sweatinoutliquor

Chinooks from Pendelton, and my understanding is that the 1042 still has a single alpha model blackhawk on loan from outta state. Probably not as capeable at high altitude, but better than nothing. Thanks for everything 1042/Charlie Co., be safe and come home soon!

Good work guys. Safe "mostly" self-rescue kicks ass.

Dude, they are worth it. Warmer and more comfortable that a hat in my opinion. I'd look for one with adjustable vents, which are extremely handy. Switching the vent from "on" to "off" is for me about the equivelent in temperature regulation as taking a layer off. It lets you control your temp really well. Also check that the goggles you use fit the helmet and dont leave a big gap on your forehead. I bought a Leedom something or other about 7 years ago and I still use it, the thing is awesome. Oh yeah, and they protect your noodle.

Again, it was nice to meet you guys up there. Awesome photos and writeup. Way to keep your shit together getting up to where you got and then off in one piece. I can imagine trying to get from the reid hw down into Leutholds was spicy to say the least. Good work!

Sweet pics you guys!

Nice to meet you guys Wage and Mike! Sounds like a cool way up jport... The view down those gullies was pretty cool from up on the east crater rim. In the event that anyone was wondering, the second to last shot above is from the old chute.

Great job guys... Really enjoyable read and good pics too.

Wage, that was me and my buddy Aaron you guys were parked next to in the AM (I think... we were the fools with skis). Glad you guys made it off okay cause I was thinking sandy was going to be a long day for sure. We had great conditions on Wy'east, and rolled up on the rescue just as it was getting started. After all of the carnage we got back to our car pretty late, looked at your rig, and then back up at the mountain and couldn't see anyone coming down. Crazy day in the hillz for sure.

I know this may not help with the direction of this thread, but shortly after buying a pair of plastic AT boots I just got rid of my Koflachs. The AT boots basically climbed/slogged just as well and obviously worked out a little better for the skiing part!

1. Download google earth on your computer. 2. Use the placemark tool to establish a series of points along your route. Name them fun names like "camp" and "bergshrund crossing" 3. Buy a garmin 4. Google "DNR Garmin" and download the free software from the minnesota department of natural resources. 5. Run the software, which automatically pulls the points from google earth onto your garmin and stores them as waypoints. 6. When you start your trip, reference a couple of the points (for example, "bar" and "beer stash point") you made to make sure they are indeed on this continent. Anyway, I've never done this on a climbing trip, and no, it's not going to help you in a nasty crevasse field (well, maybe it will), but for general navigation it's pretty cool. I've used this for work (forestry) and am almost alarmed by how accurate it can be.

Nice write-up Bill. If folks are going to do it, they may as well know what tools they need to do it right.

Nice writeup. I saved a copy.

Nice work guys, I'd been wondering about that route for a while now.

BD Spot is a flaming pile of dog shit... Mine has broken in 3 different places since I've bought it. The light part of it works sweet, but the fact that I had to literally tape it to the strap and then tape the thing together so that it doesn't fall off is sorta a drawback. Actually I take it back, the bright setting of it isn't that impressive either. I miss my tikka. Anyway, maybe I got a lemon I guess. Here's the real gig though: http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/24460/sesent/00 + some tape or scope mounting ring = better than any headlamp hands down.

Nice pics!

That sucks... Just happened to my girlfriend last year at the columns in Eugene. They nabbed her stuff and rang up 300 bucks worth of crap on one of her cards by the time she could cancel everything (within an hour). She didn't have to pay for that stuff, but she did have to buy a new cell phone and get a new drivers licence, etc. HUGE hassle. Anyway, I agree, I hope whoever poached your stuff get's what they deserve.

I've heard colder than average, but not quite as much precip as last winter... I'd be down for a repeat performance though. Last year was the most snow I've ever seen.

Saw that one in the catalog... Could you imagine that happening right next to you? I think I'd have to change my shorts.

I'm not going to explain the details, but I just wanted to say that once again I've been blown away by the folks who work at Berg's... The quality of service is incredible. Not only do they REALLY know their stuff, but they go out of their way to be friendly and genuinely helpful. They take pride in their work and want to make absolutely sure that you are happy with what they've done for you. I know there are other good ski shops out there, but this one has my business for as long as I'm living in Oregon. PS. No I don't work for them or have any affiliation with them other than as a customer.

I watched a gal who was tele-skiing arrest with a whippet after taking a fall on a pretty icy slope on shasta once. It was pretty steep, and although the runout was probably okay, she may have picked up speed quickly or at least slid for a while. Like dan says, they are only "okay" for self arrest, and you have to practice with 'em to figure out how to hold them best and transition into a good arrest position. I'm always worried that I'm going to wipe out and impale myself with it, but that's one of the benefits of the condor... When the conditions are sketch I'm usually going slow and have the pointy part out, when it gets nice again it's easy to snap closed.

Grivel Condor Grivel leaving the states Nice thing is that you only have to have it out when you really need it, then it snaps closed real easy. (sorry I couldn't post a pic here, oh well)

Damn... Not sure why I hadn't seen this earlier! Nice pics man!

Schweet... What a beautiful area, huh!? Bummer about your camera though. Nice writeup and I hope Kevin's Dad is okay.