ericb

good for cordelettes, bad for hexes

Spencer....I think it is very possible to find good partners here...I've only tried it once, and found a phenomenal rope gun (thanks Blake!). That said, you never know what you are going to get, and to make sure you head out with a partner that knows what they are doing, you yourself need to have enough experience to ask questions and guage their experience prior to the trip, as well as evaluate their ability level on the climb itself. I've heard of one case in particular where someone hooked up with a partner on this board and was quite far into a popular, but remote north face snow and ice route when they realize their partner did not know basic crevasse rescue skills. In another case, an unnamed newbie undersold his lack of experience to a partner located on this board, and did some really stupid wreckless things to endanger him and his partner...let's just say I don't think they climbed together again, and frankly he will probably have extreme difficulty getting partners here in the future due to the description of the trip that was posted here. When Blake posted for a partner, I pulled some of his TRs (FAs, etc.), and quickly realized that it was me that was going to be the liability. That said, I was pretty transparent about my own moderate ability level with him, we selected appropriate routes, and had a great couple days in the mountains.

Ditto on what Goatboy said....I didn't think the ledges were that bad, and I'm not particularly cavalier. With the time you buy by not having to downclimb and rap the west ridge (likely with company), you've got plenty of time to take it slow and steady. I've seen comments from some that have set a running belay, but I didn't think it was that sketchy. I thought the route down from the gendarme was very straightforward.....path of least resistance, but I think there was more snow on it than when I did it.

Anything with loose steep scree is bad for my marriage

letsroll...do you any personal experience with these??? They sound pretty sweet

Just guessing...how old....I can update it

You mean googlepages (sp)??

Bush twins busted in prostitution ring

Are you disputing, or in awe like me?

Apologize for unrequested advice, but Rainier in winter is a major undertaking, and my guess is that the odds of a weather window are pretty slim relative to say, July. I'd be hesitant to throw down ~$1,000 bucks for RMI, and another $1,000 for air-travel, gear rental etc. and be locked into a climbing window with little or no flexibility given what winters are like around here.

Only those inferior to you, sir

Corteo is near Black Peak yes???. Do you have the Beckey guide for that area. If you are in the neighborhood, and haven't done it, Black Peak, NE Ridge is a great climb.

hot as hell???

dberdinka.....out of curiosity, how did you execute the backpacking trip with your toddler....Mom with the Sherpani, and you with a monster pack? I'm considering doing something short with the little bitty in late September....maybe Lake Ann or equivalent, and just trying to figure out how the logistics might shake out...me with a pack and ergo on front for counter-balance, etc.

I'm sure Dave_Schuldt will be posting a conflicting report from the reputable crooksandliars.com at any minute.

Hmmmmm.....very interesting....what has Vick lost in endorsements already from the dog fighting fluff? And then $13M/year on his football contract....ouch.

Very cute.....I can see the BD Marketing Collateral now...."Whether it's 40mph gusts, or an 18 month old toddler you are faced with...."

If you are cool throwing down for freeze dried, try Mary Jane's Farm Chili Mac.....change your life.....swear. They sell it at REI and Backcountry.com....but in the 1.5 servings pouches....not quite enough fuel for me....I got it direct in the 2 serving pouches for less than REI sells the 1.5. Check out the specs....double it for the 2 serving pouch Specification Description Net weight 4.9 ounces Serving size 1 cup Servings per container 1.5 Calories per serving 350 Calories from fat 80 Total fat per serving 9 gram Saturated fat 5 grams Cholesterol per serving 20 milligrams Sodium 530 milligrams Carbohydrates per serving 50 grams Dietary fiber 8 grams Sugar 2 grams Protein 18 grams

My favorite freeze dried is Jane's Farm organic Chili Mac....it's vegetarian but great stats with protein/fat/carbs, and if you buy it direct, you can get the two serving packs in bulk direct from her website for a reasonable price. Still a bit spendy, but I think it's worth it....also, no dishes!

Here's a thought....in America we have the right to bear arms, and the right to own a hand gun. This law has been around since antiquity. If you don't like it, why don't YOU move to Canada?

I don't own a gun, but I've heard Glock's are nice and light....plastic composite. One of my post college roommates had one (I discovered long after he moved in). He was an interesting guy. http://www.glock.com/english/index_pistols.htm FWIW - if you are so blind without your glasses, firing a handgun might have its complications. In this case, however, a couple shots out the window, into the air probably would have stopped the assault.

Pudge Brothers on 45th in Seattle...I've only ever had their Chicken Pesto but it was quite tasty. Also, Pete's has great calzones....never needed to have their pizza. For chains, I also think Romio's is decent.

O no.....does that mean you guys are going to be breastfeeding him until he's eight?

Mike...don't know if you've tried Myoplex, but it actually tastes pretty good. A bit higher on the carbs and spendy at ~ $2 per serving. I don't understand half of the ingredients, however, which is a bit disconcerting. It's loaded with vitamins as well....more of a meal replacement than pure protein powder.