Campground. There were quite a few people walking and biking on the road. We left about noon and got up to the meadows that day and up to the base of the Willis the next. Then we played ;-).

Yeah, they are going to know the labels on their gear by heart. Hopefully they do not do anything crazy like the remove the tab that says "Do not remove under penalty of law" It would really suck to arrive at Timberline only to have the Sheriff want to chat with them about all those labels. ;-). The above may sounds silly but keeping positive is a real key to things. During one winter ski tour my partner and I got hammered with 12 feet of snow in 4 days then the temps dropped to -50F. As we wallowed through the snow our manta became "Are we having fun yet?" Everytime time one of us would say that the other would laugh.

The locators are a *@#$% farce. The press will be all over this. Of course if you can not get in range they do not doing one @#$% piece of good. Let alone people on the hill to help. They naturally fail to mentioned this little fact. Here is one reason why the two climbers might have descended Coper Spur. They would have seen this route on their approach. As such, when the weather crapped out they might have decided that descending Cooper Spur was a better option because it would at least take them down terrain they had at least seen. Which would lead to terrain they had previously traveled. Also if one thinks about it Cooper Spur has better features for following in a white out than the south side. Of course this is pure speculation.

Man, I hope that I never have to be rescued after a trip to REI. After flying into SeaTac we stop by REI on every trip up Rainier to buy fuel, food, and even one time a head lamp cause I forgot mine. I think a few times we asked for directions on how to get to the hill. Mean while it sounds like it is power shower on Hood. A cave is a good place to be. Hope it turns out well.

I prefer a 100m as a half/twin. I got an 8.3mm from PMI that is rated as both a half and twin rope. When I want to run it out I can otherwise double it up on the harder stuff.

Fred has probably drank more booze too.

Thanks. I was the RC for what was the Great Basin through most of the 90s. Which included many states but not Oregon. However, I did do a little in far eastern Oregon - Lesile Gulch. That was interesting to say the least. Lesile Gulch also made the Falcon guide. Cetainly a place I would stop at - right after I get off the Oywhee BTW - I should add I am no longer associated with the Access Fund in any form as such my comments are mine alone. And if you think otherwise - you are a fool.

I do not see anyone making such statements. Most comments are more of these are small crags and are surprised to see them in the guide. I interpert this comment to mean the authors were short on material and looking for fodder. The other previlent comment is about the accuracy of the guide. Some of the crags are on private property, some are in sensitve areas. Then there is the "missing" info like history and FA info. Finally, there is a long history in the climbing community of respecting the local ethics of an area, which often includes keeping areas quite until "the discovers get in their licks first". There is also a long history of controversy as well. I have delt with this personally on and off for over 15 years. (I was on the board of the Access Fund from day one and a regional coordinator for way too many years) Yes and no ... people can vote with their wallets if it is time. Personally the I would not buy the book. The quality of the book depends on the authors and as importantly the editors and publishers. Falcon is pumping out guide books left and right I wonder who the editors are, if any?? When I talked to the Falcon reps at the OR show I got the impression that there are none. As such, they are leaving the "editing" up to the authors which means quality goes down hill. How about the rest of Montana? A sample of one does not mean squat. Surly yours, Scared Silly

We are talking about the same thing just different names. And yes the Public Shelter and the Guides Hut are on the historic register. Most people do not know this. As for the heresay this would not surprise me. Last year I heard some of the "plans" that the NPS planners wanted to do at Muir. Having delt with them at the City of Rocks all I can say is that the NPS planners have a lot to be desired. They seem to bent on building for the sake of building have do not have much of a clue.

All of this can be found in the commercial services plan that was approved last spring. Unfortunately, I can not find the docs on line currently as the link seems to be down. http://www.nps.gov/archive/mora/current/park_mgt.htm#CSP In a nut shell the independent guide program is not through any agency but guides will have to show proficiency which may be through AMGA or similar. Also as part of this and the Camp Muir restoration. The gumbo cook shelter that was constructed under questionable conditions will be torn down. And more than likely each of the consessions will have their own hut such as Weatherport which can be taken down each season. The more interesting part is what will become of the guides hut. Personally I would like to see all of the guides in Wetherports, the NPS a frame removed and with the rangers using the guidfe hut. This would certainly reduce some of the permanent footprint at Muir.

Get on line and rent a car. We have gotten them pretty cheap in the past. I think the best we did was $20 a day.

Must have gotten tired of the quality issues and all the recalls.

My favorite drug for preventing AMS is large quanties of dihydogen-monoxide.

