ScaredSilly

I am not sure how anyone would deadman a whippet unless the same way one can dead man a picket (bury it in a trench horizontally) If I needed to use a whippet like a specter a well slung sling would work sans any drilling. One could potentially need not hammer it by making a hole in the ice with their axe pick first. Just need to be creative and realize that what ever done is probably more psychological than physical.

This summer on the summit pinnacle of Jefferson I used my ski poles doubled up with sling around them as picket. Not something I would recommend but screws were crap and no rock pro. So better than nothing.

The super light weight axe do not have the head weight for a good swing into hard ice. Which for the "ice" ramp on the Kautz is something one wants. For the rest of the route it would be fine. Regardless of what tool(s) I have I use trekking poles. Never used whippets as once I get to a place that I might need to arrest I pull my axe out. That said poles regardless of what is on the grip make a huge difference on lower angle terrain. I have used a pole and shorter axe on stuff like Luethold's.

The Kautz Glacier route is a good example where people take two tools when one is really needed. Sure it makes the "ice" chute easier and for some more secure but then for the rest of the route one has a short worthless tool. When I have brought this point up before people have said they just do not get out enough to practice?? I have never understood that viewpoint because one can learn by just doing it (on the climb experience). That said I will agree that the ice axe offerings from the major mfg are fine for ski mtneering and general mtneering but are not something for a route like the Kautz. BD and Petzl have their "update" slightly curved tool that one could use. But then I guess people think if buying a curved tool might as well buy two tools. If you can find a 60cm old school axe like BD Carbon axe - I'd say buy it.

Just remember a cornice is a result of wind so the area just below it is going to be wind loaded. Getting through a cornice is pretty much as folks have said start digging ...

Really just another hyped BS article about convoluted FA. A bit of history in 1988 Vern Tejas made the first successful solo winter ascent/descent. In 1984 Uemura made the summit solo in during the winter of 1984 but died on the descent. Dupre's ascent was in Dec/Jan but it is still winter. In the big scheme of things of firsts - there was none. In terms of being out there doing it something that takes all efforts - props.

I have been using the SuperFeet RedHots. BITD I used thick felt wool liners. I think the bigger difference is the sock - dachstein socks are great. It also helps to dry your feet and socks each night. I often take two pairs of socks so to be able to put a dry pair on once into camp.

Grim but a good reminder. I have frost nipped toes several times. As a result I get boots that are bigger than what most people with my size of foot would wear so I have lots of toe wiggle room. Plus I swap out the foot beds with good ones as well as wear nice thick dachstein socks with a liner. One thing I often see people do in the winter when they need to remove their gloves is set them on their pack. I rarely do that - instead I shove them into my jacket to help them stay warm. Small things like that often help a lot.

No but my thoughts were exactly like yours. What an awesome descent it would be. I would think a late spring ascent would prime time.

Yes descending Milk Creek can be intimidating - we ended up doing it on the hottest day of the year. We finally said screw it and bum slid the first 1000 feet then started a downward traverse to the Russell in very sloppy snow. Lots of wet slides. That said people do go up Milk Creek from Pamela Lakes. On good firm snow it is a straight shot up the hill and a great skis descent. Oregon High lists the routes. The FA were done a hundred years ago. FWIW a few days before our climb in early July a couple of guys went up Milk Creek. They got to the summit pinnacle and got stuck in the rime. The last 100 feet should not be under-estimated.

I think with time you will get more comfortable with knowing when to belay vs simul climb. As such with three people the person in middle will stay in the middle and not muck around with the running prusik belay - that said doing what you did is basically like jugging a fixed line. Something else perhaps to note regarding the bergshrund. You may have been able to pass it but as you said had to forgo the summit or get benighted. On my first trip up the JPG my partners got to the ridgeline and said no way did they want to climb the chossy ridge. So we went down the ridge and came back on the Russell which was very easy. I mention this alternative because you might have poked around a bit more knowing that once over the bergshrund you could have retreated via another route with ease. So always think about alternatives (On my trip there this summer we did the lower part of JPG then finished on the north ridge so I have yet to do the choosy ridge - we also came back via the Russell). Also another good place to practice crevasse rescue is the Elliot Glacier on Hood. That makes for an easy day trip in the fall before the road closes.

