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bstach

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Everything posted by bstach

  1. My son is four months old and has made two trips to Squamish, both to the Smoke Bluffs. The first time, he was two weeks old and slept in a sling carried by mom. The second time he was 2 months old and slept in his car seat pretty much the whole time. The key is to keep him out of the rock fall zone. A bug net is a good idea, too.
  2. Get a #8 and #10 hexcentric. Hexes rock. I bet cj001f will sell you a whole set for $30 (slightly used).
  3. Climb with someone who has a rack, while you accumulate pieces as you have cash. This way you gain expertise placing gear while climbing with experienced leaders and also get a chance to use different brands and figure out what you like before you buy.
  4. bstach

    Sport v Trad

    Adam13 = Cindy66 ?
  5. Usually it is too wet to climb and not enough snow to ski. But you never know. I'm planning on staying home and working on my "honey-do" list. That way, when the snow flies there is plenty of goodwill built up I'd suggest a trip to Red Rocks or J-Tree.
  6. Jesus climbed the Mount of Olives. Interestingly, Jesus and John the Baptist were both liberals in their day. Or at least reformers that railed against the religious legalism and hypocrisy of the establishment.
  7. bstach

    Rainier Rangers

    Do they not still have a 'self registration' box at the ranger station? Just fill out the form, put your money in the envelope and slide it in the box.
  8. St. Augustine's Confessions ended up working out very well for him. Today they still provide encouragement and inspiration for many.
  9. This past summer i did a family camping trip on Saltspring Island and was reminded that there is some climbing there on Mt. Maxwell. My question is has anybody climbed there and is it worthwhile to bring my rope and rack next time i am out that way? From what I saw, it seems to be the same size and scope to Mt. Erie. The rock looked like it might be a bit chossy, but I didn't get a close look.
  10. I have found biking (preferably up hill) and rollerblading provide better training for climbing than running. Funner, too. Just my $0.02.
  11. How about let something go? Decrease quantity of life, increase quality. Can't work < 12 hour days due to residency? How about not doing two 12 hour climbing days on the weekend? There are many chapters in life. The mountains will still be there - maybe in this chapter you climb less. Maybe you should post this on the "father's thread" in Cafe Sensitivioso. Lots of new fathers here. They'll tell you a few things about managing work, family, climbing and exhaustion.
  12. It seems to be a bad idea. Here is a quote from "On Rope", Padgett and Smith, 1992, published by the National Speleological Society. I consider this a reliable source as this book is the equivalent of "Freedom of the Hills" in caving circles. "All indications point to the fact that fabric softeners are not a good idea. Fabric softeners have from time to time been recommended as a way of softening well used stiff ropes. Instead, recent tests on aging rope indicate fabric softeners substantially weaken rope. It is proposed that this weakening is due to bonding of free hydrogen molecules from the softener to the nylon polymer, actually changing the molecular structure of the rope's nylon." pg. 24
  13. This past year cars at a trailhead in BC (Elfin Lakes??) were torched. Clearly they were out just for laughs, not just your CDs and home address. Which suggests to me the "trailhead vehicle", while a step in the right direction, won't neccessarily protect you. Its getting nasty out there. Also, I have left my doors unlocked, only to have the windows smashed anyway by thieves that are too lazy or stupid to try the door first.
  14. Everything I have read of Greg Child's is of excellent quality and very entertaining. I have "Postcards from the Ledge" on my shelf, a collection of his short stories.
  15. Have you seen that vigilante man Have you seen that vigilante man Have you seen that vigilante man Ive been hearin his name all over this land Lonely nights down in the engine house Sleepin just as still as a mouse Man comes home, chase the crowds in the rain Thats a vigilante man Vigilante man Vigilante man Well I ramble around from town to town Ramble round from town to town And they hunted us a while like a wild herd of cattle Thats a vigilante man Tell me why does that vigilante man Tell me why does that vigilante man Carry that sawed off shotgun in his hand Would he shoot his brother and sister down Have you seen that vigilante man Have you seen that vigilante man Have you seen that vigilante man Ive been hearin his name all over this land Vigilante man Vigilante man Vigilante man Vigilante man Vigilante man Vigilante man
  16. "The Ascent of Rum Doodle" ...its a classic and apparently reprinted in 2001
  17. High Mountain Woody
  18. There is now a sign in front of the Kain hut telling people not to piss on or near the front porch as the local wildlife will come and chew on it. So which one of you imbiciles was pissing on the porch up there?
  19. I always see a goat or two in WA Pass. You could always try the Zoo for a sure thing.
  20. "She began her coffee binge last Wednesday after getting only five hours' sleep the previous night. " OMG!! Only five hours sleep!! I'm afraid she'll get little sympathy from the fathers here. Nor anyone who has crammed all night for an exam, or done an alpine start, or....etc. etc. etc.
  21. bstach

    Singles beware

    Speaking of which...whatever happened to Cindy66?
  22. Will there be belay-partner swaping?
  23. Hexes are dead easy to place once you know how. I don't fiddle with gear.
  24. How would one film an attempt like that, from a practical point of view? Many cameras strategically placed on the wall? Or did he do the speed ascent and then go back and film himself on the climb from multiple angles and in different spots on the wall? Any folks out there with experience making climbing films such as this?
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