TrogdortheBurninator

Here is a photo of you guys on your route.

News this big deserves a double post.

Mike (Colt45), Aaron (ZMAN), Eric (Eric8) and I headed out to mtnrs creek on saturday to survey the damage caused by the heat wave. As with most great ice trips, the day started with temps in the upper 30's at the parking lot. Seeing as it hadn't snowed in weeks, we opted to leave snowshoes in the car (mike didnt have any). 8 mile road involved endless postholing through a basically isothermal snowpack. Still, the approach wasn't too bad (with the exception of whoever was breaking trail). We figured the upstream ice crossing would have melted out, so we butt slid this knobby wet rotting log. We let aaron go first because he weighs the most. (from Mike) The good news is there is still a bunch of ice in the drainage. The bad news is it is basically all surface rotten. To start, Mike and Aaron started up the right corner of the broad flow left of "The Ten Essentials", while Eric and I checked out a "mixed" line between "Nametag on Helmet" and "The Ten Essentials" that we noticed on our first trip. Aaron commented on generally poor ice conditions and dubious pro, but fun nonetheless. The mixed line took a little longer to put together. Eric attempted a proud ground up ascent, but ultimately a dropped tool and blown hold (as well as other suspect blocks on route) prompted some top down cleaning and placement of two pitons. After taking a TR lap each, Eric made a seemingly effortless ascent on the in situ gear from his first attempt. Afterwards aaron and mike climbed the route too. We pulled our pins, but future ascents should be able to get by with small TCUs (particularly a blue TCU placed in the left seam above the obvious V slot). "Basic Rock" M6-, Gear to 2" with doubles 1-3 TCU (optional preplaced KB) Next, Eric and I checked out a pillar we had also looked at on our first visit. The pillar is located left of "The Ten Essentials" and right of "Gaiters on Slab." The pillar looked rotten and had a fracture across it, but a small KB crack just left of it gave some hope for a safe ascent. I was able to get a few marginal screws before the no hands rest next to the pillar. An awkward and strenuous piton placement gave me enough confidence to peer out from under the roof. From there I placed another easier pin and cautiously moved onto the pillar. Delicate tiptoeing got me past the pillar to a difficult to protect, albeit easy, exit. I finished traversing far left to the "Gaiters on Slab" belay tree. Pink = "Gaiters on Slab" WI 3+ Green = "3 ft Picket" WI 4- In the meantime, Aaron and Mike put up another line uphill and right of shorts over polypro. Aaron refused to name it, but we think "Aaron is a Mountie" is a fitting name. Lots of fat ice left still. I am convinced this is the best moderate ice crag in the state (doesn't come close to the desert for steep hard climbs). There are so many lines from WI2- to M-hard waiting to be climbed.

http://www.cnn.com/2007/US/02/12/dolphins.sealions.ap/index.html "Sea lions can carry in their mouths special cuffs attached to long ropes. If the animal finds a rogue swimmer, it can clamp the cuff around the person's leg. The individual can then be reeled in for questioning." "We believe the United States' citizens deserve the very best defense possible and this just isn't it," Boyles said, adding that dolphins are easily distracted once in open water. "They don't understand the consequences of what will happen if they don't carry out the mission."

MT forecast looks pretty balmy http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/USMT0040?from=search_10day

Glad to hear you guys survived. If I were you Jens, I'd stay away from suspect ice the rest of the season. Someone has it in for you. Where was this?

Right on Kurt!!

REI.com is having their super clearance thing again. All prices ending in $.83 are an additional 50% off. Most deals suck, but there are some ok shoes and stuff. Also, the sale applies to reioutlet.com and in store too.

What size are the koflachs?

I picked up a pair at the end of last summer and like them so far. I am not much of an aid climber, but have used them to that end a few times and thought they were very comfortable and supportive. They hike well, but I havent done any actual snow routes in them, even though I bought mine mostly as a snow approach boot for rock routes. I bought mine at Feathered Friends on sale for around $170 I think.

I havent been to wild iris, but COR seems like it would be a great place for kids

Are you looking for Climbing Boots, or just regular old out in the snow boots? You could also go REI.com, mountaingear.com, EMS.com, Sierratradingpost.com or any of the other numerous sites. Madrockclimbing.com was closing out their alpinist boot a while back for $100.

Exactly, the percentage of customers that could feel morally ok with abusing the system to that extent is negligible. In regards to your first comment, REI effectively has all of their manufacturers by the balls. The volume associated with distributing at REI basically means REI calls the shots. It is a very big deal for many manufacturers to get products into REI.

Did you check out Zappos.com? They have a great return policy (free shipping both ways), for 1 year. They tend to have low prices and will price match any other site.

REI accepts returns on everything (including cams, ropes, everything). How hard is that to understand. They dont resell climbing protection. My guess is the stuff gets returned to the manufacturer or trashed.

Alright Kevbone, I'll bite... How can ice climbing possibly be contrived? The difficulty of ice perhaps is contrived, but the pursuit is about as pure as they come. How often do you find a rock route where passage is only possible a few days weeks months a year. Ice lines are natural and beautiful, often even more so than a perfect splitter crack.

Looks like a heady lead. Nice work! What makes you think it is m7-8 (similar difficulty routes elsewhere perhaps?)?

There were like 6 parties up there on saturday. Eric and I tried the line in Brian's pics, but the ice kinda sucked, and it was starting to rain (late start), so we bailed. Another party was headed up towards the pillar Dave and Scott bypassed as we were leaving. Not sure if they bailed too. Doubt there have ever been nearly that many people up there at one time. Looks like it could make for a a pretty cool winter crag during colder seasons. FYI, the face is littered in Avy debris, so stay away after fresh snow.

With the boost mode (for short durations), and the lens diffuser up, the petzl can probably cast out in the 50 yd range (petzl claims 65m). The tilt mechanism completely blocks the on off switch when the headlamp is stored. To turn on, the lamp must be tilted down, and the small rubber button depressed. It could happen, but it hasn't yet to me. It has a battery indicator, but I can never remember what all the flashing lights mean. Seems to last quite a few trips though. One of the nice things is that if you notice it starting to lose power, you can switch to low beam and milk quite a few more hours from it. Petzl says 70 hrs on high and 170 hrs on low (also dependent on temp). There is a new belt pack version that could mitigate most temperature performance issues.

You are right, that first one is "Ten Essentials". Dial M for Mountie looks cool. We looked at that one too, but there is only so much time in a day. That last photo is a great overview. Fun, fun, fun!

That looks like a fun line. Well done.

I havent use reactors, but for the money, Grivel X-monsters are pretty awesome and surprisingly versatile. Supposedly they are selling replaceable picks now too, negating the main disadvantage of the first generation imo.

That is amazing!!! Is this the 2nd time the traverse has been done in winter?

I would think for an all around lamp suitable for route finding, the BD Spot or MYO XP would be best. I have the MYO XP and have no complaints. All of the features are well thought out and useful. Also easy to use with gloves and well balanced on my head. Not sure what some other brands are offering that is equivalent.