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Anyone done it as an aid climb (Dod Route/North Face)? Any beta on gear needed (how many pins, belay bolts any good etc...) The underground Menagerie guide is nice for free climbing it but doesn't give much on gear. Dodge info. might be out of date. thanks.

Nice 5.6's: Geronimo (4-5P), watch the rope snag on way down. Cat in Hat is overhyped IMHO - only last pitch is good and that's not enough to justify waiting in line. Johnny Vegas is OK - sketchy pro. on P2 above dihedral. Quick climb (rap route instead of Solar Slab gully which takes longer). Solar Slab is supposedly nice but I haven't done it. Physical Graffitti is short and sweet. Nice 5.7's: Olive Oil is OK (bit overhyped maybe??); Tunnel Vision is very memorable; Group Therapy is nice - scariest part was not the OW (which is soft as in mostly face climbing no real OW moves. the crack would need like #5 Camalot to protect though) but the runout P1 (~5.6 face). Also, when getting off belay to start P2, head up a "groove" on left (this was the only "tricky" bit of routefinding). Nice 5.8's: Crimson Chrysalis (forget the 5.8+ rating...it's all uniform from bottom to top at .7+ - .8). Dark Shadows (first 4 pitches; easily link up P1 and P2). These are MUST DO's at RR!!!!! Unforgettable routes!!! Lotta Balls is a decent 5.8 (it's not runout) as is Frogland. Nice 5.9's: Epinephrine (have not done it though). Ginger Cracks looks good as well. Nice 5.10's: Ask someone else. Good websites to check out: http://www.ericandlucie.com/Climbs/climbs.htm (much good beta with nice photos) http://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Nevada.html (not that much beta but awsome photos) http://www.summitpost.org (look under NV peaks, Rainbow Mtn. etc...). Get the updated RR supertopo. Been to RR in all seasons pretty much. Nov. is just fine for any route (N facing included) though it did rain on us 1 out of 4 days. Short daylight is a pain in the a.. - make sure to call in and get that late exit pass - it's free and effortless to do (even from the top of route) and you'll save yourself $50 on the ticket (got it everytime otherwise). Also, Todd Swain is a good guidebook but for a more complete picture get yourself the Urioste guide as well (out of print). TON of routes in that one that didn't make it into Swain. If you're gonna go for that Jubilant Song on Windy Peak, the TH might be tricky to find. Let me know, I have very detailed directions (went there but ended up not doing the climb).

Cave rt. has about 30 feet of 5.6 face right off deck and rest is mostly a 4th-5.0 scramble. West f. of brogan has a low 5th class move out of the Mini Half Dome - Brogan notch and then quickly becomes 4th class. Rock is good on both routes. Do the Marsupial Traverse (Lawson's booklet) but if you're gonna solo, do an alternative start to top out on Mudpile like Carla The Stripper (rated 5.8 but realistically .7 face, solid rock). Rest of traverse is easy (couple mandatory rap's unless you downclimb .8 though) except for a section of bad rock on Tail or Oppossum (get those confused - one right after Brogan). Other areas: Backside of Monument or Little 3FJ I think has a "good" 5.2 solo route acc. to Watts but have not done it. Hike up w. side of smith group and can do low 5th scrambles up Platform and Arrowpoint (one of these has really sh..ty rock, I would not want to downclimb that one; bring short rope for rap off; other one has mandatory downclimb). Easy lines in Staender's ridge tend to be loose IMO.