ScaredSilly

There are lots of boots out on the market now that are great all round single boots. My preference is for boots that have an integral gaiter, like the Scarpa Phantom series or the Sportiva Baltura. What size are looking for ? I am selling a pair of Scarpa Phantom Lites.

Bump ... price includes shipping and money transfer fees.

Nice. Hopefully, there will be some publicity on such projects. Yes, they try to do take the photos at the same approximate time frame. Usually within weeks if the dates are known. Other wise a best guess.

Was asked about sizing ... they run a bit small.

These were actually called Phantom Lites when they came out.

I am selling my Scarpa Phantom Guides size 45 (11-11.5) as I have down sized to a smaller size. These are the previous version and were used for two seasons. They are in great shape with no nicks, cuts, etc. I wear a street shoe size of 10 and wear a thick wool sock in these and have plenty of toe room. Asking $325. Photos coming soon.

Second ascent of the West Buttress: Some great history and humor.

Nice photos but did ya get any frequent flyer miles?

IMHO if one wants to avoid the lower part of the glacier and get directly to the business of the headwall with out a lot of traversing I would suggest doing a route that deposits you at the Queen's Chair. Which is pretty much includes almost every route from Leuthold's Couloir over to Cathedral Ridge with Leuthold's Couloir being the most direct. From the Queen's Chair you can access the headwall pretty easily with some very straight forward traversing. Some folks did that last year to do both the original headwall finish as well as the variation which oddly enough does the opposite of what you are thinking. In that they gained the col from the Elliot Glacier and then continued up the North Face. From the glacier to col is about 100 meters of climbing.

From the col one would need to drop down a bit to get around the upper buttress across from the col and then traverse right. That would put one approximately 2/5 up the headwall The original finish to the headwall would then be up and further right. There are other variations.

I am not sure writing has anything to do with it. While some were writing others were being written about. When I first thought about the list I tired to think about in 10-15 year increments over the past 40 years as originally stated (not 50 years as stated above). My first thought was Lowe, as in George, Jeff, and Alex. But upon reflection I started thinking about Beckey, Chouinard, and Twight. Certainly in the modern era Mark has had influence because of his writing. However, others did similar ascents just did not feel the need to pontificate as much. That said Mark's most recent comments are 35 years late and are quite trite. If he had written it a year ago most folks would go meh. Messner argued quite successfully about climbing via fair means some 35 years ago. The only reason anybody is thinking about the whole cheating issue is because of Armstrong's confession. So Mark's comments are really nothing more than a piggy back ride from the cycling world to the alpinism world (pun intended). So that from that respect nothing to see, time to move along.

Climbing at altitude causes blood doping. You are all a bunch frickin cheaters.

Epoxy is brittle - patch it with ShoeGoo.

As said springs if made properly will last a very long time. Think about clocks. it take a huge number of cycles for a spring to fatigue especially when they are kept well within the elastic limits. For the OP I have binding that are probably as old. Not dynafits but others. Have them checked out for signs of corrosion/rust and then grease them up.

Slightly OT but Plaidman conditions here in Oootah are shit unless you want to play Roulette. http://utahavalanchecenter.org/avalanches/avalanche-provo-canyon-1 The Fang as well as the rest of the climbs up canyon from Stairway are death traps.

Damn, that is a lot of pictures. A few more and you could splice them together to make a movie ;-). I have always like that side of the hill, especially if one take the time to hang out at the Queen'c Chair. A perfect place for a picnic before heading to the summit follies.

My wife is going to cry when I tell her my lycra is back in style. Dane you going to be in SLC for OR? If so send me a note as the ice is in.

Your best bet would be to head to Zion National Park area. Lots of good stuff to keep you entertained. I have never used a guide for canyoneering as I have managed to keep the nonsense level high enough. That said send Tom a note: http://www.canyoneeringusa.com He can point you in the right direction. Though be advised that there is no guiding within ZIon National Park proper. However, there are a few canyons inside the park like the Subway, Key Hole, and Pine Creek that can be done guideless without dying though that has not stopped many.

Typically a group can assemble on National Forest lands and not need a permit when group size is below 75 people.

http://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/willamette/recreation/wintersports/?cid=stelprdb5109521&width=full#fuji

It is not necessary that a rescuer or litter be involved. Merely that the rescued be picked up and not be brought into the helicopter. Speaking from experience it is a fun albeit short ride

Not surprisingly Alt. 3 was chosen. However, no crushed rock will be imported. Hello - please see the attached letter from Randy King announcing the issuance of the Finding of No Significant Impact for the Camp Muir Rehabilitation Plan Environmental Assessment. The EA, Errata and FONSI may be downloaded directly at: http://parkplanning.nps.gov/muirea Thank you for the time you took to comment on the EA - your participation in the planning of activities at the park is appreciated! FWIW I am not surprised that Alt 3. was chosen however a few of the reasons behind it leave it a lot to be desired.

As note in the other thread I did not get out as much as I would have like so fewer success and even fewer failures but this one had the potential: Left Timberline headed for Illumination Rock for the night. Midway up the Magic Mile my partner starts to fad. Sure it is already dark and windy but we had hardly got going. He admits to staying up drinking until 3am the night before. So we bivy under the lift. At day break we wake up to the sound of a cat coming by then the lift starting up - we hustle out of there cause it is one thing to be caught by a cat drive but not making it up to the top of the lift before the skiers come by is another.

Though only climbing related, I should have added these but forgot as both were last Jan. 4. Hanging at my house with Fred Beckey and friends who did several of the FA with Fred that made it into his book. 5. Chatting with Reinhold Messner.