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flashclimber

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Everything posted by flashclimber

  1. The lynnwood REI doesnt have any of them...I checked them out last week. Sales guy said buy them on the internet to make sure u get the size u want.
  2. Hopefully they are for real this year...then maybe that guy from the TV show "Taxi" can take a shower! For all you Taxi fans...if you remember...he said he wouldn't take a shower until the Seahawks won a Superbowl....30 years baby without a shower!
  3. I guess Ill have to make a stil and make my own grain alcohol. Im sure my motorcycle will run on it! but then I'll have to grow my own corn and wheat. And then I'll need a tractor to harvest it. And the cycle goes on. Maybe I'll just move to Index and live like a hippy!
  4. Actually working. Unlike many of you!
  5. There's a loose block at the top of Marginal Karma. Gonna try to remove it this winter when no one is around. It wont affect the grade/rating. But it will make the route safer and less spooky for those below the block.
  6. Hey I saw you guys up there. My buddy and I went over to the Heart of the Counrty in hopes to get on something. Looked like you guys were on the only dry climb in Index. We were debating if you were on Breakfast or Marginal. From where we were standing we put our money on Breakfast. Glad you guys had fun. We spent the next 2 hours in Monroe traffic, Bothell traffic, and then Ballard traffic trying to make it to the gym. $20.00 in gas later and all I got was a little gym tendonitis!
  7. Ok guys what did you accomplish this Summer? Did you get finish your projects? Lets here it...time to brag!
  8. Dont bother asking on this site...everyone will have a different opinion. The problem is the biggest mouths usually cant even climb 5.11...So just stick with those who can actually climb 5.12 or have climbed the route. If the FA gave permission to protect the route by adding 1 single bolt cause a key flake might have come off...Well I say do it. Sometimes its better just to add the bolt and not say anything after getting permission...Cause its not like any of the loud mouths will ever climb it anyways...plus they wouldn't even know if you added the bolt. PM me if you add it...Ill probably be up there and give it red-point attempt this Fall if it looks safe!
  9. Not a bad site..needs more substance tho...maybe even a mission statement of why you call the site Climb4God. Just a thought.
  10. Come on guys...Did you read the last line? I was just making the point that he has wasted too much of his life on this site! All in good humor of course.
  11. I know this belongs in the Spray forum, but stay with me for a moment. I'm trying to figure out how much time Dru has spent on Cascadeclimbers since he registered on 02/08/01 So I calculated the days up till now - 1663 days Then I checked how many posts he's added - 27008 I estimated how much time he reads and then places a post (corrections and all) on average - 5 mins Then I did the math... 27008 * 5 = 135,040 minutes or 2250.66 hours or 93.7 days I figure Dru has spent 81.20 minutes a day and everyday(135,040 minutes/1663 days) for the past 5 years on this website. And I just want the last 5 minutes of my life back!
  12. I believe CC put it in his guide page 32 route #280 "Pr R start to Phone Calls, 2 bolt holes drilled." I also remember 2 holes listed on the topo. Anyways....DC I also remember your name being on the FA for the Variation TR. Any reason it was never finished as a Full on Mixed/Bolted route? And what do you think about updating the bolts and adding the 2 bolts to the route? Ill check the route out on Thurs...Last time I checked (couple years ago) the bolts were 1/4". Anyone know if they have been updated?
  13. Anyone know why the Phone Calls From the Dead Variation (Index - Heart of Country Area - to the Right of the start) was never finished? Cummins listed that 2 bolt holes were drilled but never filled. DC listed the Variation as a TR that was done by three people. Im curious why no one ever put the 2 bolts in: a Mixed route to the left and a sport route to the right (on knobs). Oh Yeah...what would you guys think if I added the 2 bolts to finish the variation? Do I get a FA if I do, and lead it?
  14. I still haven't found my quickdraw! Maybe I should check the lost and found at the UW engineering program.
  15. I think this post is finally dead!
  16. I never did get an answer...anybody climb it lately. How big of pieces do u need to climb it...Hate to head up the route with too few large pieces...and could it be freed? Or can I French-aid some of it? I actually would like to climb it!
  17. About a year ago several friends and I were walking back from Heart of the Country when we were stopped by a group of 7-8 people on quads. They asked us if we saw anything fall from the top of the upper wall. Then they asked how to get to the base of the upper wall. After a few probing questions they confessed one of their quads "lost its brakes" and went over the top of the upper wall. They wanted to retrieve as many parts as possible. One guy was pretty shaken up. He said he dove off the quad before it went over. Havent seen any falling quads since!
