ScaredSilly

The Spantiks and P6000 are probably similar with the Spantik a bit warmer. But the P6000 are lighter by 1/2 lbs and less bulky. Which is why I think the P6000 are a better boot. Here is another option for you to think about. Put in a Superfeat insole in your boot. Something like the RedHot. Then wear a thicker sock. You might find after that the PG fit pretty reasonable. That is what I do.

For what you are listing I would say go back and get a pair of PG that fit. The Spantiks are complete over kill. If yer feet run cold then the 6000 would be a good boot. They are about 1/2" wider. I am current sussing out a pair of the Rebel Ultras which are even skinnier but have similar warmth as the PG. What size of PG did you previously wear? FWIW I have been in various Scarpa boots for some 15 years and really like the direction of their line of boots.

Bummer on the insurance - I have never heard of such of exception with a policy. I hope the agent went through the policy with you to show you the language for that exception. Do not be afraid to push them. That said I just talked to my agent (State Farm) and found that there are renters policy that will only cover only items in an apartment - if something is stollen from the patio/balcony it is not covered at all. State Farm provides coverage world wide. So such policies do exist.

Bummer, I would suggest that you immediately call the credit bureaus and freeze your credit reports. All of them. Not sure what else needs to be done in these cases but the hassle of stollen items will be short term but a stollen ID will last years. So I would worry about that first. It sounds like they used a slim jim on your door. It is not as hard as one would think to use one. Hopefully, you have insurance and can get it all replaced.

Enjoy: http://www.outsidetelevision.com/video/patagonia-day-fred-beckey-dolomites

Was on the White River Glacier and looks to be down from the Kitchen and near where a climber died a couple of years ago in an odd fall. Look like went into a tunnel formed by a crevasse that collapsed http://www.katu.com/news/local/snowboarder-buried-mount-hood-218281261.html http://www.cnn.com/2013/08/04/studentnews/oregon-snowboarder-buried/index.html?hpt=hp_t2

1960s is my guess.

Where someone has already made a tent platform. Where someone has NOT already pissed, dropped towel, or disposed of food waste. The latter is often more difficult to locate than the former.

No, they are still perfectly functional. So someone starting a rack can get a set for cheap. Friends have a back country stash and when guiding if a client can not get one out you can leave it and not be too much cash. The only one that it collectable are the first generation and the ones with a Ti stem.

DPS and I are pretty much on the same page. A piolet will swing quite well. Especially something in the 60cm range (which IMHO the ideal mtneering axe length). But it needs to have bit of head weight. While some of the super light axes are fine for mtn. glacier travel they suck for swinging as they have no head weight and will bounce off ice. Here again is where an old school axe is more functional because the head has some weight behind it. The problem is there seems to be a bit of a gap either super lightweight mtn axe or modern vertical tools being sold today. I would not be hesitant to look on the used market for tools. For instance, here is a pair of first generation Cobras on flea bay: 261251139499 - search for this item number. For the cost for one modern tool you can have a pair. And given the seller is in SC they probably did not get a lot of use. (Disclaimer - I do not know the seller or have any interest in the auction). Regarding climbing competently with one tool. I mean just a single axe using your other hand simply for balance. For instance, on Kautz the icy sections are about 45 degrees and are often sun cupped. So you have places for you feet and not on your front points the whole time. And the angle is not so steep you need a tool for balance. Pickup a copy of Chouinard "Climbing Ice" and take a look at it and the techniques for using a single tool. FWIW here is my combo - General mtneering - 60 cm Chouinard carbon fiber straight shaft - with interchangeable picks (std curve pick). Technical alpine - 50 cm carbon fiber straight shaft black prophets Technical water fall - 50 cm Cobras. I do not use the black prophets as much these days because the Cobra are so nice but I would be hard pressed to give them up. When I did Liberty Ridge BITD I took a 60cm axe plus a 50cm hammer that were the old first generation blue shaft tools from Chouinard.

I meant to add this comment: As for the BD Venom tools - meh. The issue with them is that the hammer would be fine for say Liberty Ridge and you could do water fall ice with them but they are not the best. The modern technical tools are over kill for most alpine climbs. One of nicest all round tool is the first generation Cobra. You can plunge them as well as climb steep ice.

Exactly. So for instance, after you do Kautz and the Finger and want to do Liberty Ridge take a 60cm axe and 50cm hammer (which exactly what I took). Much of the time you will use just 60 cm axe so the longer length will be nice. When you get to the steeper sections and want the hammer whip it out and go. Then when you move over to Ptarmigan, take two tools. With both bring ski poles as that make life much easier on the slog up to high camp.

