bwrts

do you sleep much mike?

Fred et al. has been to the top (at least twice) and they used aid and rope toss with prusik to surmount the summit block. I also tried to go up this wide crack but wimped out and brought my mentor, cappellini, up to show me how to grovel up. Never been more afraid of watching someone go up and down a wide-crack feature. The #5 camalot was pretty tipsy. The bolt, I think is what, Fred used to fix the rope over to the other side for prusik ascent. Nice work on the rest though...fun climbing indeed!

Because that is what we do in America. Tear the old sheit down and replace with modern ("better") designs. Usually because technology has advanced in materials, but also because we need new projects to keep the machine running. Having a catastrophe is sometimes the only way big business can kick start a new project. Perhaps this will be the only way to fix the viaduct...when it falls down from an earthquake or on its own.

i am not a geo engineer. most engineers fit your definition rudy. I do agree tho, the geo-eng random numbers is mind boggling at times...the real world laughs at most designs but then again the new designs are prooving "safer!" now where are those figures beyotch!?!

That's right (archenemy) we need to study this more. Please send all donations to my company. We will provide more reports on what we think should be done to make this safe and unimpacting to everyone. Unfortunately, the city balked years ago when the US government offered the money to improve public transportation (ie train, subway, whatever). Atlanta snatched the offer, where as Seattle needed to further study the impacts. I think that all took place 30 or so years ago. Now, we are staring down a loaded shotgun. The viaduct is ready to collapse. Whatever the govt. decides for this challenge, you can be sure bus rider or not you will be affected traveling around Seattle. Then there is the good ole 520 bridge... WE as a city need more alternative transportation that does not rely on roads. And WE need to start now. Even if the monorail fails this time (4th times the charm i guess) and the gas tax gets shot down, our govt needs to pull there head outa their ass and start spending money appropriately.

Yes, poor money management and planning has seriously hurt a neat idea...oh well, I made money on this beast so whatever. Seattle's infrastructure is the worst little big city I have ever seen. Light rail is cool too but takes up more room in the long run. I think this project should continue so my company can conduct more geotech and environmental explorations. Also, I would love to ride the monorail from home to work. I hate busses, so until there is an alternative like the Bay area BART system, I will continue to add to the freeway mess with one more single occupant vehicle.

Price now lowered by $25!! And if the ski wicket picking of locks worries you take the 25 you are now saving and by a padlock.

His name is Peter Doorish. There are many people who do this and don't even tell about their exploits. Mox does look like a cool mt of trashy bad rock. More people should go there. Then the good rocks will be less crowded.

Climbed first by Pete Doorish, yes. But it was rated much easier as there apparently was more rubble in the crack or he went around the hard part of the dihedral (looked feasible). Regardless, this is a fun route, just a very long approach. I always referred to it as the Doorish Dihedral but who cares anyways....

is this a new story or in reference to the vandal of fontainebleau years ago?

true, but as I said, I know no details other than I heard some climbers had big plans and gear stashes along the way.

Lucky, when did I spray? you are the one spraying. Furthermore, I used to go to the coulee quite often (camping, climbing and partying) but as I said before, the amount of climber abuse had disEnchanted me. I am sticking to the statement about camping there only due to this over-abuse the area has experienced. Perhaps it is time to explore new areas in the greater basaltic scabland. BTW- gys, seriously, I once saw dirtbikes below sunshine wall. was that you pre-climbing days?

I agree an A is an A. However timing is everything and in the "real" world if you are late, a lot of times it is better to not even show up again. In my short experience as a geology consultant, I have noticed the laziness and resourse/time-wasting in the unionized construction world. This is amazing to me and really a great shame in our society. Back when I used to swing a hammer in Ltown, the philosphy of the contractors I worked for was all about production and conservation of the materials as MONEY was the object collected in the end. Time is money. Sure we took breaks but, criminey, the amount of waste compared to big business construction is staggering. Even if you factor in the job-size difference. All said, Gary, I think tardiness and truency should not matter for lectures, although rude and disrespectful. Make being there a requirement with random morning bonus quizes and the good 'ole exam question only covered in class is sure to keep most students on time and present everyday. Turning in assignments late should definitely be down-graded, as timing in life is everything.

north bend?

huh, so that is where the penny came from... I wish there would have been one on IC, cuz ole scotty would have had one winging down on him from great heights! Wayne- not agreeing or disagreeing about picket traverse and the FA but PP has a point and I do remember hearing about some team back around '99 going for a bigger enchainment then just the northern pickets. They apparently had gear stashes to incorperate traversing the pickets down through the Ptarmigan, maybe further. I can't recall if they were successful or not. My friend in Bham (who i am fairly sure does not visit this site) may know the answer and I will try to ask sometime. (perhaps Dylan Taylor can too, as I know he climbed with my statistics prof, Josh back then). Either way, in noway am I belittling the great effort and nice line you and company followed. Too bad that area was not granite!!!!!

craig, are you saying my friends and I about 10 years ago imagined driving from leavenworth, got to the turn by the old "gas station" (long since fell down and removed) on old vantage highway and were not told by the three patrol cars to go home as 'there is no camping or climbing or plain 'ole driving past us down here this weekend?' perhaps you just were not there that weekend, or your memory is fading old man. and where is there a gate mentioned as currently being there? my statement meant I can see it happening in the future...

cbs- Gyselinck lives in redmond. Read his Loc. I think they should ban camping there too. However, enforcing that would be costly and not feasible for an already tapped government agency. I could see them just gating the area completely. Sometimes the county closes the coulee to all visitors during concerts; I once drove from Ltown to climb, only to turn around and go home, pissed but what can you do? In the past decade, climber abuse has noticeabley increased in the coulee. I have witnessed this and have become jaded towards Frenchman's due this reason. Also, gys is right about dumping occurring pre-climbing area.

Jon that's not Barbara Bush. Go back to watching tv, and now I'm serious too! Laura, jon, Laura. I must say though, now we definitely know where the brains in the shrub family come from...

Matt, You over-analyze way too much. Please quit trying to make this website like the rest of the way America is going...into the toilet. The humor that has been banned from this site is really utter bullshit. Anonymous Avatars should exist and if the person does not want to you to know who they are is there business. This is one real freedom we have... Lawyers like you are being is why are country is fuking fuked. Kurt, Please quit calling me names. You are a jerk and I wish your moderator priveledges were revoked.

Really now. I have heard this climb requires some unique body tension and technique. not doubting you completely but do these climbers actually climb OW? I also know yoder did it a couple times (saw him climb it once from a distance, so perhaps he tugged gear, I don't know, nor really give a flying pig ). <-- last part is for RumR But to answer your question, the world may never know... as many people (I think) don't care as they climb only for themselves...not recognition in any book or climbing journal.

I wonder how colin is doing without his "new" boots that he forgot in Fred's car... i am sure just fine.

ask larry the llama or erik's boss: wallstein.

geek, for sure we can not determine the fate of this route on the net... I agree with this statement from JosephH: unrestrained, the path will lead to (grid) "over-bolting" of every (unprotected) crag over the course of coming years... and I will add this will only lead to the "DARK SIDE" and this will lead you to "HELL"

I will add the routes on goat are "well protected" but no where near the protection frequency seen on routes like condormorphine addiction (condor buttress).

Ask Chris Sharma about clipping the crux bolts on the route called "realization" in France. Apparently, he took repeated "whippers" while trying to redpoint the route prior to his success a few years ago. cbs- how would "chipping" make a climb harder?