JosephH

And your point?

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1953977415.html

In that case it would only take me retiring, losing another fifteen pounds, and about eight months of climbing to be a punter.

Not sure what you mean in regard to Dastardly. I put hangers on Andrew's studs at the top and removed Ben's long studs down below, can't think of anything else. Summer Daze was the WSP wanted the anchor off the tree, I don't care if you want to pull it so there is no anchor there, but I just replaced what was there. Restoring the Dods anchor was Jim's idea. RR was only because of the star rating conflict with the runout. As you point out, both of the latter two were removed within days.

Replacing bad bolts has nothing whatsoever to do with ethics or 'laws', whereas retrobolting established routes does. And when you are talking about adding bolts to long established climbs then you are just asking for trouble regardless of what the FA thinks because at that point your 'community' is vested in the climb. No, that is incorrect. Established climbing protocol and procedural rules take precedence over any personal preference. What exactly does that mean? And in regard to which of the above?

Replacing bad bolts has nothing whatsoever to do with ethics or 'laws', whereas retrobolting established routes does. And when you are talking about adding bolts to long established climbs then you are just asking for trouble regardless of what the FA thinks because at that point your 'community' is vested in the climb.

yep

The conversation we're having is that I replaced bad bolts on YW. I did check with Jim who responded that the bolts were good and that they couldn't be replaced even if they were bad because they were in the perfect spot. He was then agreed to go with me, but then his knee gave out. Are you agreeing with him that the bolts were good and even if they weren't they couldn't be replaced? Where's the angst over the person who retro'd the LoLP rap anchor against Jim's explict wishes. Why the angst over Jim wanting to replace the anchor below the tree on Dods?

If you think I'm the only one that would chop a bolt added to YW you are delusional; there are any number of people who would. And have you climbed YW this year? Did replacing those bad bolts change any aspect of the climb for you? So far I haven't heard a single person claim any aspect of the experience of climbing YW has changed.

True enough except it would get pulled in a heartbeat. Totally agree. Well, unless Olson and the 1987 calendar are lying - and regardless of how powerful the Beacon Reality-Distortion Field is these days - facts are facts. Bummer, I know.

Unless of course, the date of your ascent predates the date in the book. But god knows how fast reality fades with time out there.

Well, as part of the FFA party my vote is no new bolts. Again, it doesn't need pussifying just so old guys can get on it without jeopardizing their parenting skils. How about four bolts on Blood, Sweat and Smears? It would see a lot more ascents if it were 'upgraded' too. And two bolts at the start of Free For Sum? That would sure allow for more than the handful of folks who lead it now.

Anyone in PDX missing anything lately? http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1953977415.html

I don't think so, I'm pretty sure it's just a hunger, like cheetos. I'm guessing it was Farrgo who Kevin saw, but let's ask - Eldiente and Farrgo, have you guys done a spin on it yet?

Well, I suppose that would depend on when you did it, wouldn't it. Let me guess, you need more bolts on it too.

No one 'stole' anything, we walked down the trail and did the first interesting thing we saw. I didn't put two and two together until years later. As the route has been bolted and retrobolted I'm not sure what the point of 'authority' is, but again it doesn't require any more bolts given it was done originally with about half the bolts that are there now. It was and is a bold lead that's already been dimmed down once, no need to pussify it, just need to fix the two bad high angles.

It isn't a big surprise that the republicans are taking a hard swerving hard righthand turn after Bush. The battle lines in the party were drawn up almost immediately between those saying the party needed to return to its moderate roots and those who felt Bushco simply failed to go right enough. What was most predictable was which side of that the rightwing media machine was going to fall - media-boring moderates or entertaining nutjobs.

When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead. Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile.

It's already been retrobolted once from when it was put up. As for the FA, if the book is correct on the date, then my old partner Tangen-Foster did the FFA (onsight) before Bob with me seconding. It was his first day at Beacon and that is as far down the trail as he got. I recall at the time thinking it was pretty sketch as it didn't have the current retrobolts on it. It already has more than enough good bolts on it as is to get you up high enough to where you won't deck no matter what, it doesn't need any more bolts below the current top bolt. I'll have to look at the pins and available placements for good pins before I'd decide to retro them with bolts.

Pretty much just the two Nates are the only ones I know of nosing around it since Vern did it. I haven't been on it in a long time, but will be going up and sorting out the two pins this weekend if we get a weather break.

Did I miss your recent send of it?

What about the harem of mormon wives? Are they running you out of the place for bad behavior? I'd talk to Karsten (Texplorer), he's there. Couldn't ask for a better partner if that's where you ended up.

Yes, the fact that she is in the [political] picture at all tells you there are a lot of republican voters who are dumb as stumps and being jerked off.

This would be the guy you want: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/userposts/id/4298 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/554867/Re_TR_Mt_Aspiring_New_Zealand_

Truth be told, this is Larry's true gift.