ScaredSilly

Corona Arch - which is on BLM managed land so climbing on it is legal: http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/moab/recreation/hiking_trails/corona_arch_trail.html You can rappel from it as well: http://climb-utah.com/Moab/corona.htm

You would be surprised . Use the guide to help you decide, that should not be the only factor. As I said, check out the schools you may find that for what you want to do there are a number of schools that will work fine and they may not be top ranked. When I was looking at grad schools my choice was UW of UU. I chose Utah cause I figured that I would end up back in the PNW and wanted to see how the other half of the world lived. I am still in Oootah, it is a meshed up bassackwards state but I have some of the best woods in the world in which to play. Of course it took me 8 years to get through grad because of it though I really did not care (until they cut my funding off).

The above are great references. Over the years I have used most of the major brands. Currently, I am using the Mammut Pulse which has many features. Their more basic model Mammut Element would be my current recommendation for the usage you are describing. Do some searching and you can find them for under $300.

Yes ... what Shapp said. This link might help: http://mountainproject.com/v/matterhorn-west-face-wall/106356964

Bummer, sounds like the winds were harsh wonder if it was a fall or hit with ice? Sorry to those who knew Jared. BTW if makes people feel any better, copy paste some of the inane comments to this search and rescue story ;-). http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2012/02/mushroom_pickers_lost_for_six/8001149/comments-newest.html

If you are going to go to grad school pick a top ranked school. At least one in the top 50. Unless the school offers something very unique. http://grad-schools.usnews.rankingsandreviews.com/best-graduate-schools/top-science-schools/chemistry-rankings. Also go visit the schools and programs before making a decision. BTW I left the PNW years ago for grad school in Ooootah - still here. Oh, and I did some ice this weekend and skied some pow as well as doing a bit of skate skiing after work. I make frequent trips back to the PNW to climb on the glaciers.

With the FortyBelow overboots one can cut the neoprene for the bail to fit into. BITD I cut mind and then patched it with duct tape. Now, I would use a hot glue patch. The cut allows the bail to get better purchase on the heal. We did not modify the front as there was typically enough surface area to get the bail to hook in to the welt. As for crampons get something light and easy to use. Most have way more crampon than they need. IMHO one of the best was the old Chouinard Rigid crampon with bails. I used them for several Alaska trips including the Cassin. Still have a pair. A close second was the Salewa Messner Scissor which while a pain to adjust worked nicely. Both are basic crampons that were lighter weight compared to many of days crampons.

WB, it may sound odd but did you happen to stop by the ranger station and let them know about the water bottle? It may be a clue, it may be garbage ... but worth letting the NPS know about it.

Thanks for the link, Dan did climbs all over including with several friends of mine. One who noted Dan was a very humble person.

Stream it on to your HD tv much better than on your computer screen.

Park your car facing the sun. Put a sun shower in the front dash. It will be nice warm once you return in afternoon. Strip down and go for it in the parking lot - tourist love that shit.

Damn, Matt that picture hit home. I was just telling my wife about all of us meeting up in Chamonix for a session of beers, burgers, and bull shitting. Truly a sad day. Prost Jack. Allen

The purpose of wands is often not so much to mark where you have been and need to go but also to mark cracks. A GPS is of little use when it comes to cracks. Walking between two way points may just dump yer butt in a hole. While GPS have their uses learning to utilize all forms of navigation is best. As for the length for wands - it all depends on their intended purposes. The longer the time frame and the softer the snow the longer they should be. Three feet is a good length for most. Stick a foot into the snow leaving two feet exposed.

Check with rangers but I think it would be perfectly acceptable to leave a small cache at Muir (perhaps in the shelter) for a a few days. Make sure you have your name and date on it. BTW cache robbing in great fun on Aconcagua where lots of caches get left :-). As said, and why I suggested Sunrise is about the highest you are going to get while driving in the Park.

If you have 4-5 days I would suggest like others, hike up Mt Adams. Except I would suggest that afterwards relax and do some hikes around St. Helens or Rainier. And what the hell play tourist, which is why I suggested Sunrise which will give you views on the north side of the park and gives you easy access back to Seattle to pick up your climbing partners.

Take a bivy sac - either way you will be happy to have whether in the shelter or not.

How many days do you have? Most take two days to do Adams via the south side. Though I know some who have run up it a couple- three hours. Add in a rest day and you need three days. I would suggest some other day hikes around Rainier that would get you up high - especially if you have go pick up your partners back in Seattle. If that is the case think about a hike to Camp Sherman or St Elmo's Pass on the north side. Even something around Sunrise might be good. One suggestion for the trip to Muir. While technically verboten, think about bivying on the sly around Paradise the night before. Even a night at 4500 feet will make the hike to Muir easier when coming from sea level.

Careful you have not seen Sobo's hip flask: http://www.combathunting.com/FLASKS_THERMOS-64oz_Liquor_Flask_Hip_Flask.html

Another story of a surprise at the summit: http://books.google.com/books?id=c-8DAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA2&lpg=PA2&dq=mt.+rainier+wife+lawn+chair+surprize&source=bl&ots=vw8hAPxT8_&sig=IYkgHCn5mZK7x2rpIEOFVLlb-4w&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ptgMT5zOLvDisQLNwv2GBg&ved=0CFMQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=mt.%20rainier%20wife%20lawn%20chair%20surprize&f=false

My dyslexia kicked in - it should have ben "Revealed"

Anyone who knows Mt. Hood stories knows about this little prank. http://www.oregonlive.com/outdoors/index.ssf/2012/01/a_quirkly_little_mystery_from.html

Way OT but when I first glanced at the title I thought it said "goats and dreams" and thought what the hell?? Okay my goal ... get my eyes checked again obviously my bifocals are not working. Oh and may be climb some thing classic like the Chouinard-Becky or Liberty Bell.

FWIW ... when soloing big I tend to avoid routes with cracks. There are several such routes on Rainier. Of course the one time when in South American when climbing solo at over 6000m I went across a bridge on my ascent that promptly collapsed after I crossed it. My first thought was not shit that was close but shit how am I going to get around the crack on the descent (by crossing a equalling crappy bridge).

The conventional reason one starts early in the morning is because: 1a) The snow gets sloppy as the day progresses. The classic fubar is descending Cooper's Spur on Hood. 1b) Thunder storms. The classic is the Grand Teton lightning strikes. 2) If it takes longer than you think you have more daylight while you are tired versus being in the dark and tired. 3) Weekend warrior - get to high camp Saturday, summit on Sunday, descend, and drive home. 4) If on a heavily used guided route - to get in front of the guides. For me personally, the last decade plus for Rainier trips (Curtis, Ptarmigan, Mowich, Willis, DC, Kautz, Furher) I would say our earliest start was about 3am (DC from Ing. Flats) and our latest 6am (Kautz). Last summer we were lucky to roll out of the tent by 6am during our tour de force week long trips up Rainier, Adams, and Hood. It worked out fine for us but we knew what we were getting ourselves into.

The Laser is thinner than the Titan so better sticks in some ice. Otherwise they are the same albeit the tip shape. The Fusion has more teeth. Me I would just get the Titan and file to get the point I want then go bang them around on the ice.