flashclimber

Nevermind Wall at 38x is good after a rain. Most of it stays dry.

Here is the breakdown what I heard about the accident and what I saw first hand. I used the Youtube video as a reference point: Min 1:45 Where climber came to rest and was dangling. Blood all over rock Min 2:40 Where chalk was present and most likely where climber struck and bounced off rock Min 3:35 Where we rocovered the cam which held the fall Min 4:10-4:22 Loose flake area Min 4:27-4:45 Where we were told the last 2 pieces of gear where placed (the ones that popped out) Min 5:38 Where he fell? I was told this is where he fell. But I have doubts that he was this high when he fell. I believe the injury would have been greater. And that's the best I can do to fully illustrate what I saw, heard, and observed. Still waiting for climber to reply.

Alright I had to add this, I know self promotion for my YouTube account, but what the hell. Here is a video of a buddy of mine making his redpoint attempt on Rogers Corner...Warning it is the full climb. This is the top range of his ability to climb at Index. Try to pin point where the accident happened. Note: I was present for the rescue of the climber. Several of us kept going back to the scene to get info...Then we climbed the route right after to see if we could pin point what happened. I took the info at hand and then climbing the route to come up with my hypothesis. Best I could do without being a Monday Morning Armchair Quarterback like a few people we know.

Standing in my driveway, watching a large plume of smoke coming up from the mountain. Was pissed off. It delayed my Disneyland trip by a month.

Update: I was told the female belayer had a significant rope burn on her brake hand. Something to think about. She caught his fall tho.

Not to get off topic but, eventually that tree will come down. Either by nature or by someones tool. I have to admit I really like the anchors at the top. Tat is ugly, and a couple anchors that allow a more direct rap off of Rogers and a more direct belay for Breakfast and Marginal is soooooooo much better! No worries, somone will take a wrench up sometime next week and tighten that bolt.

After the accident (and the blood on the rock dried), several of us went up Rogers Corner to see if we could find out what happened. We didn't find any loose flakes or damaged rock. The second piece of gear he placed (red C4 cam) was still in the rock. That piece held his fall and was solid. The 3 of us made every effort to figure out what might have happened. I (just me, not the others in the party) have to believe the accident was a result of the following: 1. Bad choice of cams 2. Bad choice of gear placements (loose rock or expanding flakes) 3. Bad choice not to place enough gear on a potential climb where u may (and can) deck. There are hundreds of solid placements all over the upper pitch section. There is even a fixed piece still there. Godzilla also has several areas that could cause a climber to potentially deck. I believe its always best to place enough gear to avoid decking if u fall (obvious statement haha). It seems that climbs with the lower grades always have more potential for a climber to get hurt (another obvious statement). Glad the climber is ok. Be safe.

Was at Index today. Spent about 30 mins cleaning up the rockfall in front of Godzilla. I attempted to make the trail safe for foot traffic. I may need a hammer to pound out some sharp edges. Be careful. I trundled the flake off of Godzilla while I was at it. It looked loose! hahaha

I've climbed the lower crux 3 different ways. For a "True on-sight" I would give it a 10d for LTW and 11- if it was anywhere else.

How long is the approach? For a real time couch bum who likes to drive right up to the crag! haha Seriously tho...how long does it take?

This one inspires me...well it inspires something! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-n6STkRUYPw

My guess is "Pure Palm?"....I found a patrner to go with me Sun - Wed...You are welcome to join us if you want. There is always room for another person. Call me if interested.

Seriously...does anyone out there want to go?

Sounds Good. You both are welcome to come. My plan is to be back in Seattle on April 1st by 7PM. I have room for 5 in my car. I can drive. Call me. At 206-802-5625. (Anytime after 11AM). Gabe

Anyone up for some Index climbing tomorrow from 11:30AM - 6PM? I have gear, car, and will ropegun for the day. Gabe (206)802-5625

I am looking for a Climbing partner for Mar 28 thru April 1st. I would like to go to Smith, Skaha, or even Vantage. Some or all of the days. I have a vehicle, gear, and am willing to be the ropegun. Trad or sport, single or multipitch, I don't care. I climb 10-11's and don't mind spending time on 5.8's to 5.9's for my partner. Serious replys only. No Flakes! Sick of last minute cancellations. Thanks Gabe

I may be available March 28,29,30, and April 1st to go to Smith. Looking to climb 10-11's trad or sport. If your interested.

Oh. I forgot to mention. On the third picture you can see cliffs over the water. Loads of fun climbing up and jumping off into the water.

If you go, bring a pair of shoes and a chalk bag. You wont be sorry if you do. I've found tons of boulders around Cabo and on the beach. When Im there, I prefer the water sports and the sight seeing. But thats gets old after about 7 days so I go searching for something to climb. Enjoy!

Where? Looks like rain tomorrow.

Did anyone notice any anchors or bolts that needed to be replaced on either wall? I May(hint) be up there during the next nice weather stretch and do some work.

I was sitting here watching American Idol and got bored, So Im posting an old trip to Cabo San Lucas where I actually climbed in the morning before it hit 100 degrees. Sorry there isnt many climbing pics, but thats what happens when ur soloing by yourself. People started chasing shade right where I wanted to climb! A view of the beach One of the few rock climbing walls in a bathroom. I give it a V1 rating. A pic of my wife on the way out to the beach Those darn tattoos

I don't have the splitter cams, but I do have a full set of the flex cams. I use them as my 3rd set for aid climbing. They work great for easy placements.

Where are the moderators? SPRAY!!!!!!!!

He is married with 2 kids. Move on!