Anybody getting/planning to climb any obscure ice while it's cold? Someone must be up to something today with such a great excuse for not working and cold temps.
Is theweathernetwork.com forecast for Hope no good? It shows cold weather all week with a high of +2 on saturday and +1 Sunday. THe rest of the week looks cold. I was thinking of driving up there from seattle this weekend. I figured with a whole week to form, north facing stuff would fare fine with a just few hours above freezing on the weekend. Does that seem wrong?
I was visiting a friend down in santa cruz last weekend and we went to the climbing gym (pacific edge). In the back room, they have the bast crack training system I've seen. It is maybe 10 feet tall with over a dozen cracks side by side ranging from 1/2" to almost 4" in 1/8" increments on the low end and 1/2" increments on the high end. Furthermore the angle is totally adjustable. It would be awesome if a local gym would build one of these.
Favs right now
WA Bolts: Crux pitch on Dark Rhythm
WA Crack: The pitch before the offwidth on EF Lexington (climbed off route using the Tooth and Claw finger crack)
I have only climbed in OR once. I thought 5 gallon buckets was fun. The only crack I climbed on that trip had a weird name that started with Lyc.......
depends on the gear and location of the hole. Carbon fibers are strong because they are continuous fibers. The introduction of a hole creates a stress concentration as well as a discontinuity in the fibers. If you need to fasten two things together, you should really consider an adhesive. Otherwise, you might want to reinforce the area around the drilled hole with some sort of patch.
I havent climbed in COdy, but I have the winter dance guide book. I believe it makes a point of mentioning how little it snows in cody. I recall something about the biggest dump ever recalled by a local was less than 2ft. Basically, the book says for the most part in a typical season avalanche hazard is non existant.
Note: This is from recollection and it is possible that I am transposing sections of the guide book.