JosephH

Man, that wildly sucks!!! Glad to hear you're on the mend as I really need you out there a year ahead of me setting an example of what is possible (pretty much just you and Donini that I hear about on any regular basis)

Whereabouts? Top of Wrong Gull finish falling off?

Despite all the activity, I'm not convinced we're adding to that particular inventory at what you'd call a fast clip.

I guess I'm going to have to revert back to Win7 from Win8 because the new calculator is broken.

If by "rap the route from that station" you mean rap off the corner tree, please instead consider just looking around the start to cruisin or under the big oak tree to the right of it and on the other side of trail from both. It would likely be somewhere in that vicinity depending on whether, or how far, it bounced on the way down. Besides, rapping off the poor old tree is a suck rappel.

Still love you too...

Careful man, there are places out there where every time you climb the same 'route' you'll be doing an FFA, if it doesn't kill you.

Sounds like a good epic story in there somewhere...

That looks like a great idea paired with a grigri for free rope-soloing with the rope hanging down. For myself after ten years or so of free, rope-soloing on a grigri I ditched it after the Eddy came out - so much cleaner, simpler, and it relocks if you pull the handle all the way back. I also carry the rope and don't care for having it hang down regardless of device and how it's rigged, but rope-soloing is definitely a 'to each his own' sort of deal and you have to sort out what works for you among all the options. RC.com free roped soloing article Various SuperTopo.com aid soloing threads http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Asupertopo.com+%20aid+solo But pay attention to any of Mark Hudon's tip, technique, or 'system' threads of the past year or two http://www.supertopo.com/forumsearch.php?s=s&o=&v=0&cur=420&ftr1=%22aid%22&ftr2=&ftr3=&ftr4=Mark+Hudon#list

For free, lead rope-soloing this is what I used to do (tab-mod grigri): This is what I now do: For aid soloing I've always just used an unmodified grigri on the same rapide mallion (10mm, INOX SS, CE-stamped, rated at 25kN)

So far Kevin was the only one who suggested adding a bolt. The only protection bolt I ever added at Beacon (and then removed), I did with Opdycke, at his suggestion, and with his help. Ditto the only anchor I added and then removed - at his suggestion and with his help (removed despite the fact, as Opdycke repeatedly pointed out, there was an anchor there originally as can still be seen today). That all said YW p1 is ridiculously overbolted, but Opdycke said that was done deliberately at the time to toss a bone to folks who came out looking for bolted lines. As far as anchors go, I'd personally remove about 60% of them entirely, but hey, that's just me.

I'm glad to hear we're past the butthole bolt idea.

Wait, you mean you haven't already done that at your local gym? How is it they let you lead the Bobcat routes without one?

Dude, you need to corner the market on Columbia River Gorge forum lawyering - you'd clean up and retire early! You can't let this hoity-toity 'the III and all' guy scoop up all the good Beacon clients here on cc.com. I'm sure the mods would listen to you after a big ad buy, too.

Yeah, and need to get up there and check out the story on the topout given the big rock fall alterations.

Why don't you just STFU! This is our crag and if you ever climbed there or did anything but sport climb or climb in the gym you would know that it is off the hook awesome. Granted I don't know you but why don't you just mind your own business. We love to bitch about shit and that is just the way it is. Now that is some damn funny shite-talking right there, Plaid. Being relatively new and all to climbing and Beacon (and so enthusiastic) you should probably get a pass on this one given, as you say, you really don't know who you're talking to here (which, you probably should, as a 'Beacon local' anyway)...

Glad to hear that's what you came away with as I've been saying that for years. It's not for everyone, but anyone up to the challenge should really avail themselves of the chance to experience the 'naked' YW in all its considerable glory.

Well, I was trying hard to be kind on the 24x7 Christian TV and reptilian Nephilim front, but now that you bring it up...

I seem to recall that in the end it was all about working your feet and getting every possible reasonable foot hold, particularly for the left foot.

It's a real stout lead, especially if you do the lower start on the right as opposed to joining the line higher up traversing onto it from the left. I've never seen or heard of anyone onsighting it though I've seen a couple of folks do it with one fall. Took me a half-dozen goes to get it and it was completely desperate / lucky that time.

Time for an update...!

Making mountains out of chosspiles is sort of what we do here in the PNW. Ivan does the same with life and we are the constant beneficiaries of his 'labors'. And in the case of his TRs I'd say a picture is not worth a thousand words, but rather the reverse.

Good on you guys for sticking with it on the cooperative front down there.

Good one, that makes you somewhere between 50 and 80 years old to anyone who doesn't know you...

You're lucky, we've lost a couple of climbers in recent years to just that kind of accident - take the naps...