JosephH

No, you can just walk from the sidewalk down to Head Case on the wall opposite you as you head down the trail and all the routes are fairly obvious. Head Case in particular is really nice.

Wayne, maybe you and Jeff Thomas could get a group discount (and maybe there are more resources over on MP or ST): http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1273521&msg=1274196#msg1274196 Good luck with it, I had a similar diagnosis on my shoulder, hope your doc is wrong.

Per the other thread. These are on the NW face (north of the trail), not the West face (south of the trail):

As always, feel free to point out when something I say about Beacon isn't either fact or clearly delineated as my opinion. And gee whiz, if the fact I do stuff out there or post here chaps your already hard-driven asses I'll take that as bonus points and see what I can do in the way of finding some 20-grit.

Will be trying to get out in the afternoon, but will definitely be out for this month's full moon go on YW around 9-10pm.

Originally Posted By: JosephH When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead. Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile. Your point?

Not at all, if those dates on SR aren't correct then it's entirely possible my friend merely got the third free ascent of it.

There you go then, Kevin's your man. Like the two diameter idea.

"Convenient for you" - unless he wrote it for me I don't see how. Or are facts somehow convenient or inconvenient to you other than just being facts?

I think he's talking about one of Shane's new routes off the start of the trail. Check here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/beacon_rock/106452015

I've thought about that on several occasions and have the 12" x 1/2" bits to do it but I think they would just keep clogging up. I already feel like a janitor out there without having to carry a plunger or drain snake. Calling for rain in pdx on sunday, but sunny in the Dalles so maybe it will be alright out there.

No Kenny, I'm not going to do the next retrobolting, I'm going to rebolt it and check the pins and make sure either they are solid or replace them with something that is either pin or bolt. It will have the exact same number of fixed protection points it has now, in the same places they're at now. If there are any 'sides' in that rebolting then I can't imagine why, or what the objection could possible be, other than Kevin's complaint it needs more bolts. I have a pretty hard time believing either Farrgo or Eldiente who might actually climb it are going to have any complaints. So if anyone does have a problem with me rebolting Stone Rodeo then speak up an explain exactly and specifically what your objection is. Kenny, why exactly would you have any problem whatsoever with rebolting it? Why do you think anyone would have any problem with it? P.S. I did just go a aid half the thing in a downpour, with water streaming out of the crack. I stopped when I got to the really bad bolt or it would already be done. At this point it doesn't matter how it gets done, just that all the fixed protection on it is solid.

Joseph. Care to comment? I already did, if the dates are correct in Olson's book then Foster did the ffa. And now that pink mentioned free-soloing Jensens, I also recall he all but did that the next day semi-scaring me when I realized he only used like two pieces for the pitch off the actual ridge. In the end does it really matter? What counts is it was an absolutely striking line for Bob and Wayne to have been working and it just happened to fit our roof sensibility at the time. It's stout even as an aid line and was visionary of them as a free one. We way more than likely wouldn't never have gotten on it if the bolt wasn't there; we thought we were doing an established line like any other and in many respects we were.

Wayne, did you or Bob do the retrobolts, or know who did?

Good to hear, that's what I'm doing. When I get done everything that's fixed on the route will be bomb one way or the other.

The trick at YW puddle is to drape the rope in long loops over each side of the outside corner of the ledge to the right of the puddle (as you are facing the anchor). I hope to be out friday afternoon as well and then saturday or sunday.

No, I don't need love - I need less whining and more open days at Beacon.

Yep, stake it all out in a living will and execute a medical power of attorney for each other.

Damn, that's right Steve, I completely forgot, you're going to conjure up a closure law or policy change by wishing it so in group man-hug up on LoLP and cursing all the agency personnel to eternal damnation while you're at it. Good luck with that (oh, and be sure and bring drums for the chanting circle).

Wait a minute - you guys, and Kevin and Jim in particular, have had biannual seizures over the closure like clockwork for the past fourteen years without doing jack about it. I come along, get tired of listening to all the incessant whining and finally make the mistake of looking into it all. And the instant you make that mistake - aside from suddenly being up to your neck in a whole new grand levels of bullshit - you are immediately into the law and the policy that flows from it. Don't like the closure? Want to change or eliminate it? Cool, welcome to federal and Washington state law. And unless I'm way off the mark, it's always better to work with lawyers when you head into that territory if you want better odds of getting stuff done. Last I checked Maggie and Bryan are lawyers and good ones. I find it amazing you guys actually have the audacity to say shit about any of my statements around what can or can't be done about the closure without a) bothering looking into it all yourselves in any realistic, detailed way, b) sitting down and talking with all the agency personnel responsible for implementing and enforcing the policy, and c) using any and all legal or agency resources you know who might actually be able to better understand the relevant laws and could help determine what options are open to climbers. So it's not cool to talk to lawyers we know about the closure law? What are you saying, that it's really just all about the incessant whining and our identity as 'victims' of the closure that's what's important instead of addressing it and getting something done? Or am I just fucking nuts?

It's very rare to see a golden out at Beacon. I suspect the place is just too busy and the Peregrines defend it pretty heavily. Never seen an eagle of any kind on the rock itself. Young bald eagles from the nest in the Hamilton Creek basin come hang out on the towers around the slough out in front of Beacon every year, but not on the rock itself.

Damn, an attempt at humor despite the obvious challenges. Good for you.

Well, if my wife was a lawyer she may not care, but I'd still be getting legal advice on the matter, regardless. If your wife doesn't care then how about Bryan, he's an environmental attorney - though of course he plays for the other team.

Care to tell us what Maggie thinks we should do about the closure?

LOL! Fixed that for you. I think I use to see that guy up at the VA hospital, naked but for wearing a sandwich board with handwritten felt tip exclamations on it. Hey, that's my day job and I think I'm on the verge of getting things turned around up there.