  18. Ok..A few things before I leave on vacation....Cunning Stunt/Snake Dike Reference...I was trying to say that even 30 years or more ago people were thinking about the safety of a route that could become very popular. Making a route safe the masses will most likely be trying, should be a concern of the FA. To those FA's who put up 5.8 X and R rated routes...Well I say dont bother taking credit. If your looking for the adreniline high...go put up a 5.12 X and get all taste in your mouth you need (just watch the guy in Front Line Freaks, I don think he expects anyone to ever repeat his route)...But if you put up a 5.8 - 5.10 route which has death written all over it...well that falls on your head. No matter if you say "Well dont climb it duh." Remember, its public land...and people will be climbing on it. Climbing should have some risks...however gumbies are looking for any route below a 5.10 and will most likely get on ur "piece of crap route." I have climbed up at Static Point and I find the 50 foot runoutes there, very reasonable...Yes it will hurt if you slide..but the fall most likely wont kill you...Taking a 200 foot slide on a "piece of crap route" actually might send u into tumble that will likely cause you serious injury or even death. That's why I had put up the reference to Snake Dike earlier. They went back and added a few bolts to make it safer. Cunning Stunt was also retro-bolted. Maybe it didn't need that many bolts, but if you fall from the expanding flake, and have a piece of gear behind the flake, chances are that it will become permanently lodged there. Im more worried about the ingrity of the rock than the actual danger of the fall. My reference to 24 hour Bucaneer...I dont know if you have been on the route or not...But it could be nice Index 11b test piece if it didn't have the R rating. A new pin and a bolt just under the mantle would save you from a ground fall. Just my 2 cents. Its a calculated risk Im not willing to take when there are so many 11's I'd rather climb at Index. I guess it doesn't matter if you are the FA or not...Someone will always come along later and "enhance" your route with bolts, pin scars, or other means. But if I put up a route that I knew could kill someone because I was to lazy, cheap, or looking for a high, I'd make the proper changes to correct it!
  19. Actually I believe that if you made a route so unsafe by placing scary pins, so few bolts, and questionable gear, then its your responsibility to make it safe...This was the case of Snake Dike in Yosemite if u read up on it. Some would say no, but then again why would you want to climb some piece of crap route some guy created just to please his adrenile rush for the week. Its a waste of a route that could have been decent if created properly! Maybe thats why I wont lead 24 hour bucaneer. A 20 year old rusted pin, with 15 foot runout protected afterwards with RP's. Think Ill pass! Even tho the route would have been killer! No pun intended.
  20. Even with the FA blessing, its always possible someone might come by and chop your bolts...ie Cunning Stunt!
  21. My friend and I were up at Index today going for the Redpoint on Climax Control. For those who are unfamiliar with Index this is just right of the Cave (Heart of the Counrty area) and close to the the route called "The 5th Force." I went up to the crux and took a 10-12 foot fall. I asked to be lowered to make a 2nd attempt on the route. When I pulled the rope I noticed the 7th bolt was clean. There was no quickdraw left on it. My buddy asked me if I had cleaned that bolt when I was lowered. I didn't. I had just lowered and didn't touch anything. We thot maybe the draw had been knocked to the side and our visual was a little blurred. So Doug went up for his attempt. When he got to the 7th bolt it was missing the quickdraw. All the other 8 bolts had draws, only the 7th bolt was missing the draw. He placed a new draw on the bolt and finished the route. When he got down we looked around for the draw. Nothing to be found. Whats odd is that when I pulled the rope nothing came down with the rope. I definetly would have heard it clanking off the side of the wall if it fell. And I'm positive I would have seen it. We checked and counted the draws again. We went up with 11 draws and ended up with 10. And for those wondering it was a wiregate biner that clipped the bolt and a large DMM biner for the lower. I've heard of weird things happening before around that cave but a diappearing quickdraw?
  22. Whats with the bolt? Is it old? Is the picture skewed in some way? Cause if he's hand jamming he should be able to place a cam. (Not trying to start something...just curious)
  23. Had someone tell me they took a rack off a couple of Meth Heads up there. PM me if u really lost it...A business in town is holding the rack. Better be able to identify it...u can figure out the rest.
  24. Im sure MEC put them back on the shelf by now! By the way I checked out mine (BD's) and a buddies from 1st generation and on...1st generation gives the least...after that they start to give more and more with each generation....As long as they keep holding my falls, I'll keep on using them!
  25. Anyone have their climbing rack or part of their rack stolen from Index between March - July?
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