sweatinoutliquor

Kevin, if you are simulclimbing with your half rope, you probably have considered folding it in half anyway to reduce the drag? My concern would be that the type of falls I would expect to see in this catagory (low 5th) would be non-vertical falls that could result in dragging the rope across edges and pendulums. If that's the case I would probably want it folded in half anyway? Just a thought.

I hear the wherever I may roam, the moonshine dihedral, and (insert number) gallon buckets are all popular routes to do when the avy danger is high on hood. Seriously though, I can't really think of any routes that wouldn't have high exposure to avalanch hazards if the conditions for avy were ripe. Even if the conditions aren't, you still have the potential for ice/rockfall on almost any route on the mountain. My suggestion is that if the avy conditions points to anything worth considering, then maybe it's worth considering going to Smith or just go skiing somewhere, or even just waiting until the conditions are better. Why do all that nasty postholing work anyway when in a month that crispy firm neve will be waiting to squeak you all the way to the top? Just my humblest of opinions.

Single is a rope rated for use all by itself. It's what you generally see folks yarding on while climbing their sport routes, etc. Twin is a pair of ropes (i.e. 2 60m ropes) that are not rated to be used as a single strand. You clip both through the protection. Benefits = Full length rappels and you don't chop your only rope when following during ice climbing. Double is similar to a twin rope, (i.e 2 strands). The difference is that with a double rope you clip only one of them through each piece. Benefit = same as twin, except that you also can reduce rope drag on wandering routes, by clipping gear on your left only with the left rope, gear on your right with the right rope (i.e. the rope doesn't zigzag much hence reducing friction). Anyway, I bet if you search this forum you will find about a million posts on this topic. Elsewhere too.

I bought them tight because I wanted something that would really stick on those dime sized edges and nubbin routes at Smith... Just kidding. Actually, I was wearing the same size boot in a Degree that fit great, and then I ordered the Verticals on the interweb (same size) thinking they would fit the same (even though they were a different model, that should make a difference though, should it?). Anyway, I should have returned them right away, but stupidly thought they would pack out a bit after wearing them. I hate buying footwear without trying them on, but there aren't a lot of places around Corvallis that carry climbing boots. Anyway, thanks for the link Phil and for confirming my assdom.

So, I've owned a pair of Koflach Verticals for a little while now, and I think I've come to hate them... A couple of reasons include: 1. I bought them a bit tight (kinda a half size issue... The size larger had my foot moving around, the ones I got seemed a little more snug than I would have prefered) thinking they would pack out a bit after using them, but even after numerous trips they are still tight and I tend to bash my toes when frontpointing ice. 2. I'm not sure why, but when it's less than super cold, I find that the bottoms of my feet hit a temperature of about 7 million degrees, especially when heading downhill (I think it's friction or something). Sometimes it so bad that I have to stop and take the boots off. 3. When it does happen to be super cold, my feet get cold (I think its tightness causing loss of circulation??). 4. My heel lifts up when I frontpoint up something steep (despite tightness). 5. They are kinda heavy. In general I've switched to wearing my Garmont G-rides, which I would probably be doing anyway if the climb is approachable on skis, but when I'm leaving the sticks at home it's hard to justify wearing ski boots (even though they climb pretty well and weight about the same). So, other than telling me I'm an ass for getting them too tight, what do you think? Would those intuition liners solve some or all of the above issues? If so, where's the best place to get them (I'm in Corvallis)? Should I just get rid of them?

Might want to throw Bibler Fitzroy (large for 2, very tight for 3) on your list. I have one and it's pretty bombproof! Got it for a good deal from a friendly fellow on this site too!

Spectacular!

I second the geko. Cheap(ish), light, get's the job done.

If you go with the Fritschi, don't bother with explore, go to the freeride. Sure you pay more up front, but the explores don't have brakes on them, which is a mandatory 40+ dollar expense. The straps they come with are a joke. Sorry, but I don't know enought about the silveretta's to comment, but it sounds like they are a pretty good option!

I think that's a good idea. You don't have to blow them up to superhuge size, just a bit bigger to pick up some of the detail. Let us know as you upgrade things.

I've found that the grips on BD axes (raven with grip, Venom, etc) get all dinged up if you are plunging the spike in, or using it cane style on firm neve. Just a thought, but I think the grips aren't really worth it.

I know it's under construction, but my thought is that it would be cool if the pictures were a bit bigger... It's obviously got some cool stuff on it, but the little pics make it hard to really tell. Otherwise

For quarks? What's the context here? What do you use em for, why are you looking for some?

'Bout time... I was beginning to worry that we were done with wintah before I got a chance to even get out!

Nice pics guys!

Plus crater rock is so stinky!

Congrats guys, the photos were exceptional, the TR was inspirational! Big

Nice work everyone... Cool TR. Way to get out and get some!

You should send that picture to scarpa/black diamond!

Nice TR Jason. Photo of the gully looks sweet! You know, even if I had gone with you I still would have forgot to bring screws... Stupid I guess, but it never even crossed my mind! The photos were not what I would have expected at all! Crazy! Good job! Although it was hard to be up there with you guys but not "be up there with you guys" I think the weekend was a pretty good one for introducing the little lady to snow climbing. I'm pretty stoked actually... Even with all that wind she didn't complain once, even though she could barely stand up in the stronger gusts. to you too Mel! Hey, just a note to clarify... You didn't bring two tools did you (other than the guys you were with... okay, ha ha)? Just a mountain axe and second tool, right (just wanted to give you credit for climbing all that ice with your blunt mountain axe!).

Yeah Chris! Great report! Sounds like you had a great time and picked a good route. Congrats on that and other big news!

Ice evos are pretty rad... Light and comfy out of the box, but needed to put a new set of footbeds in them (the ones they come with are garbage). I haven't climbed in them under postholing conditions where I could see how warm they would keep me, but I do feel like they would handle any late spring neve climb without being cold! You should check them out if you get a chance... Not as insulated as the nepals, and no gore tex, but I think you would probably like em, especially if you are getting up to CO to hit the ice up a few times a year! Hey, are we going to see a TR from you soon!?

Nepal evo ~5lbs Trango extreme evo light <2lbs? Seems too good to be true!? http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/336

Sadly You too?

One technique is to dig your knees or elbows into the snow while keeping you feet lifted up (see FOTH?). Doesn't work on ice or hard snow, but is maybe better than nothing. Here's a stupid thought that I wouldn't recomend: what if you were heading downhill on your stomach head first and tried digging the tops of your front points in? I know it would put you in line for a head first impact, but if you happen to fall that way and don't have an axe?