powderhound

Bickle is short for "Travis Bickle" the main character of the "Taxi Driver" Bickle became my nickname after various incidents. The wiggle refers to the horizontal squeeze wiggle you preform getting through the pitch.

Trip: Sawtooths: Baron Spire - FA: Deliverance 5.10c A2 III+ Date: 8/13/2008 Trip Report: I first noticed this line two summers ago and put it in the pie in the sky list. The Splitter on the upper shield looked like perfect cupped hands and it was. An improbable and demanding line linking features up to and through the amazing splitter crack on the golden prow. The first three pitches are excellent, with challenging climbing up great rock; the last two pitches are pretty poor, especially the "Bickle Wiggle"...too bad really, otherwise this would be a classic. With some work, most of the aid could be eliminated, but the section getting established into the splitter on pitch 2 doesn't look promising. The Route Pitch 1 free climb as far as you can this pitch may go free except for the small pendulum Pitch 1: Stem and jam up the shallow right-facing corner until it gets hard and flared near the top, then aid up about 15' and make a small pendulum right into a groove with a moderate crack to a belay stance. 5.10c C1+ 100' Pitch 2 Tink Tink, Turn, Tink Tink, Turn Pitch 2: Continue up a handcrack to double finger cracks on good rock (5.9+/.10-). Tension traverse right 10' to a semi-circular flake, clip a bolt and layback up a groove/crack to a small ledge(5.9). Two hook moves, a bad bolt (aid only!), and into the splitter crack which is thin at first and gradually widens with good gear in an airy setting. Semi-hanging stance belay past the second small bush, where the wide handcrack begins. 5.9+ A2 170' This was an impressive lead by my partner, the lead took three hours one day and another three hours the next Pitch 3 Notice my good luck hat under my helmet Pitch 3: Gorgeous, sustained cupped hands for the whole pitch! Start up a steep zig-zag and then rollover onto splitter goodness up a slab. Set up a hanging belay where the crack ends in a wide horizontal. 5.9+ 90' Pitch 4 No Pics for this shit hole The "Bickle Wiggle" a truly heinous horizontal traverse along a grungy wide crack/groove with much strenuous, weird and unpleasant climbing. Belay on the arete to the left of the massive upper dihedral system of Tall Boys... Unrated 45' Pitch 5 Pitch 5: Make a cruxy traverse left off the arete into the huge dihedral system and pick the best line up this long corner with much dubious rock. 5.9 180' Pitch 6: the bolt ladder Gear Notes: double set through bd#4 and 3-4 BD#3's hooks and blades

One down, two more to post yet.

Get to use those valley giants up there yet?

there coming soon

:lmao:

The "Bickle Wiggle"

Trip: Sawtooths - FA: Lawdogs' Lament III 5.10- A1-2 Date: 8/24/2008 Trip Report: baron in all its glory We climbed Lawdogs' Lament and Deliverance this August and climber Tallboys last summer. Pitch 1 65m 5.9- Squeeze and go, run the rope out to the best belay place. Pitch:2 55m 5.10- Head up the chimney/offwidth and then step out left to a slab to gain a RFC. Take this up under an offwidth on the left side of the chimney. Traverse out to some airy moves and head straight up finger and hands five feet left of the offwidth. Belay just below the Splitter RFC. Pitch 3 90ft 53.9- All the Red and Gold BD's you wanna give it. Belay on a ledge Pitch 4 Take the far left line off the ledge and wiggle up the squeeze to a finger crack in a flake up to an off hands crack. 5.9- 35m Pitch 5: go around to the west face of the summit block and start up the bolt ladder. This pitch took three days and was put up in 1949. We finally put a summit register on the top. This thing is kinda crazy. One of the last aid bolts is a metal dole sticking six inches out of the hole. Rappel: You can now rappel down the east face with a 70M rope and some low 5th class downclimbing. It's are belief that this is the best moderate route in this area. All of the pitch's are on bomber rock and provide an excellent route to the top with all the pitch's climbing between 5.9- and 5.10-. Gear: Double set through #3 BD and 1 #4 BD.

Look at the Perch. Its a Dowdell route on the Northwest Face and appears to start on the far right and asscend the most prominent sheild.

Nice work gents. Is that on the same face as Dowdell's: The only dance there is, V 5.10+ 13 pitches?

Pooling Info: I'm leaving PDX on the 15th. But continuing on to Bozeman the 29thish.

Great action, I'm getting geared up for August. Sounds like a great trip.

While I feel for people dying on am mountain far away from there family I don not feel for non climbers who feel they can pay there way to the summit of the highest mountain in North America just because they have fancy gear and a well paid guide service. Deaths like this might serve as a wake up call to those individuals who do not understand the dangers of such a high mountain.

That time of the month? CU Nxt time Bill how did the wide crack go? Did you get to use your valley giants? I hope you did and I will bring you back some nice salmon when I get back from AK.

Drove through there a couple of weeks ago and the area looked generally snow free.

When did you get those? You been holding out on me?

Driving through to Oregon on Thursday night, and into Friday morning and I am looking to get some laps in on Friday during the day or around PDX at night. Bill....any plans?

I need to put my helmet back on, remember that I am mortal.Thanks dane for helping me realize that shit happens even to the conscious climber.

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=pih&smap=1&textField1=42.10028&textField2=-113.63278 The weather is going to be splitter and clear, some possible moon light climbing. Anyone else headed out to the city for some splitters, crimpers, and hot springs?

I have a buddy that placed his first bolt around 15. Since than he has put out two guides and bolted over 250 routes, he is now 23.

once again do some research, maybe look in a book

Kip, If you aren't to stoned to remember you already asked a very similar question about colleges earlier this winter. Further this topic has been discussed many other times and I am pretty sure you know where the Missoula section is on Rc.com and mountainproject.com. Think of it this way Missoula=300+days of Fog a year Bozeman=300+ days of sunshine each year

the thing is sick but to short to be considered an 11a

There is not good climbing in the tooths. But I will be there for the last two weeks of August, out in the baron and warbonnet area. Send me a pm

I second that. ALSO Todd Skinner Anyone pulling down hard and putting up new routes that get no publicity, like my buddy Trevor (over 200+ FA's) and he is 23. Pat Callis Jack Tackle Bean Bowers Will Gadd because he dominates everything he tries