JosephH

What's the application and do you have experience climbing on doubles?

Thanks - Matt, I'll let you know if they don't end up fitting my friend...

That's a good one. Son, you've got to keep up with and follow the development wave for good clean fun!

Matt, I'll come through go up does, but if they don't end up fitting the person I'm getting them for I'll be happy to pass them on your way.

I'd take them...

Glad Tyler's back to doing what he does best...

They all are Metolius Rap hangers - some bare, some with webbing and rings. The reason for the webbing and ring sets in most spots is based on the columnar nature of the basalt out there; a lot of anchors are on column tops where the anchor is set back a ways from the edge. In those circumstances the webbing and rings extends your rap rope out closer to the edge and lowers the friction substantially. Windsurfer and FFS are good examples of that situation and if you were to rap straight off the anchors back on the wall the distance of the column-top the pull gets quite a bit harder. Some anchors never had sling/ring sets or were removed over time as unnecessary - more may go over time. But, in general, the original replacement objective was to just do similar, but burlier, functional replacements of what was there and in close to the original locations / configurations as opposed to changing things up. There has also been on and off discussion over time about removing this or that long-standing anchor altogether, but nothing has ever really come of it to date.

I've done boltless both with and without the pins - when I do clip any it's usually the upper of the two p3 crux pins and the big one below the p4 crux. The short spike pin low on the p1 and the medium angle in the zig-zags mid-p4 are both set as well as can be, but I wouldn't count on either holding a fall of any distance. The one at 2/3rds up p1 is solid, but unnecessary and I don't normally ever clip it. The one on the short p5 is bomb, but not really necessary either so I rarely clip it except on the night runs.

I've climbed YW at least a few dozen times without clipping a single bolt, all doing the crux on p4. It's a far different, exciting and bolder experience which is truer to the potential of the line. On the other hand, during my headlampless, full-moon goes of it I clip every single bolt so wouldn't complain about them beyond encouraging folks to do what you are contemplating to get a feel for the difference. [ P.S. We'll have to agree to disagree - there is no justification or need for a bolt under the butthole... ]

I've never seen you stoop to slander - that was a reference to a couple of others who have difficulty distinguishing the noise in their heads and what they wish were true from reality and fact. When you stoop, it's mainly just inane most of the time. Glad everyone enjoyed Friday and Saturday which were only open due to Karl and David being way, way more gracious and kind then they had any reason to be given recent circumstances.

Thanks for the heads up.

Andrew, thanks for yet another totally illuminating post which pretty much cuts right to the heart of the spirit involved with you guys and how you think and operate. I'm an ambassador for no one but myself but after sixteen years of it I just have low tolerance for relentless bullshit these days, especially after one low slander after another. But do please keep posting up more keen insights from Colorado that show just how petty and low you guys are willing to sink to. A typical Beacon opening, c'est la vie. Anyone else? Feel free as I'm clearly the one who's responsible for the rock closing every year...

