sweatinoutliquor

I second CC. I have a pair of Garmont g-rides size 28.5 (I think it's 225mm) (~10.5 foot) and I use the middle length but as CC says, there isn't a whole lot of extra expansion.

Got an email today with apology for delay. Apparently the product was discontinued but I didn't get notified by accident. No hard feelings though, cause I like there stuff a lot Also because they blamed the italians for discontinuing it.

Nice job! I had a sneaking suspicion that most of the ice pitches may have been buried when I was talking to Eben the day before you left, but it sounds like at least that one pitch was spicy enough to make it worthwhile! ! Thanks for posting a report though, and good job getting up it regardless! Sounds like it was a lot of work! Post the pics when you get a chance!

I also saw that happening back east... I guess there are three options: 1. Do nothing, erosion is sweet! 2. Attempt to rehab the area, maybe install a few bolts 3. Ban or restrict climbing in that area. I personally think 2 is the best option... If it's already a popular enough area that significant damage is being done, then you can probably forget about the wilderness feeling when you are out there anyway. Although I feel that bolting these places may be a bit shortsighted (never know what type of sweet technology will come along in the future), its a more acceptable environmental trespass than doing nothing.

Pro looks pretty bomber though...

Thanks guys! I forgot that yesterday was a holiday, and that's probably why they didn't answer the phone.

Oh yeah, and why the hell is this page so screwed up? Sparv, you should put an "enter" between each picture. Maybe it would make it less "special".

That's some good work there team... Does mike know he gets the privilage of naming his route? What was it rated?

The Dark Side Pretty cool little (11 minutes) video about why you should ditch your tele skis for AT. Reasons include breakable crust, medeski, etc.

Has anyone here ever ordered anything from Grivel North America's webpage? I placed an order 2 weeks ago, got a confirmation email, but never actually got anything charged or shipped... I emailed and got no response. Then called office number on their page and got a bunch of full voicemails that wouldn't let me leave a message. Basically, I couldn't get anyone. So... Just curious if anybody has had any experience with these guys. Thanks!

Photos are great! Awesome job John and Markus!

Training for what? Is there really a great reason for US tax dollars to support 20ish peoples salary and military benefits so they can learn to climb ice? Tell me if I'm wrong, but I'm not sure than I can think of too too many operational military situations where ice climbing is a necessary skill. Are they planning on an assult on Cobra's secret ice stronghold? I understand that learning ice climbing can help teach other important things, like ropework, anchor building, teamwork, etc, but I feel like you can get that elsewhere without crowding out small crags. Of course I wasn't there, and I'm not familiar with the area, so I shouldn't make judgements.

That's super lame...

Ryland come on! Share the wealth! You are probably right actually... I should know better than to beg for info on someones stash. Anyway, honestly, I would love to be up there scratching around looking for something to stick this weekend, but with the forecast looking not so great (cold), I think I may try to salvage some skiing instead. Whatever you do, don't post pics of the sickness you climbed cause I'm too fragile to see cool things I've missed out on.

Anybody driving through that area notice anything? Seems like it's been too warm, but that's a call from Corvallis. Anything starting to freeze up?

I was just going to ask that... Info would be much appreciated and would same me the trip up from Corvallis!

My understanding is that class ratings have anything to do with "falling to your death potential", and are more related to the difficulty of the moves.

I just spit coffee on the keyboard. Thanks for putting that little exchange together cindy, cobra, and dru. That cracks me up. Cindy, try clicking on the search option at the top of the page, and select "the gear critic" as the forum you would like to search. I would also change the date to things in the past year. Topics like which boots, jackets, and bivy have been discussed and often that's a great place to start to narrow your search down. Inevitably you will have to choose gear based on your personal needs and $ constraints. My recomendation for a bivy is the bibler bipod. For boots, depends on what you want to do with them, but I believe the koflach double plastic boots (degree) are quite popular and aren't too too expensive. A good boot to accomplish early season snow climbs. For a shell, find something that matches your boots.

I think you are right on this one selkirk... I have heard about people using tiblocs to simulclimb, but it doesn't seem very safe to me... Especially with a smaller diameter rope which it may not catch initially. If you read the instructions, you are supposed to engage the teeth using you thumb cause if you dont, chances are that you will just snag a bit of the sheath and rip it. Not to mention that you probably would need to rig some type of multi-directional anchor to keep from any drag through the setup from pulling the gear in a weird way (like maybe sliding a picket out of the slope?). I haven't tried it though, so maybe someone can comment on this. Sure would be kinda neat if it does work well.

Yup... It totally can be removed, it's just on there really good. I would save removing it until the skin glue starts wearing out... Then peel it off and it's like having a new set!

Great site... I only looked at a few of the pics, but they were great and I bookmarked it. Thanks for sharing!

I was just in NH as well... So strange to be there this time of the year without any snow. Sounded link a good little test for you. Was there anyone in the LOTC hut?

Great climb and pics guys, as usual!

I'm happy to see a TR from that particular area... I've always wondered exactly where the "route" is intended to go. Oregon High and the Summit Guide give it absurdly contrasting difficulty ratings, but standing below it you can't help the gut feeling of spicyness. Thanks again Oleg and Ivan. Any other pictures from your trip?

Good work guys. Sounds like you made the right decisions given the conditions, and jeez, props for getting to where you did. Pics 3,4, and 5 are especially great!