Tetons - Jackson & Ortenbuger latest edition is about 5 years old. There is also a mini/mini guide that is fine for the trade routes. Wind Rivers - The Kelsey guide is really the only thing - helps keep the adventure level high. Desert SW - Unless you want the 4 Vol Bjornstad set or are lucky enough to find the first ed single vol from Brjonstad. Rock climbing Utah by Green is your best best. There is also a new book for S Utah and the Arizona Strip along with one for Indian Creek. coffee-table style? Canyon Country Climbs - Wiggins & Cassidy Layton Kor's book - hard to find and really $$

Mark, you really need to pull your head out of your chalk bag. Your posts are nothing more than loathsome sophomoric drool. Most intelligent people would understand that the point of my post was not to nominate a peak out of the US let alone Antarctica but to show that other countries do things different than the US. Although many people think the US is the center of the world - it aint. So open your mind your a$$ will follow. BTW I do not need any named peaks. There are already two that use my name - one in BC and one in Anarctica. But thanks for the offer. Now back on the subject. Several years ago I talked to Fred about what peak was probably his favorite. And contrary to most it is not a peak the USA. Certainly a green card peak though.

Wrong again, dumb dumb This true in US but other countries this is not always the case. For instance, several peaks in Antarctica were just named after the members of the expedition that made the first ascent of Vinson. Most of which are still alive. Not sure who regulates peak names in Antarctica but I would guess that the USGS Board was involved. I am sure Fred will get a peak, but he has a few more to climb first.

Rather than doing the car shuttle thing for descending the South Side you can just come across the Newton Clark Glacier and pick up the trail leading up to Tie-In Rock. I did this after a solo climb, the NC Galacier had very few cracks to worry about as much of it was melted out. BTW Tie-In Rock is well above where you want to traverse onto the Elliot Glacier for the NF Routes. Also Tie-In Rock can be a very windy place. If you can not get to Cloud Cap and walk in I would bivy lower down near timberline it is not far to where the cut off to the Elliot Glacier.

Just a thought ... because most of us do not have intimate knowledge of all of the areas would it be of interest for a few folks to do a collective review and send it to Falcon? I already provided several pages of info directly to Falcon while at the OR show. But if done collectively perhaps they might get the idea that the quality is lacking and that they might need to rethink what their goals are for regional guides. For instance, as I mentioned there is no FA or history info in the book which many feel is important. I can understand a few ommisions and errors here and there but perhaps it might help to pull every thing together. May be not ... it might be better to get a bunch of letters. But it would certainly be worth while for folks to chat before hand so that it will have impact. Food for thought. BTW ... I am no longer an Oregon local. Just happen to grow up there and do a few routes in the late 70s and into the late 80s. But I still have detailed notes from when I was climbing there.

From the OP I assume that the rope was taken at the security check NOT while checking bags. (Please give details - did you ask for a supervisor - did you ask for the written rules prohibiting ropes?) That said, you did have one perhaps two options that the TSA should have given you. 1) Return the item to your vehicle (may not have have been possible if you were dropped off) 2) Return to the baggage check and ask for a box or shipping bag and check the rope. Most airports have bags for childerns car seats not always boxes. You could have easily wrapped the rope in the bag and checked it. And if the rope was lost or damaged then you could have filed a claim for the rope. BTW there are three accepted was of inspecting checked bags, xray, hand, or swab. None are fool proof.

They'll just cut the locks. Even the nifty TSA ones. I can show you mine if you'd like Let me clarify ... my bags are inspected in front of me by the TSA. This inspection may be either xray, hand, or other inspection. The TSA then puts my locks on the bags. TSA then marks my bags as being inspected. At that point they go into the black hole. I have been doing this 5 years and for flights all over the USA and the world and have yet to have a lock cut or to have the TSA refuse to inspect my bag without me being present. YMMV

Kind of frustrates the purpose, eh? Yes and no. Given that there are many people carrying sat phones these days it is not that hard to get a call into someone when you need a helicopter to schelp your carcus off the hill.

Though I am AAC member I do not use the supplemental insurance. This is because I have other insurance through the Diver's Alert Network that will cover me for any evac whether climbing, diving, or hiking. The only caveat is that you must call them first in order to be covered as they will not cover you after the fact.

In the past I have walked on with climbing gear. There was no problem especially given that the screener knew what it was. Given the paranoia I would say check the gear as it will save a lot of hassle if the TSA tells you to check it. That said I no longer allow any of my bags to be exaimed withOUT me being present. This allows me to place my own locks on my bags and insures that no one will be opening it with out me being present.

I think both someone died and another was paralyzed. Several of his friends sued him afterwards. And yeah he forgot about the potential energy getting turned into a centripetal force. (The calculation is left as an exercise for the reader ;-).