sweatinoutliquor

This is actually a pretty good topic and I think a lot of good discussion has come out over it. Personally, I think having tricks like looping the rope over the top of your tool are good to have. Most important is not to take a fall. But, I think if I was climbing a route, I would want to hang using that trick to be my absolute last resort, and when I finished with that climb I would make sure to step it down a grade until I could climb it without having to rely on hanging. At least for me leading ice right at your fall limit is scary, which makes it less fun. I'd rather feel safe and comfortable leading something humbly within my abilities. Good discussion though!

Hey 311, I'd recommend vertical + 10-15 degrees overhung, or make one of those adjustable ones if your really savvy. Like RuMR says, vertical won't get you a workout, and too vertical and you will be spending all sorts of money buying holds that are appropriate for that type of wall (which seem to be larger and more $$). I think on the one I'm working on now I'm going to shoot for an angle that's somewhere between the two flat bouldering walls at the OSU gym in the corner by the cave. Good luck man! It's fun to have one at home for sure, especially if you can make it tall enough to string 5 or 6 moves together.

I'm suprised these tools haven't sold... It's a pretty good bargain from what I understand is a pretty exceptional tool (without having swung them myself). Wish I had the $ to make it happen!

Damn that's nice work gents! Way to get after it with the nice weather we had!

Thanks for the great report! Damn though, it looks like your bro is ripping tele turns on rime ice... Ugh! Nice work!

Dude, those are some tasty pics... Way to get out and get some lately. Nice blog too!

Interested in the ladders if Kletterhund bails. Good prices dude.

Thanks for the photos, looks like a beautiful morning to be out there.

Just a suggestion, but I find that bivy bags that have a zip down part of the side are extremely helpful... I've got a OR "toploader style" and it's such a pain to get into and out of to take a leak, etc. Also got a bibler bipod that is pretty rad... Bulkier and a bit heavier though.

I went to OSU, yes they have a cool climbing gym, but unless you are super driven, you will get sick of fighting the crowds and waiting in line to climb there. If you want to go cragging, you just gotta accept that you are looking at a hour and a half drive to choss, or 3+ hour drive to Smith. As a college student, I'm guessing you aren't going to have the $$ to pay to be going to smith every weekend. The drive also makes midweek climbing impossible if you actually plan to get anything accomplished at school. In my opinion, if climbing is really an important part of your school selection criteria, don't go to school in OR.

Whitewater usually isn't gated, but there has always been a healthy dose of the white stuff way before the trailhead this time of year. Sometimes trees across the road too. If I'm in the area I'll check it out and post back here.

Maybe I got a lemon, but my spot is a huge P.O.S. Light works great, but all the plastic parts seem to have broken

Just a thought, but the best GPS is the one that you are willing to take with you... I've got one of those garmin rino's with the built in radios... Thought I would use the radio feature all the time... Right... Probably only once. Anyway, the sucker seems to be heavier than it needs to be, and if I had to do it again I think I'd go for the smallest/lightest Garmin I could find (for example, the geko?). If it's small enough you can keep in in a pocket inside all that clothing next to where it's warm. Also, all that mapping software can be handy (especially for finding small roads), but really, you can program everything important right onto it in advance (using google earth!). I do admit that the ones with color screens are sweet though. Especially if you are really fired up about using the TOPO software.

Awesome writeup and pics John. and Also thanks for the advice on how to work vacation... I'm going to have to try that out...

Hey Robert... I tried to give you a ring but no answer... Maybe I'll try after lunch.

mO7pxR6YP8E If you haven't seen the movie Sur le fil des 4000 I STRONGLY recommend seeing it. I have no idea where you can find it, but here is a brief clip anyway, showing some absolutely stunning climbing in the alps. The story itself is remarkably sad, but beautiful at the same time (at least for me). If you don't speak french the first minute or two of the movie doesn't make much sense...

Interested in the 17 nuts, depending on what sizes and condition. Photo perhaps?

Dude, this is funny, but was just down in the valley over thanksgiving, and I was wondering around the camp 4 boulders trying to find a problem that I could do (totally suck at bouldering, didn't even have a pad or any idea what ratings were). I found this exact problem, took a look at it and thought "hmmm, doesn't look that steep on one side, lots of chalk on it... yeah, I got this no prob". Of course I couldn't even do one move. I'm back for two days and I find out that it was a climber who is much better than me's eight year project. Anyway, congrats man, and thanks for the great read!

to you ivan and ken. Good story as usual, and way to keep it together when the shit hits. Sounds like quite an adventure!

Call me a pansy, but if I can help it I try to avoid hood from November to March unless there hasn't been any significant precip in the previous 5 days or so... Frosting on the cake is if the mountain has been in the sun for a few days, or scoured by high winds. It's just too far of a drive for me to go up only to find out that avy/postholing conditions aren't conducive for an ascent. During those months I've really only considered routes accessed from Timberline (hogsback, west crater rim, leutholds, sandy, reid, wy'east). If you go up there in winter, bring skis and have a backup plan (like ski bowl or meadows).

Holy crap! Way to really spice things up on the decent! A big to you both for keeping it together and making it outta there safely. Great photos too. Thanks!

My heart goes out to Jim's family... Although I don't know him personally, I know for a fact that Jim's contributions to climbing in the northwest will NEVER be forgotten.

I'm not sure what "sickbrahextremeomixedawesomeness" means, but as soon as I read it I immediately took my shirt off, burned it, and then threw a chair through a window.

oddly enough I think I was talking to one of their sales people a number of months ago and told them that their grivel photo stuff was all messed up... Glad they got right on fixing that up. That's a picture of their condor arrest grip (for skiing). Their third tool is the little ice hammer thingy with a red handle. I guess you are supposed to bring them so you have something if/when you drop one of your ice tools.