MattStan

It all comes down to how an individual cord behaves. I've had one Mammut Revelation 9.1 behave just fine and another be just a bit too zippy. I've also watched in morbid fascination as a beefy 9.8 slowly oozed through a Grigri under a body-weight toprope load. Once the dry coating roughened up it was fine, but oh-so-spooky at the beginning.

Yet another poignant reminder that seatbelts save lives . Steve Karafa was by FAR one of the most honest and genuine people I had the pleasure of working with in the industry. He will be sorely, sorely missed by many, myself included. I hope John has a speed recovery, and that he and Dario (the founder of Acopa and operator of the actual manufacturing in Mexico) can forge on with the company.

/second the vote on Cheap Bastard.

Hmm... physics is definitely not my strong suit, but perhaps it's due to how the Joker's dynamic elongation works? As a single it goes 37% (80kg mass) and 32% as a half (55kg mass), so my uneducated, shot-from-the-hip guess is the Joker's particular elongation characteristics during the half-rope test accounts for the seeming discrepancy. Keep in mind, too, that the testing labs are less than perfect in their implementation of test procedures. I had more than a few manufacturers tell me of how they would send test ropes off the same spool to multiple labs only to receive widely varying results from each lab, and even get notable discrepancies within a single lab day-to-day. That's what killed the edge-resistance test (which was a bogus test anyway) -- rope A passes in labs X and Y, but fails in lab Z.

At least the Euros are hip to it: http://www.millet.fr/recyclez-economisez/en/accueil.htm

Jens, you re-thinking your August plans?

Two guys from the Cle Elum area did a route up the center of the face on Stuart in the mid-1990s (can't remember specifically if it was 1997), with a bolt here and there from what I understand. I believe they did top out on the wall, but without freeing their line.

http://www.heraldrepublic.com/page/dis/286441050399163 Rimrock Retreat is where Rainbow Rocks is.

I got to use one on two routes in late fall. The action of the mechanism is quite different from a Grigri and seemed a bit counter-intuitive, but it did work well on a 9.2. My main concern was both immediate and longterm: The clamping mechanism was pretty heavily lubricated and reeked of solvent (I noticed this prior to using it and used a "disposable" rope). I was a) concerned about with what the lubricant was and b) what happens down the road when the device isn't so well greased, e.g., does its action start to slow, catch, jam, etc. I don't believe anyone (outside of the manufacturers, of course) has done any true longterm testing on it.

Go with either the Vasak or the G12. Their respective integrations of the antibott (anti-balling) platform are much better than BD's.

Having recently returned from four and a half years in Colorado, I can safely say I'd take WA over CO any day, especially in terms of geographic diversity. Add on the fact that folks (and climbers) in WA are generally nicer and more sociable, it's a no-brainer.

I think Moonstone unfortunately quit making the hooded version a year or two ago. Not to mention that they'll likely and sadly cease to exist since being bought up by Columbia as part of the Pacific Trail bankruptcy acquisition. Another good small brand bites the dust ...

Take a look at the Wild Things EP Jacket (similar weight to a Puff) or their Belay Jacket (similar weight to a DAS). WT has a clearance sale going on right now on those, http://www.wildthingsgear.com/clearancepage.html

Joseph, do you happen to remember if there was any apparent wear difference between the short sling and the longer one? As far as pull testing goes, it's my understanding from those who know that pull testing (a slow, progressive loading until the piece or sling breaks) is harsher than a true dynamic fall-tower test, as it starts with any elasticity removed from the system and stresses the piece for a comparitively much longer period of time vs. the sudden impact of a fall test. Mammut had prototypes of 6mm dyneema slings last summer, so I expect they'll be hitting the market soon. Similar construction to the 8mm, but the tube is rounded rather than flat, resulting in a cord-like feel. Whether 8mm or 6mm, it's precious little material, so an aggressive turnover schedule is probably warranted.

About the only thing that'll happen to the dye is that it'll be obscured over time by the ubiquitous "rope gack." If you take time to gently clean it every so often, problem solved. I've seen a Mammut Revelation go through hell and back and still retain its markings. Just remember, whether it's dyed markers or a dual-weave, it's still always best to pull both ends through equally through the anchors. The first time you forget that you cut 10 feet of your Duodess may be the last time ...

It all comes down to what fits you best, of course. My personal favorite are the Montrail CTCs, but you should head down to the store and spend an hour or so trying on various models, keeping each on your foot for several minutes.

Having used every notable (and some not so notable) brand of rope on the market, I go first for Mammut, second for Sterling. Don't hesitate to go down to 9.8 as far as durability goes. And I second Jens' advice about buy cheap, buy often.

I can so identify with that.

The term was coined by the late Gunks legend Jack Mileski, who could describe routes in extremely creative and vivid detail (he was an English teacher and writer), i.e., the next best thing to watching it on video. He started asking his partners, "Do you want the Betamax on that?" Pretty soon it got shortened to "beta" and the rest is history.

Who said it was a really cool area? To me, it was complete and utter choss -- or more specifically, kitty litter. I went up there a few times when I lived there and returned deeply, deeply discouraged. There's lots of rock, but you can literally carve out holds in the barely consolidated sand with your hands. Of all the Roslyn/Swauk sandstone, this stuff has to be the worst. There is evidence of people having climbed up there: On one outcrop, there's a 15-foot line of hangerless quarter-inchers right beside a series of deep, carved-out buckets, with an inch-deep groove at the top where the toprope wore down into the rock. Not sure if the land is public or private, as the ridge is a real checkerboard. By the way Jens, I'm back in WA for good. I'll give you a shout once I have my fat keister back into some semblance of fitness.

Actually, it's anything from Avery Brewing. Adam Avery, the brewmaster and owner, is a regular out there.

When General Electric bought BHA, eVent's parent company, their lawyers kiboshed using eVent in tents for the US market based on the potential for an FR lawsuit. The Tenshi and the Polaris are no longer produced with eVent -- if you come across one made of it, snap it up! As evidenced by the UK tents, it's still possible to get name-brand three-layers outside the US. Domestic tents simply labeled as three-layer without a name brand are typically Toray's Dermizax fabric, which is good stuff.

You will all be assimilated.

Hi Chriznitch, The climbers in question are Fred Dunham and Fred Stanley on Baker. Steve Marts was a great filmmaker back in the day. Check out his Everest films from '82 and '84. Been away from Seattle for a few years now, but Scarecrow in the U District used to have'em. (Hope Scarecrow is still in business!)

Folks have definitely hit on the four spots that are mandatory for me when I'm back visiting the 'burg: Campus U-Tote-Em for takeout burgers, The Tav for sit-down pub grub, D & M for coffee, and the Valley Cafe for upscale dining. I brought some D & M beans back to Colorado with me after Christmas last year and got all of my co-workers hooked on'em. Now we put in a monthly order.