My suggestion is to get a pair of tools for the steep stuff. If you need a second just take one and use it with your long tool and not worry about if it makes a good match. At some point you will be able to know when to take what - either two tools or just one and none of the mixed and match. Regardless of what tools I do take with me I take a pair of ski poles. Using a ski pole with an ice axe will help with the shuffle if not on hard ice.

Not sure what to think about this article and the implications: http://www.nationalparkstraveler.com/2013/07/mount-rainier-national-park-climbers-need-be-more-self-reliant-park-alters-rescue-techniques23649 I guess one should be ready to fully self-rescue. Should be anyways but perhaps more so.

The Finger will out of condition in August as it is more of an early mid season route. In July it becomes bowling for climbers. The Kautz is a good choice though late in the season it becomes very sun cupped with rotten penitents but a with a good freeze the lower tongue can be ice. Call me old school - but there seems to be a big jump to go to two tools especially on the Kautz. However, there is a lot to be said about learning to competently climbing short easy but icy sections with one tool. Especially on the Kautz where the sections are all of a couple hundred feet and get sun cupped.

By fixed line I assume the old rope we found 5 years ago and left as a rap from the bivy sites. It was better than the other piece of crap rope that was left there. Normally, I would have carried it down rather than leave crap on the hill but we went up and over. Something I recommend to folks as going down the DC is quick. If the two icy sections are sun cupped enough that no pro is required I would suggest leaving the second tool. Should already have a couple of screws for crevasse rescue so take a couple more and practice foot work on steeper sections and set pro when needed. Climbing with one tool and being comfortable on steeper terrain is a real asset (i.e. faster than two tools). While from 2008 here are some photos for ya. http://www.poulinenvironmental.com/poulinenvironmental/Kautz_Glacier_2008.html

Nice, but ya gotta dry feet and fingers out - Yikes!!

I would agree with the two weeks - simply because Anastasia and Oleg have a wee bit more experience on the hill and as such know when to suck it up. Water, very good observation. I read and commented on the other post as well. It got a bit winded so I do not recall the "no lecture" part. But if they do not want it so why post it. These folks seem like they would take the constructive analysis thus posted.

While it was good that you were able to slug it out without any assistance - you really fell victim to what I call visiting climber syndrome - traveling great distances to climb a route that was really out of shape. Changing objectives is often necessary and one needs to have flexibility. Especially, when one is unfamiliar with the hill. Some other points for yourself analysis. Many do not make all the way from White River to the Carbon on their first day. It is a slog. However, if you broke camp at midnight that means up were probably up at least an hour earlier which means perhaps 4 hours of sleep after your first long day with early acclimatization. The too early of a start had you dropping down on to the Carbon in the dark without any chance of scouting a route in the light. And you wasted time energy because of that. Time and energy that could have been used sleeping/recovering. I would disagree with your assessment that losing a day on the Carbon was not unusual. It is unusual. While many under estimate the difficulties they are typically are able to traverse it and still make it to Thumb Rock in a day. They may come in late and may take a rest day there. Or they make the decision to turn around before getting on the ridge. Your bivy on the Carbon was not wise. Serac fall from the Willis Wall happens regularly and fills the basin. You could have literally been blown into crevasse, buried, never to be found. It is here, before you gained the ridge that you really should have made the decision to retreat. If I read correctly it took you 20 hours from the Carbon camp to Thumb Rock. All I can say is yikes!! All in all you got away with it, but the physical conditioning issues and especially the medical issue makes it sound like it was your first ascent at altitude. As Doug Scott once said "Pucky lads a wee bit over their heads"

Jeff loves you and you know it. She just does not know how to show it. Heal well.

Nice !!!

Gentlemen, I would kindly suggest that you contact Stephan Lofgren who is the lead climbing ranger. He needs to hear these concerns.

Thanks for posting it up. From that location one can only assume that the climber went by Leuthold's and around to Sandy Glacier Headwall. The location is in line with someone going up the headwall. Whether he went by Leuthod's on accident* or on purpose we will never know. Either way sad outcome. *one does not necessarily need to have bad weather to mistake the line of ascent.

The question is will be where on the Sandy Glacier was he found. Certainly possible he fell along the traverse. Also remember gear can go flying during a fall. Which couloir are you speaking about? Luethold, Yokum Ridge, Sandy Glacier Headwall, and Cathedral Ridge all meet up at the Queen's Chair. Regardless, bummer to hear about the accident.

Nice!!!