ScaredSilly

Damn Lowell, I am terribly sorry to hear of the news. My best to you and your families. Allen

Bad idea unless you like vertical scree.

Not a bad piece as the hill should be called Denali. As for the Rainier vs Tahoma. IMHO that issue is quite different than the Denali vs McKinley issue. McKinley got named for political reasons which continue today.

Most go over the Wapowty Cleaver to the Nisqually because that is the more direct way to Columbia Crest. Going up of the left side of the cleaver is good but suffers from sun cupping perhaps more so than the Nisqually which can have more cracks. However, one can then bag Point Success. Probably the least visited of the three summits.

That boot track to/from saddle could well have come climbers coming off Liberty Cap. Many skip the main summit and head down the Emmons.

Yikes ... conditions look terrible. Bowling for climbers.

Best news story: http://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/search-missing-mount-rainier-climber-kyle-bufis-suspended-after-body-n374916

And on that note ... The DC is a fucking cattle trail. If you can not follow it you should not be on the hill.

Hilarious form and function. The caption for this image should be changed from: "De-burring the edges with sand-paper." https://ksr-ugc.imgix.net/assets/003/885/817/ca7bcf82a92b98719ac7e994e0578497_original.jpg?v=1432931585&w=680&h=&fit=max&auto=format&q=92&s=5a18c05eac50404529f28f35297a77c6 To: "Polishing the knob for smooth action." I am sure there are more puns to cum. Yuk, yuk.

Ya know why they are called screamer suits? Cause yer gonna scream like a little girl when they lift ya off.

The permits are not limited but camping at Muir is limited regardless.

Nice, looks like great conditions. How did you descend??

Better late than never but I bought a copy of da book today (My local shop did not stock it). Quite the tome and nicely done. Great photos and text. Like others I did find a few errors and omissions. The FA information is out of place on pages: 69, 145, 149, 155, and 162. Typically the FA is listed after the approach notes. For the above it is listed first. The ordering should be consistent. The labels are sometimes after the route name (page 75) sometimes before (page 92): "Devil's Kitchen Variation 1 (4a)" vs "(7a) Regular Route" they should be consistent. The latter "(number) name" is better. The route on the Newton Clark Headwall is missing (to the right of Wy'East). The FA information for Illumination Rock is missing except for the true FA. There is a variation on the Reid Headwall that many have done and I think is worth noting that comes off of 8a. I'll post up a picture later. The routes/variations for the Coe and Ladd Glaciers and Puplit Rock are absent. And as Wayne noted the Castle Crags routes are missing. For clarity on page 150 labels for Elliot Headwall Routes 14d and 14e should be present. The original Elliot Head Wall route on page 153 is listed as 17e it should be 14e. For the FA information on the Elliot Headwall I would suggest that the format style for the Devil's Kitchen Headwall is used (with the number first though). That is the FA information is not listed in the opening page on 149 but with the FA for each of the variations listed accordingly. (14a) Pencil FA: Unclimbed Description (14b) Cathedral Ramp FA: Unclimbed Description (14c) The Ravine FA: Dave Bohn, Art Maki, and Al Combs 1958 (Musiyeko, Blagoveshchenskaya modern ascent 2012) Description (14d) Center Cirque Direct FA: Wayne Wallace and Tim Olsen 1989 Description (14e) Right Cirque FA: Russ McJury and Joe Leuthold 1938 Description I would drop the the note (variation #7 in Oregon High) on page 153. JT's book is not mentioned elsewhere so it is out of context. Last but not least of the picture of me on page 165 is not Copper Spur but the finish for the North Face Gully.

I had just come off 5 days or so on the Owyhee River. Eastern Oregon never saw any aspects of the eruption as the plum was to the north. Had traces later in the summer after a rain storm.

Depends on the year … typically the finger becomes a bowling alley before the upper part becomes impassible.

Climbers?? All the press reports I have read said they were hikers. When it comes to Everest I think the press has it correct for once. When earthquakes hit SE Asia the destruction will always be grave because so much of the building is unreinforced brick and concrete. And of course those same countries typically have poor infrastructure. Those in the remote areas will see little assistance as the immediate focus will be in Katmandu. It will be a grim spring for many ...

I think the main observation here is that the tests show the knot being cross loaded. While possible that is rarely how the loads are applied. Further, when the knots came undone it was hard to tell which end pulled through. Again not how the knot is used. As such, while worth noting, the tests are not really a reflection of what happens in practice. Pit Schubert and the DAV did knot tests years ago that were much more realistic.

Rap stations?? I know of none except on the summit block. As for the descent, I have done the Mill Creek / Russell Glacier shuffle twice. The Milk Creek can be bit of shit show when soggy. The Russell however is rather pleasant. As Ben said Whitewater is a long ass walk around to the park.

Well stated and my feeling as well , KISS principle. I have PLB that is for when shit happens. When craps occurs I dealt with it. But as you say that doesn't work for some. Regardless, though one should never be dependent on technology to bail their sorry ass or carcass out.

I agree during a lower snow year and a weather window we walked the Carbon Road in March and while it added a 2-3 hours the rest of the trail walking was the bigger issue.

When using pitons remember, the rock, like a good woman, can only take the occasional pounding. Rex Green - author of Wasatch Granite.

For the climber who wants to boast and toast. Mt. Hood Glassware: http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_eye/2015/02/06/the_oregon_pint_from_north_drinkware_is_a_craft_beer_glass_that_features.html

diejp if you did RH you would not be near Queen's Chair. Queen's Chair is under the horizontal part of the arrow. The tip of the arrow is really part of Leutholds and a more direct finish to the ridge. One can traverse off the Reid to get there which sounds like what that party did. As for going straight up from 3 it does get done but one heads up right from 6 to the right of 7 and continues up to the right of 9. It is lots of rime ice, exposed, and not always straightforward. Good fun some folks followed me up that a couple of years ago. One can also go up from 4 to West Crater Rim basically following the runnel up. Lots of variations up there to get ya all funked up.

Nice job on getting up there in the winter. Not many folks visit Jeffereson then. When dealing with rime you are correct two tools are helpful. Especially, as the last bit is pretty steep. Sometimes you might be plunging your tools, other times swinging them. Rime is probably one of the harder mediums to climb. As for pro - while we got a few marginal screws in I used my ski poles as a picket. Not recommended but we thought there would be better ice so we left the pickets at home.

http://www.kgw.com/story/news/2015/01/31/three-climbers-fall-on-mount-hood/22653161/