ScaredSilly

If the group size was really 70 people I would say that the Park should be looking at group size limits. Even if they split up that is huge number of people coming. BITD when running classes for the ODP we limited our numbers to 20 people. Usually had less, except when we ran a trip to some hot springs.

It is not super technical at all. Even late season when it gets icy as it is often sun cupped. IMHO many make it a bigger deal than it is. Take a single tool and a couple three screws. Carrying up and over is also the way to go.

Something to schlep with you on your next trip: http://spectrum.ieee.org/automaton/robotics/aerial-robots/sensefly-and-drone-adventures-toss-uavs-off-the-summit-of-the-matterhorn/?utm_source=roboticsnews&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=101513

I climbed Cooper's Spur one October. Fine conditions as it had snowed just enough to freeze everything into place. I left around 4am topped around noon and back at the car around 4pm. Mind you I did not descend the spur but came down the SS and walked back around. Conditions on the hill were very firm and icy. New snow can make conditions tricky as the snow may be just firm enough to walk on but you could be skating on the ice underneath very quickly. So perhaps the biggest issue would to have good cramponing technique along with the ability to self arrest.

If ya want a Bibler with two doors with all the options : http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1110500/Re_Bibler_2_Door_I_Tent_w_vest

I have one of these as a 100 m bicolored roped that PMI made for me. It is a great rope and is rated as a half/twin. I'd buy another.

I wear around a 9 size in street shoes. But I wear a really thick wool sock as such my Scarpa boots are in the 44.5-45 range. I like lots of toe wiggle room cause toes can swell at altitude. Which is tight beside getting hammer toes leads to frostbite. BTW I have a pair 45 Scarpa Phantom Guides for sale.

It is interesting to hear of comments regarding June weather. While I would agree it can be hit or miss do not let it discourage you if that is your window. In July I have had great wether but also walked up to Muir in a piss out (had it clear two days later). I have tried more often in May and been weathered out yet all four trips in June were successful as were all my July trips. By successful I do not mean blue bird weather throughout. Several summits have been in white outs. That said July has been nice weather for summit just the start of one sucked. But by July the DC can be a pretty beat out cattle trail with not much in terms of mountain experience - but makes for a quick out.

It is pretty easy to get from SeaTac to Paradise in the same day when flying in. There is an REI in Tukwila which is next to SeaTac where you can pick up fuel. From there drive into the park or bivy along the way (can find a descent breakfast in Asford). Take a leisurely day to hike to Muir. I would highly suggest not trying to summit the next day as you will have hardly acclimated. Instead get up late, enjoy breakfast, and then head up to the Ingraham Flats. Bivy there, then get up for the summit. It makes for a more enjoyable day and you will have more acclimation. As for leaving your camp - it has been a long time since I have left a camp on Rainier but I always drop the tent. As said, many have come back to no tent and had to go crevasse diving to find it. You do not really need avy beacon on Rainier. As said, if you get hit with an avy you are going to have bigger issues. As for hotels there are bunch elcheapo ones right by the airport. Most have shuttles.

Looking over that list I would say that the gear recommended is more suited to Denali than Aconcagua. Unless you are person who gets cold easily I would go with slightly lighter weight gear. Especially as it will have more functional use on other trips. For instance, I never took down pants. I may have taken a down jack but do not remember using it (I would still take one). My sleeping bag was a 0 F bag (if you are cold wear extra clothes). I took one balaclava. I took gloves not mittens. My boots were some of the early soft flex boots. Today, I might take the Scarpa Phantom 6000 cause the liners can be worn as "bivy boots." 99% of the hike/climb is going to be on a rocky trail so the boots they recommend are going to suck cause they lack flex. BTW get a good pair of trekking poles - you will use them more than an ice axe.

Sorry folks, the linked changed. I tried to find the original but no luck.

Can not compare but I tired them but like the Scarpa Phantom Guides better. So check those out as well.

The Spantiks and P6000 are probably similar with the Spantik a bit warmer. But the P6000 are lighter by 1/2 lbs and less bulky. Which is why I think the P6000 are a better boot. Here is another option for you to think about. Put in a Superfeat insole in your boot. Something like the RedHot. Then wear a thicker sock. You might find after that the PG fit pretty reasonable. That is what I do.

