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flashclimber

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Everything posted by flashclimber

  1. I still haven't found my quickdraw! Maybe I should check the lost and found at the UW engineering program.
  2. I think this post is finally dead!
  3. I never did get an answer...anybody climb it lately. How big of pieces do u need to climb it...Hate to head up the route with too few large pieces...and could it be freed? Or can I French-aid some of it? I actually would like to climb it!
  4. About a year ago several friends and I were walking back from Heart of the Country when we were stopped by a group of 7-8 people on quads. They asked us if we saw anything fall from the top of the upper wall. Then they asked how to get to the base of the upper wall. After a few probing questions they confessed one of their quads "lost its brakes" and went over the top of the upper wall. They wanted to retrieve as many parts as possible. One guy was pretty shaken up. He said he dove off the quad before it went over. Havent seen any falling quads since!
  5. Ok..A few things before I leave on vacation....Cunning Stunt/Snake Dike Reference...I was trying to say that even 30 years or more ago people were thinking about the safety of a route that could become very popular. Making a route safe the masses will most likely be trying, should be a concern of the FA. To those FA's who put up 5.8 X and R rated routes...Well I say dont bother taking credit. If your looking for the adreniline high...go put up a 5.12 X and get all taste in your mouth you need (just watch the guy in Front Line Freaks, I don think he expects anyone to ever repeat his route)...But if you put up a 5.8 - 5.10 route which has death written all over it...well that falls on your head. No matter if you say "Well dont climb it duh." Remember, its public land...and people will be climbing on it. Climbing should have some risks...however gumbies are looking for any route below a 5.10 and will most likely get on ur "piece of crap route." I have climbed up at Static Point and I find the 50 foot runoutes there, very reasonable...Yes it will hurt if you slide..but the fall most likely wont kill you...Taking a 200 foot slide on a "piece of crap route" actually might send u into tumble that will likely cause you serious injury or even death. That's why I had put up the reference to Snake Dike earlier. They went back and added a few bolts to make it safer. Cunning Stunt was also retro-bolted. Maybe it didn't need that many bolts, but if you fall from the expanding flake, and have a piece of gear behind the flake, chances are that it will become permanently lodged there. Im more worried about the ingrity of the rock than the actual danger of the fall. My reference to 24 hour Bucaneer...I dont know if you have been on the route or not...But it could be nice Index 11b test piece if it didn't have the R rating. A new pin and a bolt just under the mantle would save you from a ground fall. Just my 2 cents. Its a calculated risk Im not willing to take when there are so many 11's I'd rather climb at Index. I guess it doesn't matter if you are the FA or not...Someone will always come along later and "enhance" your route with bolts, pin scars, or other means. But if I put up a route that I knew could kill someone because I was to lazy, cheap, or looking for a high, I'd make the proper changes to correct it!
  6. Actually I believe that if you made a route so unsafe by placing scary pins, so few bolts, and questionable gear, then its your responsibility to make it safe...This was the case of Snake Dike in Yosemite if u read up on it. Some would say no, but then again why would you want to climb some piece of crap route some guy created just to please his adrenile rush for the week. Its a waste of a route that could have been decent if created properly! Maybe thats why I wont lead 24 hour bucaneer. A 20 year old rusted pin, with 15 foot runout protected afterwards with RP's. Think Ill pass! Even tho the route would have been killer! No pun intended.
  7. Even with the FA blessing, its always possible someone might come by and chop your bolts...ie Cunning Stunt!
  8. My friend and I were up at Index today going for the Redpoint on Climax Control. For those who are unfamiliar with Index this is just right of the Cave (Heart of the Counrty area) and close to the the route called "The 5th Force." I went up to the crux and took a 10-12 foot fall. I asked to be lowered to make a 2nd attempt on the route. When I pulled the rope I noticed the 7th bolt was clean. There was no quickdraw left on it. My buddy asked me if I had cleaned that bolt when I was lowered. I didn't. I had just lowered and didn't touch anything. We thot maybe the draw had been knocked to the side and our visual was a little blurred. So Doug went up for his attempt. When he got to the 7th bolt it was missing the quickdraw. All the other 8 bolts had draws, only the 7th bolt was missing the draw. He placed a new draw on the bolt and finished the route. When he got down we looked around for the draw. Nothing to be found. Whats odd is that when I pulled the rope nothing came down with the rope. I definetly would have heard it clanking off the side of the wall if it fell. And I'm positive I would have seen it. We checked and counted the draws again. We went up with 11 draws and ended up with 10. And for those wondering it was a wiregate biner that clipped the bolt and a large DMM biner for the lower. I've heard of weird things happening before around that cave but a diappearing quickdraw?
  9. Whats with the bolt? Is it old? Is the picture skewed in some way? Cause if he's hand jamming he should be able to place a cam. (Not trying to start something...just curious)
  10. Had someone tell me they took a rack off a couple of Meth Heads up there. PM me if u really lost it...A business in town is holding the rack. Better be able to identify it...u can figure out the rest.
  11. Im sure MEC put them back on the shelf by now! By the way I checked out mine (BD's) and a buddies from 1st generation and on...1st generation gives the least...after that they start to give more and more with each generation....As long as they keep holding my falls, I'll keep on using them!
  12. Anyone have their climbing rack or part of their rack stolen from Index between March - July?
  13. By chance are u going to clean all the dirt off the cliff from Jap Gardens to Thin Fingers...Its quite the mess! I used my shirt to slap off the dirt on 2nd Pitch of Jap Gardens just so I could finish. Godzilla was a disaster took my buddy 30 mins of knocking loose dirt off the holds so he could climb the first 3rd of the climb. If u clean the top...u should clean the bottom! Besides that Im looking forward to the link-up...Should be pretty cool when its finished.
  14. I also saw u guys on the route... a group of 6 of us headed over and did the first 2 pitches of Jap gardens and Godzilla. That drizzel had us a little worried at first...but then again its Index. Only been rained out once in 6 years! What a great day!
  15. Just climb Godzilla. U can place gear ina different spot every time...and u can climb it a different way each time. Every experience can be new on Godzilla...ahahhahahahahhah
  16. University Wall goes clean.
  17. Since I free soloed the first 25 feet up to the roof last year...do get the FA? Hahahaha
  18. I've seen a copy of Fossil rock guide book at REI...think its $10.00....smoots should be good enough....U can reach Marlene Ford or Jim Yoder who authored the Fossil Guide...Yoder put most of the routes up in Fossil Rock Area. Look in their Vantage book for a contact (e-mail address)...Im sure they have a few copies of Fossil Rock Guide Book around...Or save some money and use the smoot book!
  19. This route is to the far left side of Quarry area. Once u pass Thin Fingers...go up the trail about 25 yards...The rout looks all trad..only bolts are the anchors. The roof looks like fun...Looks dirty tho.
  20. Looking for beta on a route I spotted at Index today. Its to the left of Quarry Crack...has a 25 foot slab/crack section...then u work a 15 foot roof until u hit an anchor. A friend of mine and I spotted this route last year. Went up today and saw someone had put the anchors up. Anyone know anything about it?
  21. Anyone ever get caught climbing on Wedgewood Rock? Looks like there could be some killer boulder routes on it...But $100 fine would also be a killer!
  22. I almost stepped on it...3 blue eggs still in it?
  23. Not much dirt to give....It rained and rained and rained.
  24. Hey Hey...Nothing to worry about. Ed and I went to Squamish a couple weeks ago and got rained out....Saw the pics and wanted to know if it was him...Thats the 3rd time i've seen photos posted of a friend of mine that I just happend upon.
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