bstach
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Everything posted by bstach
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wondering if anyone has been up Yak Peak this year. With the great weather we have been having is the face dry or wet? Thinking of heading up Yak Check this weekend. Will I be post-holing or skating on the way down ? Don’t really want to bring boots and crampons.
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question Backpacking Tent on Rainier DC (Muir + Ingraham Flat) Mid July
bstach replied to Safarir's topic in The Gear Critic
So how did it turn out? I've used a 3 season tent at Muir in May. It sucked. Too much mesh paneling so the wind just blew straight on through. Also the poles got a little bent. Still usable, but the poles will never quite be the same. Why not just stay at the hut? -
Just to be clear, I wasn't implying that physical threats are entertaining or appropriate. I don't condone that. Sorry if I gave that impression. But some of the repartee between regulars (TTK, KKK, Kevbone, Fairweather and many others) was pure gold (and non violent). I do recall Spray was guarded by a warning that it was not for the thin skinned.
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CascadeClimber, you should have filed a police report. One call from the Boys in Blue and I'm sure he would have backed off pretty damn fast.
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I miss the heyday of cc.com. It did get a bit spicy here for a while, but the flamers just added color along with the other characters here, imo, and the worst of it was easily ignored (also, I thought the mods did a good job of balancing freedom of expression and maintaining civil discussion). I found it great entertainment and was my first choice for distraction from work. Great climbing beta, ideas and inspiration and helpful when I had specific questions, which is what originally brought me here. I was on here daily for a few years. Now I am here less than once/month and it could be less as not much happens in that time. I climb a lot less now that I have a family and more work responsibility, but will still come when I need beta. My only regret was not coming out to one of the rope-ups or sausage parties to meet all you weirdos.
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It takes more than a masturbation video to bring someone down these days. Is this dude not watching the news?
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Climate change, the latest findings, and how we use the outdoors?
bstach replied to jon's topic in Climber's Board
The tragedy of the commons -
It sounds like they are still missing, but now being presumed dead? Have they located bodies? I'm confused. I accompanied Marc on one of his failed attempts at Slesse NE Buttress. I think he was 15 at the time. We got backed off by snow and cold just below the bivy ledge. His mom dropped us at the trailhead and fed us lunch when we returned. Very charismatic and ambitious young man even then. Its been really cool to see him develop from there into the climber he became. RIP, Marc. You left us too soon.
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It's pretty fuckin' great.
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You might like this then:
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Has anybody used those UV treatment systems? I'm thinking of getting the one that fits inside the lid of a Nalgene bottle. I always treat, except when the water is coming right off the glacier. Chlorine tabs are my method of choice.
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Yes, that's perfect. Thanks, Oly.
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Wondering if there is a source to get BC topo maps online. Specifically looking for the Elfin Lakes area. Just need something that I can print from my computer. I'm sure I have seen links on here before, but can't seem to find it. Thanks
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question Bleach/paint fumes around climbing gear
bstach replied to Meredith's topic in The Gear Critic
There's this article, but the testing they did was with actual contact with the chemicals. What I get out of this is if it was only exposed to fumes (not getting anything splashed on them) and only for a short period and in a well ventilated area, maybe you are OK. I say if you can afford it, replace it. Sucks for sure though. Cleaning chemicals and climbing gear You should consider contacting the manufacturer directly. If you do, please follow-up here with their response. -
question Bleach/paint fumes around climbing gear
bstach replied to Meredith's topic in The Gear Critic
I used to store bleach under my bathroom sink. One time I didn't tighten the lid fully. It ate through the sink and created a leak (bottom of the sink is not glazed and the corrosion eventually caused the glaze to crack). But since your basement is a larger area and probably much better ventilated than my bathroom cabinet, maybe you are OK? Its hard to say, but you are rightly concerned. I don't know that there is any way to know for sure other than subjecting the equipment to destructive testing. I'd probably get my cams reslung, draws and webbing replaced etc. My life is worth it. So I guess the question you need to ask yourself is: "Do you feel lucky? Well do ya, Punk?!" - C. Eastwood -
I called the gym and they told me that it is what is taught by the ACMG (professional accreditation body for mountain guides in Canada). Here is the technique described. They also use something called the Edelrid Ohm to add friction when the climber is heavier than the belayer. Perhaps I'm old school, but is anchoring your belayer to the floor not considered good enough anymore? Has anybody here used this contraption? I guess their gym, their rules. But when I am outside, I'd like to be caught asap, thank you very much.
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I was looking at the lead climbing course at my local climbing gym in Vancouver (for a friend). I was surprised that the course includes "dynamic belay techniques" which I googled and also found a few threads here on the topic. To me dynamic belays seem dangerous for noobs and unnecessary for 90% of climbing situations, especially gym and sport climbing. Why would a climbing gym be teaching this to noob leaders? Please just catch my fall as fast as you can! Course description
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Sad indeed. This sounds like a situation where a prussick or autoblock on the rappel would have made a difference. Or knotting the ends of the rope (not always practical, i know). I've been hearing about too many rappelling accidents over the last few years. Play safe everyone.
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Any good rope deals this year, Bill? Preference would be for a 9-10mm 60m Duodess = nice to have Dry = don't care -Brian
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What is considered the most comprehensive guide nowadays? Or best coverage of new route development in the last ten years? The most recent guide I have is The Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane published in 2005. And also Whistler Rock Climbs / Squamish North Sport Guidebook by Kevin McLane published 2000
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HAHAHAHAHAH...its a fucking donkey show now. If you come after 10:00am you won't get a spot at Murrin. if you come after 10:30am you won't get a spot in the expanded Smoke Bluff parking lot (but maybe across the street?) You can guess what that means for line ups at Neat and Cool.
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I haven't lurked or posted in a long time. I got laid off from my job a few years ago and started doing consulting work. cc.com is much less interesting when I am billing by the hour. There is a cautionary tale in here somewhere for those wise enough to catch it. Still climbing, but less with a busy business and kid. Open to someone rope gunning me up Angel Crest though. Who's in?
