bstach

I hope the life of this thread is brief.

Good to know...sounds like this is a common mistake.

I would suggest roping up where this picture is taken. Then climb up the corner on the right (5.6-ish, very foreshortened in this pic), then take a hard left across the slab to gain the base of the dihedral higher up on the left. That is where the first bolted station is. Note, some guide books refer to this pitch as a scramble.

For Sherri and Rmncwrtr: http://www.collegehumor.com/video:1656442

If the climber does not exert enough force on the rope to stretch it, the rope does not exert much force on the climber (as per Newton's third law). Am I missing something here? I understand that the spring constant changes, that it takes more force to stretch the rope per unit length at small displacements....but the force also has to be small.

The response about kids falling harder is nonsense. Force required to stop a climber has only to do with the mass of the climber and how far they fall and the stretchiness of the rope (which is constant). There is no way a greater force can be generated given the same fall distance by a lighter climber.

$7k before or after you pay duty and jump through all the hoops to import a foreign vehicle?

There is a single pitch 5.8 test chimney at the Yin and Yang area in Red Rocks....here is a pic.

You'd win the mustache ride contest.

Its not to late to become a gastroenterologist. They make bank. You still have to work with assholes, but they are mostly sedated.

Linky

MountaingirlBC is da bomb - someone climb with her already!!

Grand Wall pics so hot right now! Also, self portraits taken on lead...thump, thump, thump!!

What beer did you drink?

man slaughter man's laughter The apostrophe is your friend.

Thanks for the update, Tyrone. Glad you didn't get blowed up, Blake.

I dropped a cam (red metolius) from half way up Yak Peak (~1 pitch below where Yak crack and Reality Check meet). Two weeks later I saw a guy carrying it on his rack at Squamish (it has very distinctive markings). He said he found it on the trail at the base of the climb. If you had been the guy who found it, would you have used it? How about if you had known how far it had been dropped? That same trip i found a red tri-cam on the peak of Yak. I assumed it couldn;t have been dropped far, but the sling looked ratty. I intended to replace it, but then i lost it somewhere. Generally, for gear bootied from cracks, use your common sense. If it looks OK, it probably is. If it has a sling on it, the sling should be considered suspect and replaced. This past summer i found two nuts at the base of Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge. One was in like new condition. The other, the cable was rusted to shit. Use your common sense. Also, i use bootied biners for more mundane things like racking nuts, carrying my nut tool etc. and they will be the first to get left behind if i ever have to bail.

Is this closure still in effect? According to the SAS web site, the closure is over as of July, but it hasn't been updated since June: http://www.squamishaccess.ca/News/Papoose.html Still seems to be a buttload of rock at the base. Also, anyone know where to park and new trailhead starts?

My son is four months old and has made two trips to Squamish, both to the Smoke Bluffs. The first time, he was two weeks old and slept in a sling carried by mom. The second time he was 2 months old and slept in his car seat pretty much the whole time. The key is to keep him out of the rock fall zone. A bug net is a good idea, too.

Get a #8 and #10 hexcentric. Hexes rock. I bet cj001f will sell you a whole set for $30 (slightly used).

Climb with someone who has a rack, while you accumulate pieces as you have cash. This way you gain expertise placing gear while climbing with experienced leaders and also get a chance to use different brands and figure out what you like before you buy.

Adam13 = Cindy66 ?

Usually it is too wet to climb and not enough snow to ski. But you never know. I'm planning on staying home and working on my "honey-do" list. That way, when the snow flies there is plenty of goodwill built up I'd suggest a trip to Red Rocks or J-Tree.

Jesus climbed the Mount of Olives. Interestingly, Jesus and John the Baptist were both liberals in their day. Or at least reformers that railed against the religious legalism and hypocrisy of the establishment.

Do they not still have a 'self registration' box at the ranger station? Just fill out the form, put your money in the envelope and slide it in the box.