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Everything posted by bwrts
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Now that would make a great guidebook.....I-5 must doS! too late: already taken mr Layton.
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Sweet thanks for sharing. I am leaving for truckee to climb this weekend with erik and sara in 4hrs.........hopefully Lovers Leap, Donner and Eagle something will fit in to our already busy schedule of NOT working!
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Click here for more details.
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Click here for short term or here for other short term or for long term OR Here for very long term. Hope this helps will.
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beating the dead fukn horse.... rudy, you are such a lippy little tool. who gives a fuk how big the ledge is...you are not getting the point. Historically the ropes were shorter, cams were non-existant or smaller and chalk was still aid. My boss called just a sec ago and says tell that rudy dork to get those numbers crunched so we can finish the foundation design to the bridge across northern portion of Lake Washington.....
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this is just a mere tease of other nice rock in area....ahhahahahha
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Assuming that they used 120' ropes they could have reached the belay above the roof. I bet they were using 150'. In any event a review of some photos of the FA shows that the leader had a beefy haul/rap line tied to his harness. The bolts I mentioned are not on Stern Farmer but are located just to the right. They lead up to a horizontal break. Has this gone free? and if they had 150' ropes could they rap to the ground with out the haul/rap line visible in the photos? Honestly, the bolts have prooven useful to me but I clipped the anchor in disgusted retreat due to the proximity to the crack. Yet, if I would have had the gumption to conitnue and attempt the difficult Full Pitch 1, I would have done so by clipping the lower down anchor/short pitch 1 anchor. This to me, is legal since the bolts are there long ago. I do support removal and relocation. Realistically would a relocation proove useful or accessable for someone climbing the short pitch??
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what about the molar chimney? anyone climbed this? it looks neat but I hear the rock may be skank.
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Furthermore, A complete WASTE of TIME and ENERGY.
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based on the pictures...I would say any of them.
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Your right matt m, I left the bar and decided to log on to some cc.com bar talk. Anchors were set were they were long ago due to rope lengths being wwwwwaaay shorter than the so-called LTW "70m rope of choice" so this arguement really is mute. I find it necessary to bitch about the removal of one bolt but not the other. Bolt by crack is a atrocity that should be dealt with by person who removed first bolt. Lower down anchor should be placed in blank section of wall so when Dave Grahmn comes to send some sick new testpiece "He will have a new RAD project." okay now back to my beer drinking......................
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dude, who ever painted over the jesus saves and playboy bunney should be shot. those were there many years ago and have significance to historical reality...
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hey great effort...there is a nice chunk of stone there.... have you guys seen cole lately???
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Don't play that game, for every moderate you name I can name twice or three times as many hard routes. Besides, there are not many more moderates than you listed above. Sure, but for every hard route you can name (and who can't?), you can probably find a point 40 feet up at which, if you built an anchor next to the crack, you'd get a "new" moderate free pitch. Does that make Index a better place to climb? Or does that accelerate the transformation of Index into the Exit 38 of US 2 ? complete bullshit retoric. just pull the anchor, step up and send or go home and eat wheaties. course, who is to say what is a "pitch"... how long of a rope constitutes one rope length up and anchor me here so to speak....natural features or where billyboy and marysue decide to leave permanent anchor???? bolting next to cracks of any size is gay anyways......perhaps lower down anchor needs to be relocated.
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and both summits have been mounted. nice shots of the "crack."
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Break out the shrink wrap!
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[TR] Orange Tower- Orange Wall (New routes) 7/16/2006
bwrts replied to AlpineMonkey's topic in Alpine Lakes
WTF does "kind of" mean? I thought it was in the knitting needles, which makes it Stuart Range, mos def. Another fine job btw. Gawd I Hate my Job. -
Is this where the nasty ice occasionally forms during the winter?
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[TR] Lighthouse Tower- West and East Face 8/29/2006
bwrts replied to AlpineMonkey's topic in Alpine Lakes
what about the already placed 1/4 " w/o hanger next to OW..? I vote leave it the way it is and buy/bring a big cam... Nice work craig. Man that eface is great. Your line looks very similar to where dan and i ventured. Cheers -
This is the real mountains..... K.I.S.S.............
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I agree with Matt P on the beckey route. If your totally green in the WAPASS area, this has all the spice that won would encounter in the WAPASS area, so the experience would mos def be devirginizing. PLUS it was my own cherry popping mountain experience in the area...years ago with MitchM...so I suppose I am jaded. Another good one is the SouthFace of Kaga Temple.
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the meltdown was good fun and the girls were not all hippies!
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[TR] Pernod Spire- Indirect West Face 8/4/2006
bwrts replied to DirtyHarry's topic in North Cascades
hey the words were all blended together in the photos....and like the LSD would not let me focus...so question for you...do you all really think I did or did not know the answer already but instead created this little idea that I don't read between the lines. btw: Flowmotion summer Meltdown 2006 in Darrington kicked fuking ass....Flowmotion, critters buggin trio, kj sawka, march 4th marching band, zilla, vince herman, bshorty....and more music that rocked plus 40 acres of woods to go fear and loathing dtown style in and lots of fun shiney happy lovey people....plus one special girl from Vancouver, BC. -
good fing luck....those foot holds will be tuff without shoes.