bwrts

I have not done this route, yet...I have looked at it from the Flame and did notice it looked thin to the start. There are lots of routes in the Leavenworth area with scary runouts...go to goat dome or givler's dome if you need examples... Furthermore, your original post implies Peter does not remember the start to this particular route... For god's fawking sake, he did the route like 20 years ago and I do believe has climbed a "Few routes" after that. So, really by asking him if he feels a flake broke or some other excuse is dumb. Likewise, the responses of people who do not lead 5.12 are very valid and saying that they are not is fuking selfish. Also, if the person you claim that has repeated the route "20x" has any validity they will post their opinion to this thread. Like TimL says: I bold the last statement because this is as true as the sky is blue and the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. Finally, if you want to do Midnight Rock a favor then fix the fucked up bolt-job on Yellow bird...

There is a tree (maybe two) and tall bushes there...so, the ledge is no longer "treeless"... Must have been quite the sight... Fred with a saw and large trees falling down lower castle.

brilliance from a llama! Please leave the bolts as is....there is plenty of gear above and below these 1/4" rusty bolts. And I do believe there is plenty good belays above the bolts Selkirk mentions...just stretch the rope a bit more...

Not to be nit-pickey but Geek the Greek is wrong about the "treeless" loggers ledge on castle. However, I do agree about the overcleaning of routes and boulders being rediculous. One can climb a route without removing ALL the vegetation. I don't have many years of backing experience (~14years now) but, I do believe the "sport-era" sped up the overall impacts that Geek and MattP mentions. I mean, back in the day, most the stuff in the Icicle was considered worthless choss and unsignificant... so why bother. Also reclaiming old forgotten routes is the sortof the same thing; if the routes were good then why didn't they get climbed thru the years. Even though they may be right next to some classic. Obviously, the route is not that good so it was not repeated often. And I am not referring solely to Index....

From the looks of your pics, it appears these gents were on the last pitch of the Joust. CB, if you know them, inquiring minds want to know. TIA-

nice work gents! but, really I am confused.... did you actually cross "washington pass" on your traverse?

My friends went up near this recently and said at the base of the real climbing it looked like such a pile of shit they pulled the plug and went home. Sounds to me the peak should have been named Sleezee.

oh, that is reassuring. anyways keys or not still for sale and ready to load on to your truck asap (m-f 9am to 5pm) cheers!

Post deleted by bwrts

seattle white w/dirt and dust and leaves and whatever else sitting outside will do to an object. i am sure the locks work, actually I need to scrounge up the keys from my boss. if not available, we may have other locks. he will be back monday. if no go on the locks, not much money to replace. as for the size, it is a full-sized canopy and I do not know if your truck is compatiable. it came of a full-sized chevy pu, non-extended cab.

This canopy is not any use for my company, great shape but a bit dirty. Pm me to arrange P/U and money exchange. Cheers!

oh lance, you will be home soon again. nice work on the cleanup and really the mess is not only in your area. people don't care about how their trash affects other people even in the chumstick.

winter, okay that is excusable

vantage bolter going drill crazy= pogue

yeah the quartzite is hard and there are lots of cracks so why bolt is what the locals decided on... the sandstone quarry wall is where the wars occurred, from what I remember talking to locals there when I was there last. I plan on going this labor weekend as I am visiting my grams and gramp then... I will ask some more if I do make it up there. Also, the bold routes in Eldo were put up bold and remain bold. I remember a R&I or Climbing Rag depicting such routes a few years ago... also may have mentioned Black hills, SD areas.

unemployment compensation is all the fukin rocks you boys get to climb. so FO!

just walk bob. it ain't that far.

not true. go to devils lake in Wisc===> no bolts allowed. go to Eldo in boulder...lots of bold climbing is repeated. Go to Ebe in Germany... fuk they don't even use shoes or chalk there. See many bolts at Devils Tower? See many bolts on Mars? how about the moon? fuk, I hate work and ethicial debates.

now this is good thinking. I will charge $1 per bolt inquiery. pope will probably charge more. My main arguement is really making me old and tired... just don't bolt next to gear placements, why is that hard to grasp? If FA dies then I guess we can't get his permission so we are completely fuked on availability to get permission so really the answer in my most humblest opinion is NO, you can't add doggin bolts. And show me a 5.8 route that is more dangerous than a 5.12 route or even a 4th class route. If you fuk up and fall you will get hurt or even killed. Climbing is dangerous...all instruction manuels remind us of that if you read the entire book, that is...

girls are good. and living with two is better. but my sister is the best...ahhh, i miss my little sister. (EDIT: and if any of fuks accuse me of you know with the little sis, I will personally kick your disgusting mind into next week...along with my army of darkness!) well, now that you live here lets go to index. perhaps today?

not if I set time bombs to blow the rocks to smitherings when I die.

no, i slept on ice last week.

gys- you live in redmond now?

Why do we need to bring up the past mistakes or ethics to come to an understanding about the way we as a climbing community promote future climbing? Sure in the past, bolts were placed spaced closely...look at the DEB OF SEWS. Aid then, now an easy alpine -11. Routes were crowded in between other routes too. Look at the Grand Central Tower Slab area (80's development I think) at the Peshastin Pinnacles. White Lightening is very close to the Easier 5.10 routes and also near a 5.8 bolt fest. The facts are simple. Bolts placed nearby gear protection is wrong and pathetic. Bolting the toprope problem is gay and self-riteous. Right, I don't have to clip these bad-bolts. Yes, I could go pull them. BUT, why do YOU have to PUT THEM THERE in the the first place. IF you are not bold enough to climb the route without a bolt next to the questionable RP or expanding flake placement then DONT FUKING CLIMB THE ROUTE. And go practice the rope trick game of route climbing on some other rock. IT is a rock and we are only wasting time.... Like this bickering....wasting time.

Kat, the first pic of you leading is nice. But seriously, what is with the use of "slow draws?" Where are those nice "quick draws" someone gave you? Anyrate, way to go mike and kat!!