flashclimber

How about free climbing it. 11c 12a. Anyone ever do it?

What does the 3 O'clock Rock Area (Darrington) Great Arch crack go at? The crack right above the single 10a route. There are 2 old pins in the crack.

If your not bleeding, your not trying!

I was just surfing and came across this trip report of Davis Holland Loving Arms route from last year. Not Bad trip report with lots of pics. Davis Holland

No prob...Usually do..Just wondering if the routes were a little shorter on the South Buttress. Thanks for the info!

I do!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Call me at 206.802.5625 Gabe Leave message if I dont answer...will call u right back.

Anyone down for Darrington on Tuesday 8AM - 6PM? 3 O'Clock South Butress Area? Gabe 206.802.5625

Can Tidbits, Gastroblast, Till broad daylight, Cornucopia, and/or the Kone, at 3 O'Clock Rock South Buttress area be done with a single 70 meter rope?

You want to climb tomorrow Monday the 6th at Index? 11-6? Gabe 206.802.5625

The superfly variation looked pretty clean. You're right. The bolts were very close and it didnt look to intimidating. Maybe next time! Our ultimate goal was to finish Total Soul and then move on to Silent Running 5.9 if we had time. Rapping took longer than expected. So we called it the day.

Trip report 07/01/09 Area: Three O'Clock Rock, Darrington Area Route: Total Soul 5.10B So after staying in bed for the past 3 days with a head cold, my buddy Kevin decides we should still keep with our plans to do Total Soul at Three O'Clock Rock. I woke up around 7:45 PM with my ribs hurting from coughing all night. He stopped by at 8 and we drove up to Darrington with minimal traffic. We arrived at the trailhead around 9:30. This was my first visit to the 3 O'Clock Rock area. We had unsuccessfully attempted Dreamer twice in one year. (Another story...way too HOT that summer!). So I really wanted to complete the full route. We arrived at the base of the route around 10:30. My lungs were burning from the hike and the cough that would not go away. There was a small amount of snow at the base that made a great refridgerator for our spare water and food. Kevin took the first pitch rated at 5.6. It was a short and dirty. Besides the bolts, it took a few pieces of gear. The anchors on all the pitches are sport anchors except pitches 7 and 8. I took the second pitch 5.9. It was clean and fun. Kevin took the 3rd pitch 5.7. (The following 3 pictures.) I took pitch 4, 5.9 again. A nice piece of slab, very well bolted and gear placements are abundant (nuts or cams will work). The picture is Kevin coming up to the anchors of Pitch 4. Kevin took the First hard pitch (#5) on the route 5.10B. He cleared it with ease. The only real difficulty on this pitch is on the belay. The top of Pitch 4 is a hanging belay. If you have a belay seat, bring it! The large bush on the right is called the "Batman Bush". I took pitch 6. Another 5.10B. We both agreed that Pitch 6 was much harder than Pitch 5. There are a few moves you must really dedicate to. The picture is looking down Pitch 6. The belay on top of Pitch 6 isn't that great either. A belay seat would be nice there too! Kevin took pitch 7, a 5.8 dirty slab. It looks like most people bale after pitch 6. Kevin completed the pitch in style and I followed. The pictures are of the anchors and belay stance on top of pitch 7. The anchors are just 2 bolts and an old sling with no rap ring. It kind of forces you to move on to the next pitch or leave gear. Don't know why someone would do that, when all the other anchors were "sport" rap anchors. huh? I took on the last pitch. Another 5.10B. I found it quite fun. It was more face climbing than slab. You get to stand on a few "chicken heads" while reaching for small edges. The top of the route was quite dirty. I have to thank the person for putting in that last bolt. It would suck to have to clean out the crack to place a last piece of gear. The picture is the lower part of the route. We found the rap station. Well at least the two part rap station. It appears you rap off the top tree to the right for about 30 feet, then you rap off a second tree to the chain anchors below. I guess you could scramble down the little gully to the second lower tree. Here are some pictures of our rappel and some scenic pics. Well we made it in great time and had a lot of fun. Quite a fun route on a beautiful day! Only one injury to report. A small scrape to my arm when my foot slipped on the rock. Got home in time to play with the kid! This is a great route. If someone gets a chance maybe they can add a chain and rap ring to pitch 7's anchors!

Ok so here are the photos of my quick fix to my yellow master cam. You can see where I burned off the end and super-glued it for support. The imprint is either D 8 or U 8. Its hard to read. But then I was climbing the other day...and guess what I found? The yellow master cam on the left. BOOTY!!!! I'm thinking both cams may need new trigger strings. It took about 30 minutes to get the cam out of the rock.

So I was getting bored sitting around the office and house without a climbing partner so....

Anyone down for Index tomorrow from 11 - 5? 206.802.5625 Gabe

So I tried 2x to download new pics of the cam. Oh Well. The last ones were done with my phone camera. Thats explains the poor quality/blurry photos. I found a stamp on the cam "U 8." I'm guessing it was made in 2008. I fixed the cam well enough to use it, without any issues. I might stop by Metolius on my next visit to Smith Rocks to see if they will fix it for free. If not, Ill leave it as is or re-wire it with better quality materials. Thats my thoughts for now, but we'll see. With all this rain I might just call metolius to see what they say.

Lots of pilots around. Just pay for the gas money and they will fly you right over the wall. Bet you can get a hundred pictures on a nice digital SLR. Seriously, my co-worker is gonna take me out there in Fall when all teh leaves hit the ground. Taking a Digital SLR and HD production Video Camera. Speaking of Fund Raisers for Index, How about someone with PHOTOSHOP skills make a poster size photo of the lower town wall with Clint Cummins topos of the routes "superimpossed" over it? Kinda like the ones they sell of Yosemite. Cost to make in mass production about $5-10. Fund raiser cost $25.00. Bet it would raise a lot of money!

Still need a partner...Anyone?

June 10th 2:30 - 5:30 PM. Only 2 people in the whole park!

Well at least the cheap string they glued to it. Anyone else have this happen? This happened last week when I was climbing. I attempted to retrieve the cam and the string broke. I had to stick my finger around the lobes to get it out of the rock. When I bought the cam I knew this was gonna happen. Who uses super glue and string on a cam...Oh Yeah Metolius! Won't find any string on my Aliens! I fixed the cam by pushing the string back through the hole and burning off then end. Then I re-super glued the string... I backed up the string with a small wire. Works ok. Still pissed off tho!

No one yet. Give me a call.

Anyone up for climbing at Index tomorrow Thurs 6/18 around 11 - 6PM? Gabe 206.802.5625 Leave message if I dont answer..might be in a meeting, but will return call. NOTE: I have all the gear. I can do all the leading if necessary. I can teach how you how to lead climb and place gear if you want to learn. Please just know how to "Lead Belay"!

Lets see...it was sunny all day long around 70 degrees. Around 5:30 the clouds rolled in, cooled off to 65 degrees. And to top it off, there were only 2 climbers on the Lower Town Wall from 2:30 - 5:30...should have been there!

Anyone have the link to the Upper Town Wall Update that came out about a year or 2 ago. I remember it being a picture with several different colored lines on it with the routes.

Anyone want to climb at Index tomorrow 06/10 from 12-7ish. Or even clean a route, build a trail, etc? Call me at 206.802.5625. If not you can find me cleaning Gilligan's Toe (Inner Wall area).

I would appreciate if someone would clean "Gilligan's Toe" area for me...especially "Leaves and Grass" 10a/b and "Houseful of Hens" 11c. They are both quite mossy right now...haha...I've been cleaning several other routes up the rock and my sinus needs to recover!