MattStan

Not written by Carlin, but "Dr." Bob Moorehead, former pastor of Overlake Christian Church, who resigned as head of the church when he was found to have molested several male parishoners. Now that's something Carlin would have had fun with. There's surfeit of material swirling around t3h int@rn3ts falsely attributed to Carlin. Check out snopes.com for the full lowdown. The man was ahead of his time in some startling ways. His "Airport Security" routine from 1999 eerily presaged 9/11. I imagine he's pretty pissed off right now, feeling he had left so much unsaid.

If a cragging fall is your concern, then the so-called softshell is the way to go. I have a BD Tracer for cragging and can honestly say I don't even notice it on while climbing. One thing to note when selecting a helmet is the difference between CE and UIAA certification. Both organizations test the same, but their standards differ, with the UIAA being the more stringent. It's been a few years since I examined a range of helmets, but back in 2004 or so, there were at least a few Euro helmets on the market that didn't sport UIAA cert. Both the Tracer and the Meteor III pass UIAA. It's also interesting to note that they haven't yet mandated a test for impact in a fall. They test vertical and perimeter impact with a 5kg weight, measuring the force transmitted, but that really doesn't equate at all. In all the years I've been climbing with my father, he's only ever climbed one route sans lid. He's been cragging for over 45 years and is the coolest climber I know. If he sees the sense in wearing a helmet, everyone should -- 'nuff said.

For the most part, the Tieton is andesite, not basalt, and while it forms similarly at a macro level, it's definitely different structurally. Anyway, if you're looking for expert advice on drilling in the Tieton (and on whether you should drill there at all), you should PM andyf.

If you're in need of some kitty litter, then yeah... Not worth your time, especially with what's up there somewhere in the O.K. Noggin.

Er, were you thinking of me?

RE: the backside of Grand Central at Peshastin... Vertigo has more of a chimney on its upper half, not really an off-width. Empire State possesses a few off-width moves here and there, but doesn't stand out as an off-width per se, especially with all its face holds. Bomb Shelter definitely isn't an off-width either. I remember belaying Jens on that ages ago... not that a belay mattered, as the kitty-litter rock and aged fix pro probably wouldn't hold the bodyweight of an infant. T'was a nice on-sight on Jens's part.

That's where Bishop's Terrace is, if'n I recollect correctly. Tasty two-pitch 5.8 with a super-short approach. I'll also second the recommendation on Central Pillar of Frenzy -- just make sure to pack a #4 Camalot for the wide stuff on it and don't venture beyond the fifth pitch. If you're looking to push yourself, consider Serenity Crack, if it's not too hot.

Alison Osius, of Climbing/Rock & Ice (and Lynn's ghost editor on Climbing Free), has Catherine Freer's personal journals and papers. Hopefully she'll one day find the time to write Freer's bio, as Freer certainly stands out as one of America's best all-around female climbers. One can only imagine what she'd have achieved had her life not been tragically cut short. Sadly, a lot of women climbers these days are largely ignorant of her legacy.

As do a host of other hardmen. Jay Smith (another person who's tougher than anyone on this board) has one of the most elaborate taping routines I've ever witnessed. Taping is less about compensating for poor technique and more about compensating for weak skin. Some people are lucky enough to have thick hides that can withstand a belt sander. The rest of us have to opt for a little epidermal augmentation.

I had the honor of meeting Hugh a few times. He was a classic old-school Brit climber: short, stout, and full of mirth. And oh did he ever love to talk about gear. He had an amazing prototype of a much updated Dyneema helmet, which will likely never see the light of day.

Can't help myself, have to throw one in the mix. Bouldering at Vantage circa 1974 (I think):

I consider it a preferable alternative to XCR for garments, but not in the class of eVent. Just a guess on my part, but I think most single-walls that speak of using a "proprietary" fabric are in fact using Dermizax.

After GE's lawyers canned tent usage of eVent, Nemo switched to Toray's Dermizax.

Good bumps are just harder to make/find these days -- snowboarders and winch groomers are to blame. Makes me wish we had reserved runs, like when Mary Jane used to have gated-off bump runs where you had to have a minimum of a 190cm ski.

The late, great Mike Bearzi was in fact the originator of the M system.

@Delmarco: Comfort and fit should always rule over brand. If possible, you should try and hang in it in the store for at least two or three minutes. @Aya: Many folks, for various reasons, find that their thighs possess a bit too much girth for standard leg loops, and hence seek lightweight harnesses w/ adjustable leg loops. Witness Arcteryx's infamous Zzril, which has leg loops best left to superwaif Kate Moss.

Mark's not as involved in the day-to-day running as he used to be. He has a business manager and a fulfillment guy keeping the shop going.

Mark's not as involved in the day-to-day running as he used to be. He as a business manager and a fulfillment guy keeping the shop going.

I hope Loren's server can handle the traffic they're mistakenly sending him...

I've heard via the rumor mill that climbing in the southern part (e.g., the Schoolroom) of the Potholes may have been shut down at the land manager's discretion. Not positive on this, so it'd behoove anyone planning to go out there to check in advance.

It all comes down to how an individual cord behaves. I've had one Mammut Revelation 9.1 behave just fine and another be just a bit too zippy. I've also watched in morbid fascination as a beefy 9.8 slowly oozed through a Grigri under a body-weight toprope load. Once the dry coating roughened up it was fine, but oh-so-spooky at the beginning.

Yet another poignant reminder that seatbelts save lives . Steve Karafa was by FAR one of the most honest and genuine people I had the pleasure of working with in the industry. He will be sorely, sorely missed by many, myself included. I hope John has a speed recovery, and that he and Dario (the founder of Acopa and operator of the actual manufacturing in Mexico) can forge on with the company.

/second the vote on Cheap Bastard.

Hmm... physics is definitely not my strong suit, but perhaps it's due to how the Joker's dynamic elongation works? As a single it goes 37% (80kg mass) and 32% as a half (55kg mass), so my uneducated, shot-from-the-hip guess is the Joker's particular elongation characteristics during the half-rope test accounts for the seeming discrepancy. Keep in mind, too, that the testing labs are less than perfect in their implementation of test procedures. I had more than a few manufacturers tell me of how they would send test ropes off the same spool to multiple labs only to receive widely varying results from each lab, and even get notable discrepancies within a single lab day-to-day. That's what killed the edge-resistance test (which was a bogus test anyway) -- rope A passes in labs X and Y, but fails in lab Z.

At least the Euros are hip to it: http://www.millet.fr/recyclez-economisez/en/accueil.htm