ericb

You miss the point completely. The newbie was unwilling to listen and work it out. I have been climbing for a long time and still listen and learn. Those who do not, worry me. A lack of willingness to compromise or collaborate on the part of a partner is enough for me to end a climb. I have seen what can happen when one person thinks he or she knows what is best for a group or team and will not compromise. Usually the whole trip becomes a fiasco in an effort to pump the ego of one idiot. Or worse. I don't think I'm missing the point. There were at least two issues on the trip....one was a personality issue - that he was stubborn, foolish, and wreckless - what you address here, not much POTM could have done here but just turn around. The second was that he was very inexperienced......that could have be fleshed out well before the technical climbing commenced. It would seem that POTM had a bit of summit fever as well as he ignored all the warning signs and continued on to the summit with this guy....would you have?

Aren't those two contradictory? Your climbing strategy is basicallly saying always stay well within your limits. Whereas your skiing sentence advocates pushing your limits. They are contradictory, and true in my case. I tend to stay within my limits on Alpine climbs due to the risks involved. Marriage has changed my situation a bit over the last couple years (both availability and risk tolerance). I only get so many coupons, so I pick my weekends more wisely than I used to, and the same selectivity that decreases the odds of dying, tends to increase the odds of summiting. The consequences of skiing beyond my limits (at least within area boundaries) are less. If I would have climbed harder this summer, I might have had a lower success rate, but increased my grade more from June/Oct

Pup et al, I think this thread has brought out some good points, but I'd like to go against the grain a little. Agreed that Jamin might lack experience, but I can't help but think that you need to take some personal responsibility as well for the Dome Peak fiasco. If you are picking a random partner off this board, you shouldn't assume anything about their experience. Why is it that you didn't know he'd never been on a glacier until you were roping up or after. Did you not quiz the guy on his experience before agreeing to go on the trip with him? I generally climb with friends I'm familiar with, but did answer one random post on this site for a climbing partner this summer....glad I did as we had a great weekend, and he was a stud climber - much better than I. Before I agreed to climb with him, I researched his posts and got a feel for the types of climbing he had done....they pretty much spoke for themselves. Once meeting up, we discussed how long we had been climbing and climbs we had done. I was also very transparent about my ability level, and what I thought my comfort level would be both leading and following. Consequently, we picked out 3 WA-Pass routes that were adequately challenging for him, and within my abilities, and had a great trip. Similarly, on another site I hooked up with a guy of ~ equal skill level and did a couple climbs...1 alpine, 1 day at index. Again, we talked in depth about our climbing and lead abilities and picked appropriate climbs...consequently we had 2 very successful outings. If you get yourself half way up a mountain with someone who doesn't know what they are doing, barring outright dishonesty, it's probably as much your fault as theirs.

One strategy for achieving a high success rate is pick your weather and pick easy routes....my personal strategy. Then you don't have to feel like a wuss. I'd look at it kinda like skiing....if you don't take falls, you probably aren't skiing hard enough. I think the male ego is a tricky beast, so it's good to discuss your philosophy with partners before leaving the trailhead. It might make it a less stressful/contentious decision on the mountain. I think if you learn on the final dicey pitch that your partner has a summit mandatory attitude, you haven't done a good job of picking/screening your partner.

I've got this and love it.....couldn't pass it up on Pro-deal....I don't they make it anymore....I've checked.

this pertains to like half the people on the Hood Speculation Thread

Just LOL at work and got busted for surfing.....this is some good stuff!

better yet....a new forum! http://needlepoint.about.com/mpboards.htm

http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2003499078_webclimbers28.html

perhaps the reason it has no known winter ascents is because the folks that climbed it didn't see fit to mention it. I didn't submit a TR this summer when I took my wife up Das Toof either.

I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt....I'm sure he meant "to give incentive"

Well Dumb ass, Mr. Montanta did have some good points but as he said you guys are to F'ing smart to listen. His worse comment was about Tax money. Who the F cares how much it costs. Someones life. Spend the money and find them. But who really cares about that. Lets just irritate some the low IQ tards in here. What kind of person has nothing better to do than waste his time on a site dedicated to a sport he knows nothing about, "irritating....low IQ tards". Sounds like a pretty pathetic life you got going for you.

Phil...how in the world did you spend your time before you discovered CC.com

How much time did you waste on this site before you were inspired to be a better parent?

Yeah, heard about these Haiku. What are they? This thread has gone cold Thought it was time for some art counting syllables

how about a Haiku Kevbone, so much time! Why are you on here all day? Sugar Mamma, eh?

Please stop....you will never be one of us. What did he do to deserve this compliment?

I got "permission" to buy a Hilleberg Nallo 2!

a) He didn't make fun of the kid....just passing along something that someone else put together b) You might ask yourself how hard it would be to climb 2500 VF of 50+ degree snow/ice/rock climb with a heavy pack. You will want to haul a porta-ledge as well cause you will be spending the night half way up.

Looking at picking up a lightweight winter/spring tent with my Xmas cash. I've read a lot of reviews on this tent, and it looks great but haven't seen much from folks in the PNW. Anybody have any experience with it?

ummm...in case you don't know the abbreviation....Not Suitable For Work....Yikes....just about got busted

Perhaps for you...who can say? http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=grundle

Question.....what do you do with it on a multiday trip? Babypowder? Squat in a creek for a little "taint"enance? Just let it ride, or "rye" as the case may be? Have you ever secretly scrubbed it with any of you partners gear as a joke? Do you have a special cloth....similar to a pee bottle? Do you name it, and does the name change trip-to-trip?

Experienced?.....Kevbone and Muffy?

what insurance company?