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bstach

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Everything posted by bstach

  1. What are best bets for a cheap hotel that is not too scummy or scary? I stayed at Arizona Charlie's on Decatur (just off Charleston, well located for climbers) for $44/night two weeks ago. This was mid-week, I think generally the prices go waaay up on the weekend at all hotels I know of. I've stayed at Wild Wild West for $35/night a few years ago. I wouldn't stay there again, room smelled and was dirty.
  2. Put plastic bags over your feet before you put them in the shoes.
  3. Can't afford the $10/night?
  4. You have an erie similarity to your avatar pic
  5. Read my post again...
  6. So doubling up on cams instead of hexes implies one is sewing it up too much and climbing beyond their limit? This wasn't meant to be a shot at people who carry double racks. The gear you need ultimately depends on the route. Having a double rack does add a margin of safety in that you are more likely to have exactly the piece you need, but at the expense of a heavier load. I was thinking about alpine climbing when I wrote this; for cragging, carrying a heavier rack is less of an issue. I just prefer to climb with a lighter rack and do alpine routes a grade or two lower than my on-site ability - allowing me to run it out and carry a lighter rack. This is just a personal preference, not a shot at anybody. Also, for routes where I know doubles are needed, I usually combine my partners rack, thus I don't need to own doubles. If your climbing partners do not own any protection, then this could be a problem for you.
  7. Also, if you ever need to bail, having a few larger hexes might save you some cash compared to leaving your #3 camalot behind. I have left hexes behind on two occasions. I have a friend who was forced to leave a #2 and #3 camalot behind while backing off in a rainstorm. Sucks to be him.
  8. I use large hexes to double up the large sizes(1-4") instead of buying a second set of expensive, heavy camalots. I always carry #8 thru #10 hexes (plus #11 if I think i will need it). Also, unless you have alot of money and like to cart a heavy rack around, no need to double up on cams. My rack consists of: 1 set of nuts 1 set of cams (Blue thru Black Metolius, #1-#4 Camalot) #8-#11 hex If you are sewing it up to the point where you need doubles, maybe you should consider an easier route. It will be much more enjoyable than spending half your time placing gear every 5 feet. For the climbs that you know you may need doubles of certain sizes (i.e. parallel cracks)...thats what partners/friends are for. My $0.02
  9. bstach

    Simulclimbing

    Do you have a pic...i'm having a hard time visualizing this.
  10. bstach

    Immersion!

    I have found that the nicer the Hotel, the fewer complimentary services there are. You pay for *every* little thing; ridiculous amounts of money, too - like $8 for the bottle of water they leave on the desk. Its the opposite of what you would expect - paying a ridiculous amount of money for the room and they can't even throw in a bottle of water. Thats how the Hilton's pay for Paris' lifestyle.
  11. WTF?
  12. Most of the canyons are OK during the Rendezvous as most of the activity is in the pullouts. However, before and after (i.e. Friday/Monday) its a donkey show on the popular routes.
  13. bstach

    jealous?

    OMG LOL
  14. The highest point in Saskatchewan is Cypress Hills, 1300m...what do you suggest doing after lunch?
  15. If you measure a troll by the number of pages, this will be a classic.
  16. bstach

    amen

    Excellent article. Thanks for posting it, Porter.
  17. Cindy66 was a troll. Either that or she got murdered on her blind date.
  18. A link that works... http://www.vimff.org
  19. bstach

    Homeopathy

    The ultimate teething solution...(cheap, too)... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=764228&PHPSESSID=aedcd904476efaaa3c9692ef0018db80#Post764228
  20. I accidentally discovered the bestest teething ring... ...just make sure you wash it first.
  21. I agree with Ken4ord. I have climbed Kili (via Western Breach)and Mt. Kenya (normal route) and Kenya was a much better experience. Kili is dirty and crowded; it was dissappointing to see no environmental ethic - trash thrown everywhere, even by the porters. I would suggest you do the minimum and only hire one guide and one porter (or have the guide carry his own shit). Pack and carry your own food etc. and go super light. This requires more preparation/organization on your part, but it is worth it imo. This assumes you have the knowledge and experience to take care of yourself and make good choices on the mountain. I went with a fully organized climb and there was two porters for every client - a bit ridiculous...while the fresh pineapple, chicken, eggs etc. and having all the cooking done and someone to carry my shit was very nice, i wouldn't do it this way again. I went with these guys http://www.naturebeauties.com cheap, and you get what you pay for. I also did a camping safari with these guys which was excellent. You will save money if you book your activities once you arrive. And, honestly, the day I spent getting things organized in Arusha was one of my most memorable days in Africa. I know some like to have everything set before they leave the US and A, but this worked for me.
  22. bstach

    Homeopathy

    Does the placebo effect apply to babies? I would guess not.
  23. bstach

    BAD DOCTOR!!!

    Well no wonder that doctor got punched!
  24. bstach

    Homeopathy

    I will share my observations about how well the homeopathic teething remedy is working and let you draw your own conclusions: Mom - much more relaxed knowing she has given her son something for the teething and its not a drug like tylenol or alcohol (cuz alcohol is baaad, mmmkay); she is sleeping better Baby - I haven't noticed any difference...he still wakes up in the middle of the night crying and moaning. For what its worth, I rubbed Irish Whiskey into his gums once and it didn't seem to have much effect...but the few shots I had helped me.
  25. Whatever...we have our own version of the Mounties up here...my point wasn't to criticize the Mounties...but to see if i was off base. I agree with the poster who stated this is a 'learn and repeat' issue. Sadly,when i brought it up with an executive member, he took the "you need to support/obey the leader" stance instead of engaging the actual issue.
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