No, Bill, I think it reads exactly as he intended... So to clarify, no one can be out there until 8am on July 13th, yet you are out there replacing things that don't need replacing? At 9pm? On July 12th? By who's authority do you do such things? Nothing was in need of replacing! Slings are fine and I can't imagine there is a bolt in need of attention on any of the trade routes. The Beacon Rock Climbing Association never knew of any of this! What kind of sideshow do you think you are running here? Stay the hell away you mental case and quite screwing with routes!!!! Ah, your endless cluelessness and compulsion to post one basic mistatement of fact after another on rabid display -- always entertaining. Yes, I had 'authority' from the BRSP to be out there on Thursday night to do anchor maintenance and the usual survey for anything big which might be loose and pose a threat to trains. And, in fact (and god knows how those escape you), the anchors on the main rap line were overdue for being replaced. I know, because I bought and did all 68 anchor replacements out there and have been maintaining the slings on them all ever since and do actually know when a given set of slings went in and which ones need to be replaced each year - i.e. you have no fucking idea what you are talking about. The only 'sideshow' being run at the moment is the BRCA which was reconvened for the sole purpose of trying to get the closure amended or lifted, which isn't going to happen. Are you really so clueless as to think that setting up a facebook page somehow instantly gives you a track record of getting stuff done, trusted working relationships, or any 'authority' of any kind whatsoever out there? Man, talk about needing a serious reality check. Dude, it takes years to establish cooperative working relationships built on mutual trust, respect, and understanding. And note the emphasis on "mutual trust and respect", something utterly and hopelessly lost to you and yours - as in you are never going to get it. And do you honestly think a couple of frigging' web pages filled with shit none of you even actually believe in somehow paves the way for you to dictate anything whatsoever out there? Hey, it doesn't. And just what has the BRCA ponied up and done so far? Let's make a list why don't we: * Scheduled and completed any cooperative work of any kind with the BRSP or any of the other Beacon volunteer groups? Nope. * Monitored the Peregrines for the open date? (and the log of each session would have made such boss facebook posts) Nope, never saw a BRCAer with in a miles of the place every time I was out burning good climbing hours sitting there monitoring. * Schedule a pre-open rock survey and anchor work? Clearly not. * Call and offer to help the now beleaguered park staff (Ben is no longer a ranger as of earlier this month [but then you knew that because of your steady working relationship with the BRSP, right?]) change over the signage which is solely for our benefit? What's that you say? Nope, of course not. * Surveyed and inventoried all the anchors so you'll know what's what and what needs to be done when? You already answered that one. So the reason I was up there and not you was because I gave a shit enough to establish a now long-standing, trusted working relationship with the BRSP and it's people that's built on mutual trust, respect and understanding (and a bit of empathy) with the park. And you guys? You guys have a web page of demands for 'the man'. So, if the past sixteen years have proven anything it's that - yes indeedy - there are some mental cases about who: * Are constantly and relentlessly working against their own best interests * Intent on jeopardizing early opens by threatening and making demands of the very people they should be trying to establish long-term working relationships with * Generally thrash the place because they can't be bothered to clean up their messes * Can't be bothered invest time to do anything of any real substance * Who still think what happens out there is no one's business but 'ours' * And who still (always) think anyone with an honest relationship with 'the man' is a traitor Yeah, there are some 'mental cases' out there all right and sometimes going climbing out there is like a veritable mental health version of "In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king". The diagnosis? Incurable cluelessness, relentless paranoia, disinterest in getting well, severe self-esteem and anger management issues, and a profound and uncontrolled compulsion to publicly self-destruct with pithy internet posts. All-in-all, same as it ever was... P.S. Oh, and the only reason you even know I was out there was a couple of otherwise well-intended BRCAers ignored the signage and broke the closure in order to poach a late night go of the Corner - not really going to build the BRCA any cred if you can't keep your own membership in line.

Just spoke with the park to clarify and was told the rock will be open to climbing and the signage changed out at the park's normal 8am open time.

I will be, but you may be stoned on arrival by association, though I suppose I could slow down to a safe tuck-and-roll speed at the west end of the parking lot and no one would be the wiser.

Friday morning.

Great. Never should have closed. Refreshingly consistent, frank, honest, and sincere - people may say whatever else about you, but you are a 'Beacon' in that way and I admire and respect that about you. And in this case I personally agree with [a version of] that; but given the closure is entirely consistent with every other AF-accepted raptor closure in the nation in scale, scope, policy, and management it just isn't going to happen on any legal or policy basis no matter what volume of whining or yelling is proffered. Personal beliefs and feelings (yours, mine, anyone's) simply don't enter into the matter and, given your wife is an attorney who's frequently involved with government, you know that as well as anyone.

She's opening Friday morning...

