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About theoak

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  • Birthday 11/26/2017


  • Location
    CT, USA
  1. Mt Adams South Climb is Open!

    Snowshoes aren't a necessity... I need them though, as I weigh 260. The MSR Denalis are nice because they have that elevator bar for the ascent, which takes a lot of strain off your calves. The snow was pretty firm before 11am, after that it was pretty soft.
  2. Mt Adams South Climb is Open!

    I was up there today. Beautiful weather, but winds of 50+ mph past Piker's peak. There were lots of skiers on the mountain. The route is pretty well packed, but it still softened up around noon. I'm glad I brought snowshoes for lower on the mountain. The road in wasn't too bad, just rutted in places. You could get a car up there, but I felt better using an SUV. I'll post a trip report later...
  3. Mt Hood

    I'm big for a climber at 260lbs, and I end up postholing most of the time. I was watching the 150lb climbers with envy as they marched up the mountain like Legolas.
  4. Mt Hood

    I was supposed to climb the 6th with Timberline Mtn Guides as a private trip, but I missed my flight to Portland. I called them right away @ 4pm local time, but they said no refund or credit on my $500 fee. So I decided to solo the south side today. I left the lodge at 2am and slogged up. I should have worn my MSR Denalis because I was post holing up to my knees as soon as I left the snowcat path. It was really windy, and the mountain clouded up after sunrise. I made it to just below crater rock when someone who was descending said there was significant ice fall today. The combination of wind, clouds, post holing, and ice fall convinced me to turn around. I also met a 60 year old climber who summitted wearing Levis Jeans, leather hiking boots, flexible crampons, and a long wooden ice axe. I should have soloed in the first place. Next time I'll just leave a little earlier and bring snowshoes.
  5. Mt Adams South Climb is Open!

    From the post on the other forum, it sounds like an SUV is necessary, although someone did make it up with a Corolla as well. I made it to the trailhead in an Impala last year, but I may have to suck it up and rent an SUV this year. An extra 5 mile hike through mud while wearing a pack wouldn't be fun, and I don't want to trash a rental car with the potholes.
  6. Mt Adams South Climb is Open!

    How's the road on the way in? The USFS website says you need a vehicle with high clearance. I was planning on taking a car to the trailhead, however I could get an SUV if it's necessary.
  7. Mt Hood

    Thanks. I thought the G14s would be overkill, so I'll just bring my Sabertooths.
  8. I'm climbing MT Hood 6/06 as a private climb with TMG, after which I was going to climb the south side of Mt Adams on 6/07-6/08. If anyone is interested in joining me on either climb send me a PM. I'm far from an expert, but I have been to Alaska twice with AAI, and I have done quite a bit of ice climbing and winter hiking/camping in New Hampshire and the Adirondacks.
  9. Mt Adams South Climb is Open!

    I'm heading up there this weekend. Does anyone have GPS coordinates (UTM) for the south side winter route (Sukdorf Ridge)? Also, I was up there last June and wish I had brought snowshoes, as I was postholing past the lunch counter. Is that pretty much the same every year? If so, is there anywhere near Hood River or Trout Lake to rent snowshoes? I wanted to avoid having to pack my MSR Denalis.
  10. Mt Hood

    I'm going to try the south side on 6/06 and I wanted to ask what route is better this year: the Old Chute or the Pearly Gates? I also had some gear questions: Should I bring a 2nd tool? I also have Grivel G14s and BD Sabertooths, which ones would be better for the south side? (I use the G14s for ice climbing, so I don't want to beat them up if I don't need them).
  11. I'm probably going to do the southside of Hood solo. If I feel I'm over my head, or if the weather turns bad, I'll turn back at the Hogsback. I'm more worried about other people falling into me (if it's crowded) then I am about falling myself. I'm also thinking of doing the trip in reverse order: Muir on Rainier first, then Adams, then Hood. That way I have time to get acclimated before Hood (I'm assuming the hike to Muir + MT Adams are easier) and I don't have a long drive back to Portland on the last day. Does my choice of mountains seem good (if you had to choose 3 solo snow climbs in OR/WA with the best views)?
  12. That was my reason for including a hike to Muir...I wanted to get a sense of the mountain before a come back next year. Should I consider doing the southside of Hood solo? I don't want to pay $475 for a guide if it's not necessary. What I meant by "mountaineering experience" was that I wanted to do some snow climbs rather than hiking through scree fields.
  13. Is anything in Portland worth seeing? I was going to spend the morning on day 2 in Portland before heading out to Hood. Perhaps I will head straight to the Timberline Lodge instead. Is it safe to climb the south side of Hood solo? I thought the Hogsback was popular, and I was going to hire a guide because I have read about accidents/deaths on that route. I'm with patrickcraft: I don't have friends that do any mountaineering, and a mountain is not worth risking my life, especially having a 3 year old daughter. I have done two 8 day mountaineering courses in Alaska with AAI, as well as ice climbing and winter hiking/mountaineering in NH and the Adirondacks. I'm not looking to do anything technically challenging this year, I just want to climb 3 easier routes, yet still have a mountaineering experience. I was going to ask if hiking up to Muir was worthwhile. Is Mount Saint Helens a better non-technical climb? Are MSH permits that hard to get? I wanted to at least see Rainier this year, and I'm considering coming back next year to do the Kautz Route with AAI. Are there any other worthwhile mountains that I can climb solo in a day? Also: Should I hold off until July for better weather?
  14. I am planning a week-long trip to Oregon / Washington sometime in June or July, and I was hoping to do the following: Day 1: Arrive, stay at a hotel in Portland. Day 2: Pick up any climbing gear/food. Drive to MT Hood. Day 3: Meet a guide from Timberline Guides at $475 a day. Climb the Southern Route / Pearly Gates (I didn't want to try Hood solo). Is Timberline a good guide service? Are there any good campsites or hotels near Hood? Day 4: Recover / drive to MT Adams. Day 5: Start at 5am and climb the South Spur on MT Adams solo. Are there any good campsites or hotels near Adams? Day 6: Recover / drive to Paradise at MT Rainier. Day 7: Start at 5am and climb to Camp Muir on Rainier. Return to hotel in Portland. Is that realistic to drive back to Portland after climbing to Camp Muir and back in a day? Can I climb to Muir without a permit? I plan on coming back next year and climbing the Kautz Route with a group, but I just wanted to get on the mountain while I'm out there this year. Day 8: Fly out. Does that sound like a realistic trip? Any advice or recommendations?
  15. Hood - Hogsback / Adams - South Spur

    Bergfex, I would like to climb with you, but I'm going to be there July 6-10. I'm going to attempt the South Spur of Adams and the Hogsback on Hood solo if I don't find a partner. I'm assuming there is no crevasse hazard on either route? Where do I get permits for both climbs?