- 
                
Posts
5561 - 
                
Joined
 - 
                
Last visited
 - 
                
Days Won
1 
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by JosephH
- 
	Unless of course, the date of your ascent predates the date in the book. But god knows how fast reality fades with time out there.
 - 
	Well, as part of the FFA party my vote is no new bolts. Again, it doesn't need pussifying just so old guys can get on it without jeopardizing their parenting skils. How about four bolts on Blood, Sweat and Smears? It would see a lot more ascents if it were 'upgraded' too. And two bolts at the start of Free For Sum? That would sure allow for more than the handful of folks who lead it now.
 - 
	
	
				stolen? Possible stolen gear being sold on craigslist
JosephH replied to Alpinfox's topic in Lost and Found
Anyone in PDX missing anything lately? http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1953977415.html - 
	I don't think so, I'm pretty sure it's just a hunger, like cheetos. I'm guessing it was Farrgo who Kevin saw, but let's ask - Eldiente and Farrgo, have you guys done a spin on it yet?
 - 
	Well, I suppose that would depend on when you did it, wouldn't it. Let me guess, you need more bolts on it too.
 - 
	No one 'stole' anything, we walked down the trail and did the first interesting thing we saw. I didn't put two and two together until years later. As the route has been bolted and retrobolted I'm not sure what the point of 'authority' is, but again it doesn't require any more bolts given it was done originally with about half the bolts that are there now. It was and is a bold lead that's already been dimmed down once, no need to pussify it, just need to fix the two bad high angles.
 - 
	It isn't a big surprise that the republicans are taking a hard swerving hard righthand turn after Bush. The battle lines in the party were drawn up almost immediately between those saying the party needed to return to its moderate roots and those who felt Bushco simply failed to go right enough. What was most predictable was which side of that the rightwing media machine was going to fall - media-boring moderates or entertaining nutjobs.
 - 
	When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead. Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile.
 - 
	It's already been retrobolted once from when it was put up. As for the FA, if the book is correct on the date, then my old partner Tangen-Foster did the FFA (onsight) before Bob with me seconding. It was his first day at Beacon and that is as far down the trail as he got. I recall at the time thinking it was pretty sketch as it didn't have the current retrobolts on it. It already has more than enough good bolts on it as is to get you up high enough to where you won't deck no matter what, it doesn't need any more bolts below the current top bolt. I'll have to look at the pins and available placements for good pins before I'd decide to retro them with bolts.
 - 
	Pretty much just the two Nates are the only ones I know of nosing around it since Vern did it. I haven't been on it in a long time, but will be going up and sorting out the two pins this weekend if we get a weather break.
 - 
	Did I miss your recent send of it?
 - 
	What about the harem of mormon wives? Are they running you out of the place for bad behavior? I'd talk to Karsten (Texplorer), he's there. Couldn't ask for a better partner if that's where you ended up.
 - 
	Yes, the fact that she is in the [political] picture at all tells you there are a lot of republican voters who are dumb as stumps and being jerked off.
 - 
	This would be the guy you want: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/4298 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/554867/Re_TR_Mt_Aspiring_New_Zealand_
 - 
	Truth be told, this is Larry's true gift.
 - 
	
	
				[TR] Bacon Rawk - DA Double Dirty HO - III 5.8 A2 9/11/2010
JosephH replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
They should be relatively clean and the pins were checked and reset. By and large the routes from Blownout left to Flying Dutchman don't collect much in the way of crud or moss on the upper pitch. - 
	
	
				[TR] Bacon Rawk - DA Double Dirty HO - III 5.8 A2 9/11/2010
JosephH replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Will get a sling and ring on the first anchor sometime in the next week or so. The first pitch may be a bit short, but it's actually a great 5.8 and will make a good addition to the small collection of easier climbs out there. The second pitch looks like it could go possibly go free to one of you 135 lb. young aces. The third pitch is aid, baby, aid. - 
	There's no indignation involved with pointing out ignorance, just pity. Again, hard to seek power for forty years solely on ignorance, lies, fear, and bigotry without ending up having your party taken over by lunatics who just make shit up as they go along.
 - 
	Casinos first, the environment whenever, but hey, it is Alabama...
 - 
	In the same way that socialists are fascists and bigots are all about equality - it's logical tripe, but's been the latest rage since W emasculated the right.
 - 
	The U.S. legacy of antagonism between labor and management is now more than a bit of hindrance to advancing U.S. business capabilities. It wasn't that much of an issue when products and services exhibited low complexity, but now we are dealing with a much more sophisticated products and services and they require a unity of purpose, cooperation, and coordination of all concerned to deliver them. The requisite planning, execution, and quality systems are all much more difficult to implement in the U.S. compared to countries with less friction between labor and management.
 - 
	My point exactly. Did that come with a Utilithong?
 - 
	Jebus, I was wondering who was buying the damn things - belays at the Exits and Leavenworth must be horrific...
 - 
	Yeah, the 6mm thing at RR wouldn't be a good idea given pulling a rope there is basically a crapshoot anyway. Doable on granite, but not the sort of thing I like seeing anyone do except highly experienced and fairly advanced climbers. Latest accident I've seen doing it was in the Valley back in May. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1164065&tn=60
 - 
	Just pick up a set of skinny twins.
 
