ScaredSilly

Nice to see some winter adverturing. Looks pretty firm.

If you need a copy of Jeff's book, currently there is a copy down at Powel's book.

Nice photos - really liked the inside the hut photo.

Good on ya, I think it is fitting that the last thing one does with a parent is something illegal. My wife did the same with her father. Just do not tell friends you hucked yer mom off the north side of Mt. Hood they might not appreciate the (black) humor.

I guess I should clarify. When I pre-rig there is no chance that there will any load placed on the rope. But your point is well taken.

Pre-rig it. Much better than screwing around with having to do it once yer in the hole. The same for prusiks or tribloc.

Nice, nothing like going up to go down, then up and down again.

I think 2008 around mid July I remember penitentes like that right above the cleaver on the DC. On that same trip we had planned to camp on the summit and for giggles explore the stream vents. Even though we left Camp Hazard late by most people's standard (6am), wandered over to Point Success then wandered over Columbia Crest it was noon. Way too much time so we headed down and hit up Gaitor for dinner and drinks. Personally I like having the cattle track down, it means one can do a hard route hit the summit perhaps a bit late and boogie down. That said multiple times I have it sat out near the summit while it pissed sideways.

Damn, I am impressed for a guess.

I am sitting here enjoying my day off writing comments for year around resorts on Forest Service managed lands: https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2013/10/02/2013-23998/proposed-directive-for-additional-seasonal-or-year-round-recreation-activities-at-ski-areas#h-18 There is an interesting bit in 2343.11—Policy (Ski Areas) Proposed Paragraph 4 to allow for charging for improvements made by a resort. The implication is that if you are skinning up a groomed trail you could be charged for it. I thought about the implications for skinning up the South of Hood regardless of the time of day. Of course then there is the descent as well. Folks might want to think about this aspects. It is problematic for Hood as that is the only reasonable access point but it could lead to access issues.

Thanks for that ... I have not been to Smith for a very long time.

Remember ya gotta schlep all that crap around. IMHO if you want to climb forget about Norway and pick place in western Europe.

What do you want to climb? Norway in May is not the warmest, the Alps will be in snow as well the Dolomites. May I would be heading to southern France Bouix, Verdon, La Turbie, or southern Italy Finali, or into Spain.

Very nice ... always fun to go out with the old guard.

As said above the phrase refers to commercial structures. There have been some interesting law suits over what is a permanent structure. For instance, yurts can be set up during the winter season. However, not only must they be taken down in the spring but they must be removed from the wilderness area. In the past some land managers allowed the yurt flooring to left not in place but taken up but left in wilderness. Law suits followed and the FS lost.

If the group size was really 70 people I would say that the Park should be looking at group size limits. Even if they split up that is huge number of people coming. BITD when running classes for the ODP we limited our numbers to 20 people. Usually had less, except when we ran a trip to some hot springs.

It is not super technical at all. Even late season when it gets icy as it is often sun cupped. IMHO many make it a bigger deal than it is. Take a single tool and a couple three screws. Carrying up and over is also the way to go.

Something to schlep with you on your next trip: http://spectrum.ieee.org/automaton/robotics/aerial-robots/sensefly-and-drone-adventures-toss-uavs-off-the-summit-of-the-matterhorn/?utm_source=roboticsnews&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=101513

I climbed Cooper's Spur one October. Fine conditions as it had snowed just enough to freeze everything into place. I left around 4am topped around noon and back at the car around 4pm. Mind you I did not descend the spur but came down the SS and walked back around. Conditions on the hill were very firm and icy. New snow can make conditions tricky as the snow may be just firm enough to walk on but you could be skating on the ice underneath very quickly. So perhaps the biggest issue would to have good cramponing technique along with the ability to self arrest.

I have one of these as a 100 m bicolored roped that PMI made for me. It is a great rope and is rated as a half/twin. I'd buy another.

I wear around a 9 size in street shoes. But I wear a really thick wool sock as such my Scarpa boots are in the 44.5-45 range. I like lots of toe wiggle room cause toes can swell at altitude. Which is tight beside getting hammer toes leads to frostbite. BTW I have a pair 45 Scarpa Phantom Guides for sale.

It is interesting to hear of comments regarding June weather. While I would agree it can be hit or miss do not let it discourage you if that is your window. In July I have had great wether but also walked up to Muir in a piss out (had it clear two days later). I have tried more often in May and been weathered out yet all four trips in June were successful as were all my July trips. By successful I do not mean blue bird weather throughout. Several summits have been in white outs. That said July has been nice weather for summit just the start of one sucked. But by July the DC can be a pretty beat out cattle trail with not much in terms of mountain experience - but makes for a quick out.

It is pretty easy to get from SeaTac to Paradise in the same day when flying in. There is an REI in Tukwila which is next to SeaTac where you can pick up fuel. From there drive into the park or bivy along the way (can find a descent breakfast in Asford). Take a leisurely day to hike to Muir. I would highly suggest not trying to summit the next day as you will have hardly acclimated. Instead get up late, enjoy breakfast, and then head up to the Ingraham Flats. Bivy there, then get up for the summit. It makes for a more enjoyable day and you will have more acclimation. As for leaving your camp - it has been a long time since I have left a camp on Rainier but I always drop the tent. As said, many have come back to no tent and had to go crevasse diving to find it. You do not really need avy beacon on Rainier. As said, if you get hit with an avy you are going to have bigger issues. As for hotels there are bunch elcheapo ones right by the airport. Most have shuttles.

Sorry folks, the linked changed. I tried to find the original but no luck.

Can not compare but I tired them but like the Scarpa Phantom Guides better. So check those out as well.