TrogdortheBurninator

I havent climbed in COdy, but I have the winter dance guide book. I believe it makes a point of mentioning how little it snows in cody. I recall something about the biggest dump ever recalled by a local was less than 2ft. Basically, the book says for the most part in a typical season avalanche hazard is non existant. Note: This is from recollection and it is possible that I am transposing sections of the guide book.

Just saw an uncofirmed thread on st.com that Todd Skinner is reported dead on leaning tower. Hopefully the report is not true, but condolences to his family and friends if it is. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=270833&f=0&b=0

If you want to climb more waterfalls, get the quarks. If you want to climb more alpine routes get the grivels. Both tools can go both ways though. It seems that plenty of strong alpinists use quarks with good success.

Had a great time. Nice to see some familiar folks, as well as putting a face to some other avatars I hadn't met. Thanks for putting this on. Chuck at Careno An anonymous sea kyaker from bellingham on pumpline http://picasaweb.google.com/Jason.Killgore/RopeUp2006 BTW happy birthday Chuck

Looks like an awesome trip. That place is so much fun. I think there is a picture of that new route somewhere on supertaco.

The only thing thats good practice for bank slalom is building up your quads or riding the bank slalom course. The course is easy, it is just a matter of enduracnce if you can push it the whole way.

I think british pantry in old bellevue used to have it. Not sure if they are still around though.

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I received this important message in my email and thought it was so important I should share it with everybody. Think of all the important messages you might have missed with your spam filters. I also received an important email for boyfriend recruitment. BTW scottp, thanks for googling me:)

So CBS, you would pull a 5.9-5.10 move 100 ft out with a clean fall?

Okay, so I was thinking about this the other day, and the bolt nazi post further piqued my interest. How often do you find yourself making dangerously runout moves close to your limit. As in there is a real chance of blowing this move and a real chance of breaking bones or worse. Sure, i've run it out on easy gear and easy friction (subjective obviously), but I don't know if I've ever made a genuinely hard move way out from good pro, or even above sketchy pro without good pro reasonably close below.

For my current standard rack, they work really well. In the mid range sizes, I use C4s .75-2, a red TCU, and the two link cams. It is nice because while they serve as doubles for the 1 and 2 C4s, they also nicely fill the size from red TCU to .75 camalot. This effectively gives me 4 pieces in the ~.75 camalot range if the need arises. My typical strategy is to place the camalots first and save the link cams for higher up the pitch or for the anchor. I think they also make sense on easy alpine climbs with a very short section of crux climbing.

Colt45 and I confirmed on eldorado that they are in fact a bitch to clean if overcammed. The key is just practicing with them and not placing them in overcammed situations unless the situation exceptionally dire. Personally I like red and yellow. FYI - #1 Omega -> 0.82-1.7 #2 Omega -> 0.98-2 .5 C4 -> .85-1.1 .75 C4 -> 1-1.3 1 C4 -> 1.3-1.7 2 C4 -> 1.6-2.1 So both link cams span 3 C4s. The nice thing about the #1 link cam is it spans some hard sizes from off fingers to thin/tight hands. The #2 uses much of its range in the bomber jams sizes.

The NW Corner is awesome too.

I think it is in the beckey guide.

Anybody interested climbing in index or darrington tomorrow. I can drive and have gear.

Clearly dechristo and I are masters of global politics. Look for us on a split ticket this november.

Terrorists hate freedom. They want to take away our freedom. Clearly the best thing to do is take away our freedom ourselves. That way we can thumb our noses at Osama and show him who is boss.

i just thought everyone would like to see jesus on a dog's butt

hallucinating

just a thought, but SCW is a sunny crag

You guys are assholes. The other party made it safely up a route that was probably a big challenge for them. They woke up before you guys and made it to the start. WTF do you expect. I gues I have a hard time grasping your idiotic thought process. Since you suggest that the slow party held you up the entire way, I will assume you were "forced" to spend 11+ hours on route also. Since you did the bypass, you could not possibly have encountered the other party until two tree ledge. That leaves 4 "real" pitches to asses the situation. I can imagine the other party spent the bulk of their time on these pitches as they are a lot harder than the first and last pitches. So at two hours a pitch.... After the hand traverse, you rationalize that that was a hard pitch, so maybe the time is warranted. After two hours on the pedestal, you probably are getting pretty frustrated. You think to yourself, "hmm, there are two more pitches of 5.8-5.9 ahead. THe last 2 pitches of 5.8-5.9 took 4 hours. How long could the next 2 pitches possibly take?" At this point you look at your watch, the sun, or just use common sense and think "hmm if we keep going up we will be 4+ hours more on route". If my calculations lead me to beleive I would be topping out after dark, and I wasnt prepared for/familiar with the descent, I would just bail. You can probably bail relatively inexpensively from the pedestal i would think. While everything alpinefox said is rehashed tongue in cheek, I largely agree with it. The slow party doesn't owe you shit and you cocksuckers deserve all the ridicule you get.

Gary Y and I climbed davis-holland loving arms on saturday. Got a good taste of humble pie, but still managed. On sunday I worked "pit crew" for my friends race at SIR. I got to run the modified Le Mans start for an enduro race which was pretty cool. BTW, pit crew basically means I sat around and ate and drank and took pictures of the race, while getting in free and doing maybe 10 minutes of actual work.