fgw
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Everything posted by fgw
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[TR] SmiffistaniRawks - Free(ish) Lunch & Fishtaco Dihedral 1/29/2011
fgw replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Great TR & stoke for the free lunch outing! -
I don't know how feasible it is for you, but Meteora in central Greece should be good that time of year (though back in '08 it rained quite a bit). Stuff up to 6+ pitches on some cool conglomerate towers. Rel. cheap (for Europe anyway) place to stay...decent food & cheap table wine. Stu Green Euro book is a decent starting point for beta. Some sh.t on summitpost too. our old tr
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"it ok to pack everything in my pack so I'm ready to go? " never had issues with that approach. sometimes they search, most times they don't. this includes a handful of times with a haulbag with all sorts of shit in there.
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[TR] Beasodden Rock - Jensen's Rectum (fa? III+, 5.8 C1) 1/16/2011
fgw replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Nice! -
[TR] Cochise - a couple 12/28/2010
fgw replied to fgw's topic in The rest of the US and International.
thanks guys. it looks like petrified elephant balls but is real nice & solid. in fact, never really had any bad rock in cochise (probably have not climbed enough there though). -
Trip: Cochise - a couple routes Date: 12/28/2010 Trip Report: Over Xmas-New Years time frame, we spent about 6 or 7 days on the road looking for warm & dry places to climb. Things were slowed a bit by shitty driving conditions (on the way down & back home). We caught 3 great days in Cochise & finally climbed the beautiful Days of Future Passed route (highlight of the trip). On day 4, cold rain drove us out of SE Arizona and up to Red Rocks where things were dry but windy and chilly. Squeeked in one short route before giving up & heading home. More bs & photos here. On the road in (freezing) Nevada somewhere south of Ely & north of LV...Christmas Eve I think: Shirley leading pitch 2 of Ides Of Middlemarch, the most trad of all the lines we've done on Sheepshead: Pitch 3 of Ides Of Middlemarch: Getting ready for Days Of Future Passed: Leading pitch 1 of DFP (5.8 A0 for me): Pitch 2 of DFP - a varied crack to a flaring groove: Shirley following pitch 2 of DFP: Pitch 3 of DFP: Shirley leading the finishing pitch of Endgame... ...we did the proper finish to DFP a year ago (after Endgame) & once felt enough: Shirley on pitch 4 of Ewephoria: Cold (but dry..sort of) Red Rocks: Shirley on the beautiful 4th pitch of Bighorn: Shivering atop Bighorn: Approach Notes: a drive that normally takes a post-work evening & following day (grade V) took an extra day due to sub-optimal conditions.
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G., you're right - it is the Old Woman register.
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nice idea Tyler. old man summit register in '04:
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our 2 quick encounters with Spanish climbing...itching for more someday: one two
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[TR] Dolomites-Wilder Kaiser 7/19/2010
fgw replied to jmace's topic in The rest of the US and International.
very cool Jesse!! great photos/memories sure help with the shit weather. according to MVS, we missed each other by about 2 days in the tre cime region this year. Comici on Cima Grande is worth your return trip (don't let the crowds sway you away). -
stayed there regularly up until like 2 yrs ago when there was some in-family power struggle/ownership modification...apparently some cousins of the owners started running the front shop & so the regular price needed to be renegotiated for every stay (i suspect they were skimming off the top) ..this additional pita factor made it not worth it anymore. I've never found the place dirty (but maybe I'm just a filthy animal?) - basic, simple, old, but OK. again, my info is 2 years old. shit - maybe it's a 4-star resort now?!!
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what num1 said. but I'd add that we've seen good conditions & shitty conditions over the xmas/new years time frame, eg from couple years back: I think that a place like the Rockfellows will be too cold to climb (it's just windy up there all the time it seems). But there's plenty to do lower down, eg. Sheepshead dome, Whale dome, out of towners dome etc.... we've done a few trips down there over the years (you can see my bs here ) if you get tired of cold camping, cheap motels can be found in benson, ~30-45 minutes away from west cochise (1hr + from east). lastly, we've never had issues getting a sedan all the way to the end of the road in the west stronghold but i know things can change after every big downpour...sheepshead trailhead should be accessible though.
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you can keep a low key by parking at bridal veil overlook above on hwy30 & hiking down. mossy choss fun.
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[TR] Clyde Minaret - SE Face (5.8, 12p) 7/31/2010
fgw replied to OlympicMtnBoy's topic in California
Excellent stuff! -
went up there with our dog and it was allowed (at least in '03). se ridge - no issues, though she chose to sit out the final 30' scramble.
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nice tr. in 2004, this was the scariest part of the day ...heard they replaced the bridge since.
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cch totally defunct now? last year they replaced the wires on a bunch of my aliens for $10 a pop, maybe not cheapest optiong but given that they now sell for like what $500 a piece seems like a worthy restoration effort. two were beyond even their ability of "unfucking" & so were replaced for the said price. but for all i know cch is no longer & this is useless.
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i collected some photos of (mostly) fixed stuff on sp, here: mank some examples:
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it's clean granite, just wet.
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thank you for the hard work! got up 4 or 5 pitches of it this past march before dampness sent us running. A great route - as good as its neighbors.
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[TR] Goose Egg Mtn - Dirty Sanchez 5/30/2010
fgw replied to sobo's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
Nice panos! (a 4-star name for a 1-star climb ...my humble opinion anyway). -
[TR] Riglos, Spain - Couple Easy's 5/10/2010
fgw replied to fgw's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Hi Jessi, thanks! dolomites eh? man, I'd love to get back there -- keep flipping thru. that guidebook...so many ideas. Enjoy yourself & post up a tr afterwards! cheers. -
[TR] Riglos, Spain - Couple Easy's 5/10/2010
fgw replied to fgw's topic in The rest of the US and International.
that's funny! -
[TR] Riglos, Spain - Couple Easy's 5/10/2010
fgw replied to fgw's topic in The rest of the US and International.
that was my guesstimate as well but I think it means cigar (?)hehehe. -
Awesome!! Congrats!