Physical Therapy Associates 837 SW 1st Ave #150, Portland, OR (503) 450-0591 ‎ Ask for Tony (Say Rhoda's husband sent you) If you want to try a Chiro then the only one I'd consider is: Ritch Seifert 14740 Northwest Cornell Rd· Portland (Beaverton really) (503)629-9494 Similarly say Rhoda's husband sent you...

Me? Jeebus H. Christ, are you serious! I'm not the "just say no person". Fuck, I'm the farthest from it you'll ever see. I'm also not: a "just make up plausible-sounding shite with fairy dust I pulled out my arse as I go along" kind'a person a "if I finally step up and push hard on this parked Abrahm M1-A2SEP and yell at it long enough, why this time I'll for sure be able to turn it right around" kind'a person a "if we get some new blood, cuddle up in a man-circle, and stroke each other while wishing long, hard and fast enough the dream will finally come true and end our sixteen year hellish nightmare because - gosh darn it - we are all such righteous and angry people [ who have been so horribly, horribly wronged goddamn it!!! (and why, oh why, doesn't the world cry out at the obvious injustice of our persecution???!!!) ]" kind'a person But rather more of: a "what is the objective reality we're dealing with" kind'a person a "what's it [really] going to take" kind'a person a "yeah, sure, but after actually bothering to look into the cold, hard facts, just how plausible is this shite we're talking about" kind'a person a "Dude, I know man, I know and I'm with you a 110% and got you, but if you're going to keep on doing that then you may want to try and get a grip on those hallucinations" kind'a person WTF man, I'm Irish and from Chicago - we're a pragmatic, call-it-like-we-see-it lot and don't stand for a bunch of ceremony or bullshit unless there's a green river of hard liquor flowing. We also don't whine relentlessly or gnash our teeth until they're all ground down just because it feels so damn good. No fucking way and, just like putting up FAs, it's all about sizing shit up for real, putting it all on the line, being prepared to bust a move, getting shit done, and then simply moving on once it's over or ain't never gonna happen. Hell, from where I sit I'm about the only "just say yes" person in the friggin' room - and that solely by virtue of having at least an ever-so-slight grip on reality and enough common sense to assess the [real-world] plausibility and potential of the various possibilities, outcomes, and costs. And I'm the bad guy? Right on! Fine by me then. And hey, I know life is hard and we all want that pause that refreshes, but where I'm from, just because a person has too much on the line to live in a make-believe world where everything should, must, and will go their way, sail on the Jolly Roger, or go flying about with Peter Pan doesn't make them a "just say no" kind'a person - it makes them a "just a profoundly different point of view" kind'a person. [ Beaconius 4:20: Let us pray oh lord for strength and endurance as we exit this, the sixteenth dark and pestilent purgatory of our touristavian holocaust. And let each man rise again knowing once more that, though thy will has been wrought on us yet again, we still romp and still stomp like never before and smite at the dragons thou hast loosed upon us from on high. Amen brother. ]

Seen people fuck up simpler things than swinging the gate...just sayin'

Kevin is right, the gate is rarely ever closed, but when it is they don't want you coming down that way. If you do, be careful, it's not difficult as Plaid says, but it would suck big time if you fucked it up in the dark.

It's pretty straightforward - if you're going to go to war then you better do it with resources enough to kick ass, get the message across, and get the fuck out. There is no scenario where we can 'win' wars while everyone at home is obliviously shopping in a coma. If we're going to fight a war, it shouldn't be business as usual at home - we should all be engaged in one way or another until the day it is over. And we shouldn't be going big and all in when decent HUMINT (if we had any) and a few Predators would be infinitely more effective in getting the job done. It also shouldn't be rocket science that when what the enemy wants is to destroy everything your country stands for the first thing you don't do is flush everything we stand for down the shitter and then throw three trillion dollars down after it. Because when you do that, hey they win, as they have in every way that counts in this case. All the resources for healthcare, schools, infrastructure and jobs? Flushed down a hole in the desert and what we see every day on the news is the direct result of our choices.

Not set yet, but I'd anticipate it likely being open for that weekend based on where the chicks are at...