ScaredSilly

Yes, sounds like they holed him up in the shrund before continuing on. The last report posted is not very encouraging.

More on CNN: http://www.cnn.com/2011/US/06/14/missing.climber/index.html?hpt=hp_t2

Finding gas will not be a problem. Snell's is probably the most frequented shop. Bring both your tools, leave the long ax at home. Instead bring a ski pole. One of the most popular excursions is the Chéré Couloir on Mt. Blanc Du Tacul. A nice little WI3 that now a days gets the shit beat out it. But if you want to do the Triple Cols it is a nice little warm up / acclimatization route. In fact, that is what I did, climbed the Chéré one morning after riding the telépherique up, relax that afternoon and when took a walk over to Mont Blanc the next morning.

Fly to Geneve take a shuttle bus to Cham. Leaves from the airport and dumps you off where you want in Cham. For a partner, goto the guides office and put a note in the book. I soloed the triple cols route years ago in late June and found the route not technically hard just a long day up high. The alps did not have much snow this winter and the spring was warm. As such, cracks and shrunds are open.

Thanks for the link on the weather station. Air if you are jonsing to get on Adams check out the west side. The Pinnacle Headway is a nice route. We did it last year from the Riley Trail. And it has reasonable access.

Dogs are fine, keep them on a leash and keep them quiet. May can be great or it can be the shits. Right now probably the shits as it has been very rainy in this part of the hood. As for routes, move around. Bread loaves can be very crowded.

Looks like a really bad case of genital warts with a bit of rash thrown in. Hope you brought good protection.

People have been climbing Hood and the rest of the Cascade peaks sans helmets way longer than you or the rest of us on this here spray forum could wipe yer azz. Get over it. BTW Not saying that it ain't a good idea but it is a choice. Unless someone is in immediate danger it is best to walk away with yer trap shut. If the person appears to be a beginner the best approach is to ask a question about what their up to. But even then it might not be taken well.

Interesting statement from REI. Very well crafted. What I suspect is that this case may be the first to test WA's law in this area (a private label and who is ultimately responsible). As such, the insurance company which will be the one who will ultimately pay are the ones pushing the issue. This case, IMHO seems no different that someone who sues Boeing over a plane crash. Boeing subs out many many parts. Boeing takes the hit and then goes after the sub. REI will probably have to do the same. Unfortunate, especially given that Monika has since died.

Uh, which mountain? There is more than one in Cascades.

An economy is fine, as said drive slow, use the berm, and watch out for hookers (they like to pull a trick once in a while).

If a local library wants them - consider donating them. I did that with my rag collection.

For ceiling info call for airport weather.

You can use copyrighted music - just need to pay royalties .

Good camera work but, ditto, on the music. I quit watching because it. IMHO many of todays outdoor videos are ruined by music that appeals to only a very small segment of climbers, skiers, mtn. bikers, etc. I am not into the grunge music, hard rock, or what ever it is called. For right moment in a video it is fine, but not for the whole video.

If you have done the courses you list above that is more than most who try and climb Hood. Most accidents unrelated to weather on the south side are due to a fall - typically rope teams that can not self arrest and ultimately fall into the bergshrund. That can often be avoided - especially as most are using the old chute. Those related to weather are more problematic - if the weather looks like crap do not try and climb.

Bad ending: http://www.katu.com/news/local/121585699.html RM: It was a party of four skiers/climbers. They may or may not have had gear to haul someone out who was only slightly injured. My guess they were unroped and the skier went in hard and obviously had considerable injuries. At that point additional help would be necessary.

I would suggest that you skip staying in Portland your first night, bring all the food and gear you need for Hood, and drive to either Gov. Camp or Timberline for the night and start getting some acclimation. That will give you an extra day. You can stop in the town of Hood River for more food which is on the way to Adams. As for Hood, many, many people climb the south side unroped. With the Old Chute there is not a problem with bergshrund which is what causes problems for the Hogsback. If fact for that time of year, if a weekend, and good weather there will be hords of people in various stages bumbling their way up the hill. I would probably skip the slog to Muir. It really is not all that great. I would suggest something like running up MSH (if you can get a !@#$% permit). That will save you a bit of driving.

You are correct about the time factor. Sunshine would be quicker. We actually thought about that last July after doing the North face Gully. But with the number of cracks we decided coming around via Newton Clack would be safer. Early season when colder and more snow Sunshine would probably be a good choice. One gets clear views from the approach However, in the fall it gets some good steep icy sections as well.

Possible but the Sunshine would be preferred then crossing the Elliot lower down. Of course then it is late afternoon and one has to deal with a fair number of cracks. Also the Sunshine can have some avy potential as well. Oh yeah, that was the time, mass assaults with long staffs. When I was on the route in the early 90s I found some of that old fixed line. It was 1" twisted hemp. I pulled a few pieces out of the ice and watched them slither down the slope and drop on to the Elliot. I wish I would have kept a chunk of the rope.

I do not think the PNW has had it's spring warm up. As such, I would be leery of the headwall until that happens or at least a series of good freeze thaw cycles, so to get stable and consolidated snow conditions. As such, having a Plan B would be have another route and climbing itineraries in mind. Especially as the weather in May can be all over the place.

I would say that it is the finial 800 feet -1000 feet that are the most dangerous as the left side of the spur blends into the rock. At that point, to stay on snow one is forced on to the right side of the spur which puts one into the fall line of the Elliot Glacier. I soloed the route in October and it was hard snow and ice so was forced right sooner than one would be in the spring. I suppose one could belay the upper sections but I would be more tempted to take a bunch of pickets so that the group could keep moving - thus removing the need to belay or at least not stop and exchange gear as often. When we did the North Face Gully last July we found we could get pickets in reasonably well and typically put one in each rope length or so.

Pickets, would be your best choice. The biggest issue with going up that route with a couple of newbie's is that you are going to want to use pickets frequently - otherwise you might as well just solo. You are correct the upper part is steep but the fall line is the concern. However, you can hedge your bets a bit by sticking to the climber's left for as long as possible. At least there the run out is a bit better than on the right side of the spur. Also for descending consider going down the south side and traversing around the hill or descending to T-line and shuttle back. BTW - Last year the road to Cloud Cap did not open until 1 July.

Getting way OT but speaking with limited participation at a trial, a jury does not (rarely) get the "whole story" either. As for Loretan, et al. They pushed a frontier like Messner and others. Some of those frontiers have yet to have been repeated. That says a lot. And like all of us we are not infallible, we are human, we make mistakes. Mistakes that we live with forever, whether living or dead.

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