jordansahls

I don't think that the Forrest service does anything that volunteers couldn't do with regards to general land management. With the exception of the occasional fire or road/bridge repair it seems like we are being asked to pay for shit we could do ourselves. I understand that the money has to come from somewhere, but I was under the impression that the money came from our taxes (naive, I know). So now we get taxed twice, once by the fed and again with a ticket, Its bullshit. Plus, anyone who has climbed anything somewhat remote in the cascades has been on climbers trails or game trails that aren't maintained. I don't buy into the whole, "you-wouldn't-be-able-to-have-trails-if-it-wasn't-for-the-forest-service" argument. Plus, if you want a good example of Forest service access policy's try getting out to certain areas in the Winter. All they do is gate shit. They take the idiot populace stance, "sure we could just leave the gates open and post a big sign saying your on your own, but instead we're going to intervene and decide for you because people are stupid and need our help". What a mess!

Crazy [video:youtube]9ssIhiD8kKM&feature

Years back when I climbed the NF we approached from the maude/7FJ col. I had a similar experience to jshamster. Mud, loose rock, and more than a few projectiles. Also, the traverse spit us out 1/3 of the way up the route, so you miss the beginning. If you want a more "complete" climb go to the lake.

did she give you rabdo?

Cutthroat lake trailhead is the bee's knees.

Great TR. I did this route with the Piasano pinnacle start last year, our rope got stuck three times coming down from the summit at dark. There must be something about this route that causes midnight retreats. There is something super amazing about watching your friends disappear into the night with only their headlamps distinguishing them from the dark.

thats what happens when you put your balls near the microwave.

Did you get a look at Dragontail? I'm wondering if triple couloirs is still in.

damn, that looks good!

It sounds like later in june or even early july may be a better time to climb this route. Or am i just making things up?

Spontaneity arete on La Petit Cheval would be a good option.

5 years is a lot of time to do ones homework. Thanks for the input and info, it helps.

I was thinking about that. The mechanism of injury is right, but Its hard to tell if I am getting a negative or positive O'briens test. It definitly hurts when I resist extension with my arm internally rotated and horizontaly adducted with the thumb down, but not a lot. Everything I have read on the SLAP tear seems to state that there has to be a significant reduction in pain between the two test condtitions for the test to be positive. What was your expirience with the test?

So around 5 years ago while climbing I caused some damage to my left shoulder while reaching very strenuously overhead on a small hold. I felt a pop and then a sharp nerve pain. I took NAIDS and rested. I have had issues ever since. I have been to the PT and have stuck with all of your classic rotator cuff muscle strengthening exercises. While it has helped, I still have limited strength and some shoulder instability. I can't lift any weights overhead without having some pain on the following days. I still have complete active range of motion, even when my shoulder flairs up, so if it is impingement it cant be all that bad. Anyway, I'm running out of ideas. Its effecting my climbing and fitness. I'm wondering if its possible to have a slight tear of the supraspinatus without having extreme pain or pain at night? Should I go see the doc and get an MRI? I'm out of ideas, anyone have any suggestions?

No need for the #5. The bear hug pitch is soft and unexposed with amazing foot and hand holds. However, if you don't mind hauling the extra gear and it makes you feel more comfortable then go for it. This view from the belay should give you an idea about the length and nature of the pitch:

It seems like you could work some endurance with the right diameter dowels. I'm not looking to work specific finger flexors but more the gross upper body fibers involved in keeping ones body stable during climbing like moves. Also, lock off strength is something I could train better so it sounds good in that regard.

Interesting stuff. I have access to rings and am thinking about building the ladder for more of a forearm endurance workout on rainy days or when I cant get to the crag. It seems like the level of core workout can be adjusted by many factors on the ladder such as the angle, if you use your feet, speed, and more things I am probably forgetting. So it wouldn't necessarily be a core only setup.

The construction doesn't seem all that hard, but I'm curios to hear from people who have used one or who have tried one. What are your general thoughts? What is a good size for Dowel diameter? Is is a good training tool? ect ect...

Dave MacLeod's first ascent of Rhapsody in the E11 movie always blows my mind. here is a preview [video:youtube]a5MajyX6J1c

Its hard to say. We at most climbed a variation, and at least repeated the route. Some of the stuff doesn't quite line up, but the climb was a while ago and my memory isn't all that great. Anyway, thanks for digging up the info, it sure is helpful.

Heaven shall burn, nice and heavy. [video:youtube]aq91lBOGnqE The Haunted [video:youtube]7yzH8cQTuRk

Not sure of any rigid guidlines, but I would suggest putting in a couple long days of the real thing. As a general rule of thumb, go climb something like white horse or Eldorado in a day (over 5k vertical gain), If you feel wasted or weak then you need to be doing more.

Uhh. who wants to get the FA on this beast. Also, congrats on an truly amazing climb!

Not to Hijack Dane's stoke thread, but this video got me super stoked! [video:youtube]3fJUlP3eyOA

I think your just looking at the bergshrund near the base of the Coleman headwall, not an avalanch crown. However, It looks like there is evidence of smaller sluff avalanches. Climb it early.