All in all I think you did fine scratching your way up and taking they time to learn what you could before hand. My only comment would be the selection of the hole you practiced your crevasse rescue. Having lost two friends to crevasse / serac collapsing one needs to be very selective. What you went into looked a bit dicey. Here is what the glacier looked like a month earlier: http://mountainproject.com/v/109514242 Next time get up earlier and go earlier. That said do realize the ridge after the glacier is the real business part of the climb. The summit pinnacle is no picnic either. Nor is the descent once things get sloppy.

This is some what of the asshole reply - if you have to ask such general questions on the internet you probably should not be on the hill that time of year. That said expect everything - one year we had very nice conditions except for winds strong enough to give one a snow flake enema. Of course then we saw the whole of the Willis drop a load.

Pretty funny as the other day out of the blue I got a call from Fred. He is really hard of hearing so conversations can be difficult but he is still tack sharp. But he still travels around and does get out. The honor is one that is well deserved as his contribution to climbing in NA is second to none.

Thanks for sharing, sounds like you are on the road to recovery. Remember as long as yer not drinking a beer through a straw and can wipe yer own butt yer doing good.

PCG, you might send the folks making the film a note regarding your concerns. You bring up several valid concerns, the drone usage in wilderness and perhaps commercial photography without a permit on public land. Otherwise the photography was very nice. The story was good as well.

Like others I have carried the MSR dromedaries on climbs. I'll will often hike in with it empty then fill it when near camp from following water. I have never had the need to fill it with warm/hot water because when I take it we are not taking a stove. If taking a stove, I never take it with me cause my bottle is 1.5 liters and will just fill it with warm, never hot water.

Here is an old axe from the 1920's made by AV Goddard who made alpin stocks and ice axes in Portland. Jeff Thomas and I chatted about it and decided that it was mfg from a pick axe. Goddard had adverts in the Mazamas Annual as I found an advert from 1922.

That time of year is a crap shoot. Assuming you are taking the scree trail, there may not be too much snow but there could be a enough to make it miserable (a little snow on scree sucks). The other is weather in general, again a crap shoot. Could be nice could be pissing horizontal rain. So if you go be prepared for any type of weather and if a storm kicks in go down, white outs can get you lost very easily. Personally, I would head to the coast for the day. Even when pissing down I like the Oregon coast. Stop into Newport have bowl of Moe's Clam Cowder and a beer.

I am not really seeing anything that enlightening. The author seems to be stating the mostly the obvious and emphasizing the basics. He did not even get into a discussion on probably the biggest issue facing climbers on Rainier - rope up and place gear or not. On Liberty he barely mentions that many climbers end up with a high bivy and unprepared for it.

Nice little jaunt.

I learned today that Barbara Washburn passed away last week just a few weeks shy of her 100th birthday. http://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/obituaries/2014/09/25/barbara-polk-washburn-accidental-adventurer-was-first-woman-ascend-mount-mckinley/87oRdiAZr8HDTaCFL1ramN/story.html I met Barbara and Brad several times, visiting their home outside Boston. The visits were always enjoyable. With Brad telling stories about Alaska. During one visit he gave me his personal copy of his West Buttress book. During one of my last visits I talked with Barbara more than Brad. She was a wonderful woman. So tonight raise a glass to Barbara the first woman to climb Denali as well as several other Alaska peaks.

Except that is not the permit fee - we do not know except that is maximum amount proposed. It could be $15 …

Why would a guide be able to more easily afford it? The guide is also throwing the dice. They are paying for a permit up front and hoping to have paying clients. So still not much of difference both are speculative. That said your point on the cost of a permit is really what I think this conversation should be about. The articles are noting the maximum permit cost at being $1500. Further, as I stated I think, if implemented photographers should be able to get a permit forest wide - and to add your point at a reasonable cost. I think that would be fair considering all other commercial ventures need a permit. Fair enough, the way it was written stuck a cord. As Coldfinger noted there is a huge push especially here Oootah over Federal lands with people thinking because it is public land people should able do what they want regardless.

Hmm, you might want to start working for the timber, mining, grazing, and other extractive industries. Because their view point is very similar. While they do get a permit and do have impact they also pay far less than what they would pay if on state or private land. Now lets take your argument one step further. A climbing guide takes clients into the wilderness, their activities have no impact, if they earn enough income they pay an income tax. Yet they pay for a permit. So why should not a commercial photographer?