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Everything posted by bwrts
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[TR] Pernod Spire- Indirect West Face 8/4/2006
bwrts replied to DirtyHarry's topic in North Cascades
Fuk off pete. i dont care anymore. I am going to racha for tiger salad goodness. -
[TR] Pernod Spire- Indirect West Face 8/4/2006
bwrts replied to DirtyHarry's topic in North Cascades
hey man, i just looked at the pics cuz dan gave me the deets on the phone but from the words I read it seemed as you summited the main tower....did you or did you not? not that it fukin matters either way.... -
crimp and go up
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fu u f f who wishes they f still lived in f washington
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erik still sprays here..... if you want good ole spray like the ole days from cavey, army, sisu and the rest of the hood then go to the new and improved ascenionist.com Cheers and happy trails...i am finally on vacation till tuesday!
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Soon we will have to fly naked. Hmmmmm, what does that mean for in flight service?
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I don't think it is much different than those guys who work a route on top rope so that they can get a hard solo in. Still pretty damn impressive, since whne they do pull it off there isn't any foam just a lot of air time and dirt. THANK YOU KEN! Stupid human trix rule!
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[TR] Pernod Spire- Indirect West Face 8/4/2006
bwrts replied to DirtyHarry's topic in North Cascades
i dont know about that peter, I think ol' ron has room to talk here... its not like I am that pissed Kev...just fuking call. oh and btw pete, did you guys summit or not??...i am confused from dan's phone account vs. your tr. course I did not read the TR very carefully either.... -
scott, you can send this route...cheers, Ben
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and people who climb "hard" don't practice either... both are merely stupid human tricks....and trix are kids...but whatever................. FUCKING KANGAROOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hey TrogdortheBurninator...step up and show us how easy it is to send a dbl into the foam pit..
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holy crickets man...I am sorry If I insulted you. YOU must be talking about the GRADE.... I guess if your craggin world is based out of Tennessee (like your location states) then, yeah I can believe you about craggin not involving loose rock, lichen, approach and whatever location means (south or north slope?)...but then perhaps craggin to you is buying an instruction manual and clipping bolts. I really don't know... as many times in the past, I suppose I was too vague and confusing with my simple statement... alpine is not harder...its just between your ears man...basically, a lame excuse. CBR is a hard route (hence the 5.11+/12- YDS rating) and furthermore described as a GRADE IV rock outing...or ONE hella long day. And actually, refering to my Beckey instruction Manual for CBR the chimney pitch (that produces much complaints and bitching about being sandbagged) is refrenced as 5.9 in the topo...
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wow, if this is true...... what a fuking looser....if he only would have let up a bit on the fatefull day and not won by so much maybe they would have not become so suspect...but then I do believe all stage winners are guarenteed a day in the lab. any rate, it really is too bad....
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[TR] Pernod Spire- Indirect West Face 8/4/2006
bwrts replied to DirtyHarry's topic in North Cascades
yeah way to go cappellini, rat and specialED, err, I mean dirtyHarry. My partner never called on sunday for my adventure plans nor did any last minute frantic phone calls pan out.... so, I ended up really drunk in belltown. fuking hate that sheit... ALL PEOPLE<<<< if you must bail on a trip...call your partner at least.... -
alpine is not harder.. a rating is a rating.... and most people know that "5.8" chimney shit is a bit sandbagged... course if you ask cappellini, I bet he may disagree on the sandbagged...just merely state your chimney technique is subpar for 5.8.
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powerhound... IN the alpine world where less is better... the use of 1/4" expansion bolts is due to the less amount of effort (energy) needed to drill the hole. using modern 1/4" expansion bolts is way better than the old skool button heads or expansion bolts...likewise the hangers are better....smc's and leepers (especially) should be clipped with a bit a skepatism. I know I always shutter when clipping the old 1/4" bolts so widespread in the alpine world but shit damn; its better than nothing...
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1/4 bolts/bits = same place you buy 3/8 hangars...good ones at MEC/vancouver, BC... I would think Nelsen carries them at his shop.
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That place is great old-school slab climbing that does not get the traffic it deserves....some bolts need upgrading and the sunrise crack apears to be somewhat reclaimed by a bit of lichen; however, the slab climbing is real good training for big runouts found in many other slab areas.... course, the more people that go, the more polished it will get and then it will all be harder and need to be upgraded...or whatever.... Note: the routes do not need more bolts just some need upgrading....scary smc hangers on buttonhead style 3/8" bolts...
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fuk yeah...looks like a very stellar trip was had by you. thanks for sharing!
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matt- ever try the library?
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is some of the photos in the temple area or were you only in the cirque.. can't beat the approach trail to the cirque tho... but that road...i gots a few tails about the dirt road. thanks for the photos. love the wind.
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black with two leg loops and a some gear loops.
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A MUST read for anyone who gives a shit about their own future and the fate of our existence.