A bump for posterity ...

Got my new Ultras so time to move these make me a reasonable offer and I will consider it.

For what you are listing I would say go back and get a pair of PG that fit. The Spantiks are complete over kill. If yer feet run cold then the 6000 would be a good boot. They are about 1/2" wider. I am current sussing out a pair of the Rebel Ultras which are even skinnier but have similar warmth as the PG. What size of PG did you previously wear? FWIW I have been in various Scarpa boots for some 15 years and really like the direction of their line of boots.

Bummer on the insurance - I have never heard of such of exception with a policy. I hope the agent went through the policy with you to show you the language for that exception. Do not be afraid to push them. That said I just talked to my agent (State Farm) and found that there are renters policy that will only cover only items in an apartment - if something is stollen from the patio/balcony it is not covered at all. State Farm provides coverage world wide. So such policies do exist.

Bummer, I would suggest that you immediately call the credit bureaus and freeze your credit reports. All of them. Not sure what else needs to be done in these cases but the hassle of stollen items will be short term but a stollen ID will last years. So I would worry about that first. It sounds like they used a slim jim on your door. It is not as hard as one would think to use one. Hopefully, you have insurance and can get it all replaced.

Enjoy: http://www.outsidetelevision.com/video/patagonia-day-fred-beckey-dolomites

Was on the White River Glacier and looks to be down from the Kitchen and near where a climber died a couple of years ago in an odd fall. Look like went into a tunnel formed by a crevasse that collapsed http://www.katu.com/news/local/snowboarder-buried-mount-hood-218281261.html http://www.cnn.com/2013/08/04/studentnews/oregon-snowboarder-buried/index.html?hpt=hp_t2

1960s is my guess.

Where someone has already made a tent platform. Where someone has NOT already pissed, dropped towel, or disposed of food waste. The latter is often more difficult to locate than the former.

No, they are still perfectly functional. So someone starting a rack can get a set for cheap. Friends have a back country stash and when guiding if a client can not get one out you can leave it and not be too much cash. The only one that it collectable are the first generation and the ones with a Ti stem.

DPS and I are pretty much on the same page. A piolet will swing quite well. Especially something in the 60cm range (which IMHO the ideal mtneering axe length). But it needs to have bit of head weight. While some of the super light axes are fine for mtn. glacier travel they suck for swinging as they have no head weight and will bounce off ice. Here again is where an old school axe is more functional because the head has some weight behind it. The problem is there seems to be a bit of a gap either super lightweight mtn axe or modern vertical tools being sold today. I would not be hesitant to look on the used market for tools. For instance, here is a pair of first generation Cobras on flea bay: 261251139499 - search for this item number. For the cost for one modern tool you can have a pair. And given the seller is in SC they probably did not get a lot of use. (Disclaimer - I do not know the seller or have any interest in the auction). Regarding climbing competently with one tool. I mean just a single axe using your other hand simply for balance. For instance, on Kautz the icy sections are about 45 degrees and are often sun cupped. So you have places for you feet and not on your front points the whole time. And the angle is not so steep you need a tool for balance. Pickup a copy of Chouinard "Climbing Ice" and take a look at it and the techniques for using a single tool. FWIW here is my combo - General mtneering - 60 cm Chouinard carbon fiber straight shaft - with interchangeable picks (std curve pick). Technical alpine - 50 cm carbon fiber straight shaft black prophets Technical water fall - 50 cm Cobras. I do not use the black prophets as much these days because the Cobra are so nice but I would be hard pressed to give them up. When I did Liberty Ridge BITD I took a 60cm axe plus a 50cm hammer that were the old first generation blue shaft tools from Chouinard.

I meant to add this comment: As for the BD Venom tools - meh. The issue with them is that the hammer would be fine for say Liberty Ridge and you could do water fall ice with them but they are not the best. The modern technical tools are over kill for most alpine climbs. One of nicest all round tool is the first generation Cobra. You can plunge them as well as climb steep ice.