JosephH

Who's climbing around PDX tomorrow (Friday) - I'll have the afternoon off...

Bill, was saying I'll be going back out to RB; sorry about that...!

I'm going to head out to RB in a little bit here, should be out there by 4:00...

Pretty straight forward. Put an old cheap Chouinard pulley on the first branch of the big pine tree close to the road with about 4' of rope between the branch and the pulley. Then I ran an old 60m down to the garbage, through the pulley, and to the Camry right in front of the rocks by the street. Rapped down off the chain, tied on said debris on, jugged back up the chain line, drove Camry towards fence. Pretty straight forward. Took about 20 minutes thinking/setup, 20 minutes for each of them, and 20 minutes haul-to-road/takedown. Engine block did snag on the edge under quite a bit of tension and so I had to stay to one side while I cleared it over the lip as it shot about four feet when it did. Other than that I just clipped a jumar on the line once they were up and drug them over to the road which is when the Church guys thankfully came over and hauled it away. I was in and out of there in 90 minutes. Probably go back out to RB...

In case folks missed the 'Pickup truck' thread, the dishwasher and engine block got hauled out of the base of Rocky Butte yesterday and thankfully whisked away by a couple of the Church staff attracted by the peculiar shennanigans used to extricate them. But there are still some remnant parts and other trash there so if folks heading out there could take along a couple of plastic bags and grab the rest of it that would do it for this latest round. Thanks...

Not sure if it was you or not, but we went around on this topic on RC.com I believe. Basically the answer is no. Rig the first bolt as the anchor and back it up with a screamer on the second bolt if you need to. I rope solo a bunch and personally would take bolting to enable it, free or aid, to basically mean I've failed before leaving the ground.

I go back and forth on the fun thing. It was serious in my twenties and then about fun in my thirties and forties, but in my fifties I find I am not done and have things I still want to do so it's been pretty serious this go around...

Ken, I'm 5'11" and have to be in the 170's to climb 11's and mid-160's to climb 12's or better. Been quite awhile since I was climbing 13's.

What's your height and weight? For me it's always that or not getting the yardage on routes; but it could also be just wanting it, or even possibly the need of a like minded partner.

Nope - a gray Camry - like you say, maybe next time...

scheissami and anyone else I may have missed at RB. Sorry about that. I just blitzed in and out and was only there from 3:30 to 5:00 when it started to rain.

Turn 55 this summer and I'm way happy any time I can just get back to solid trad 10 - anything past that is work / family dependent. Bill and I do have a couple of hard projects planned for this year somewhat harder than that but we'll just have to see how the year goes. None of what we have planned will likely be in the teens range if he and I get up them.

Yep, one of their maintenance guys, Tom, saw me doing strange things with my Camry and came by to see the commotion. Once he saw the washing machine and engine block sitting by the road he said his crew would come by and grab it in the morning. He said he rappels sometimes and had seen the stuff down there. He then split, but came back about ten minutes later with a security guard and a truck and hauled them off. So kudos to the church guys! Next time some of you folks go out, maybe you could take a plastic bag or two along and hit the odds and ends that are still down there and that would wrap up this batch.

I'll still be going to Rocky around 3 or so - might be a couple of minutes late...

Why don't we call it for 3pm...

I could do Tuesday, either afternoon or evening or both. Maybe go early and winch that shit out of there. Someone have a pickup to haul it away in...?

Givan a lot of your alpine rock sojourns I suspect that's probably a smart idea. I like it all - leading, TR and seconding. When roped soloing seconding is integral to the experience and I like that aspect of it, that you have to do both the leading and the cleaning. But, I can certainly understand when climbing fast and mainly trying to get somewhere, like in an alpine setting, that seconding can become a drag.

The most interesting thing about it is what appears to be the one natural divot at the outer base of the overhang - it seems to have been the inspiration for the whole affair.

Ah, thanks, that's what I thought. Could just as easily have been Broughton or Beacon. Always interesting to see what can insue as folks' personalities adjust to their accomplishments.

There was only a fixed sling on a bolt and Sean did quite well and basically worked the bulk of the route out. He just needs to get the lower moves wired so he has the energy for the upper part. Just curious who did this, I'll ask Gary when I get the chance - thought you guys would know of the top of your head...

Drop straight down from the middle of the fence and you'll be on it.

So who were the authors of the wholly manufactured overhanging route out at RB?

I'm off tomorrow and more than happy to belay...

No matter how many folks do it, or where they do it, or how long they've been doing it - leaving shit up on rock blows. Period. Folks rationalizing it is just another example of group spin and collective denial. In fact, it wobbles between painful and laughable to read the attempts presented here aimed at constructing a broad justification for the practice (and the 'we've already blighted the place with chalk so draws are fine' argument in particular scores extra points...). Kevin scores on this one - taking shit is lame, leaving shit is lame as well and an invitation to weak-minded individuals posing as climbers.

And clipping bolts on short climbs is so much better? I've never quite figured out this one out when the rationale for sport is to not waste time fiddling with gear and just focusing on the physical movement. If that's the case, and in situations where one is as easy to rig as the other, then why not just dispense with the faux pro and do just that - focus on the physical. At what point did clipping a bolt gather such connotations of either skill or boldness? In most cases it is neither and the distinction between clipping pre-placed bolts and top-roping is simply a matter of collective posing - the true disease of climbing...