TrogdortheBurninator

Thanks montypiton. Are you using hose clamps and pipe holders for the triggers, or something different/better?

I have seen quite a bit of discussion on this board regarding fitting regular leashed or leashless hybrid (viper, quark, etc)tools with either factory or customized upper grip positions. I am wondering how useful people find these grips on WI tools. Last weekend I used my new x-monsters on ice for the first time, and really loved the ability to choke up either for a higher lock off, or to straight arm on a tool not swung at full extension. Now I am wondering if it is worth adding something to my quarks (which I will probably still favor for pure ice), to allow comfortable choking up on the tool. So, how much do people really use these upper grips on these sorts of tools compared to newer full on leashless tools.

I think they already sold out online, but the seattle store still had some last week. I showed restraint and did not buy any.

Just its charred ashes.

Nice work leading champagne pax. The First tier seemed to be in pretty easy shape, but the second and third looked tough. Trotsky's felt like 4+ until we put some pick holes into it, a pretty far cry from the grade 3 in the book. Does the climb ramp out a lot more when it is fatter? Children of the Sun was by far the highlight of the trip for me. It would have been a heady lead, but on toprope the climbing was just outstanding. Probably the single most fun pitch I've ever toproped on any medium (rock or ice).

No spurs, not sure what is hanging of the poons. Maybe a leaf.

Tunnel Vision is listed in DC's guide as 10D. It definitely felt like 11- to me though. Angora Grotto is the heavily bolted crack Kevbone refers to. I'm not really sure what the logic is that has allowed those bolts to stay. The crack section is definitely great climbing. Seems weird to bolt the crack considering many climbers would bring a couple pieces for the 5.7 approach pitch anyway.

Scrambled around the ledge on the left. Kinda sketchy with a lot of bush whacking.

1-2 hours depending on the climb. Forecast looks really bad though.

More Banks Photos: Salt & Pepper Friday Morning Salt & Pepper Friday Afternoon BrianM on Trotsky's Folly BrianM on Children in the Sun Weekendclimberz and Mcash on Champagne

These discussions do not fall on deaf ears as they can be very formative in developing the ethic of new climbers. Unfortunately, the alpinist/trad majority espoused on this website basically means the discussion is eliciting the response of deaf ears who often have already laid the foundation of their personal ethic. I would guess that the majority (at least of vocal sprayers) on this website view sport climbing in the context discussed by some of the more articulate sprayers in this thread ,i.e. as a rewarding means of challenging one's self while developing skills and strength applicable to the broader sport. However, the broader population of sport climbers should be made aware of these ethics, regardless of whether they are opposed to their own. While I enjoy climbing bolted routes, and dont agree with all of what Pope and dwayner say,I feel that their argument is far more insightful than those who use misplaced analogies to argue an issue just so they can have an excuse to join the thread. Summary: Keep the bolt discussion flowing so that it is more likely to reach a broader population of googlebot climbers just entering the sport. While I don't think these climbers should agree with everything pope and dwayner espouse, it is important that they realize these opinions exist.

Not the best time of year for rock climbing around here, so you will probably have more luck with those requests in the spring. I'm sure somebody would let you borrow tools at drytool night if you went.

Someone needs to shoot the icicles down proactively.

I used my BD guide on icy ropes for the first time last weekend too. I was similarly unimpressed. Tons of stick slip drag. Did you try flipping it around? I didnt, but wonder if that might alleviate some problems.

Seems a lot of people like these gloves. Add two pairs ice floe gloves to cart Apply coupon 51666 for 20% off $75 or more use google checkout for $20 off $50 = ~$22/pair + shipping http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/224,55076_Cloudveil-Ice-Floe-Gloves-For-Men-and-Women.html you could also use this coupon for a decent price on a rope. IE 9.8 NE Dry Rope for $82 http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/2493,78326_New-England-Climbing-98-mm-Standard-Dry-Rope-60m.html

The forecast for the weekend is above freezing, but tomorrow and fri have highs of 26-27 F. Anybody want to blow off work and head out there. Thurs is preferred.

I think the report makes frequent mention of the importance of surface area. If you dig your trench narrow enough (ie by dragging the wire, or using an axe pick), you lose very little of the total surface area. If you backfill with slightly weaker snow, I would expect the loss in strength to be almost negligible for a very narrow trench :speculation:.

Badbill, this is exactly why you should read the report. You need to dig a narrow trench for the wire, or else drag the wire so that it runs plum from the anchor. I actually thought their results were rather reassuring in the sense that properly placed snow pro can be quite strong in a wide range of snow conditions. The practical tests (dry/wet, fingers/pencil/knife) are easily reproducible in the field.

The make regular mention of msr coyotes throughout their report, so it looks like they used both cross sections.

Maybe people have seen this before, but I thought it was an excellent and practical study on snow anchors. I stole the link from Crackers' blog. http://www.alpineclub.org.nz/documents/activities/instruction/snow%20anchor%20report.pdf I have had numerous discussions with partners about snow anchors, and it is surprising to learn how little me or they knew. Amongst other takeaways, the report makes a strong argument for wire swaging to the middle hole on your picket.

We saw this bobcat on whitepine rd on sunday. Definitely the longest view I've ever had of a wild cat. He was standing in the road when we pulled the corner, then he ran into the woods. My buddy had his camera, so he handed it to me and I snuck around the back of the car. Rather than run, he just stood there curious. The light was low, so the pic is pretty bigfootesque. I had an SLR in the trunk, but another car was coming the other way so I didnt have time to grab it. Now I'm bummed I didn't.

Good to hear that hubba hubba is in. It looked kind of thin from the road. Observations Rainbow falls is flowing down the middle Millenium wall is in fun condition. Top outs might be sporting on lead. Plastic fantastic lover looked hard, but maybe doable for someone strong, ditto comic book hero Snow Creek wall looked challenging Chandelier falls has a lot more water than it appeared from the road (found the hard way) Whitepine drool was pretty wet, but if it stays cold should be good soon. Photos:

That looks pretty cool. It would be neat if some of the seattle parks followed suit and built some casual climbing structures. Woodinville skatepark also has a little manmade boulder. It looks like it would be fun on a sunny afternoon if were closer by.

Nice! Looks like a fun way to start the season.

I use titegrip fairly regularly. If you wash your hands first (ie at a gym), it seems to last pretty well. Cragging I just re-administer every couple routes. I always supplement the liquid chalk with regular chalk because I have chronic sweaty hands.