Dr_Crash

That must be why we men don't take the pill, since we already start with a lower life expectancy; we've got to minimize further risk... drC

If you're also going to crag with that rope, consider a bigger diameter like 9.8-10.2mm. Look at the number of falls and impact force in addition to weight to make your decision. It's a tradeoff. For glacier, no need for a 60m. I have a 37 m Sterling 8.4 mm double which is just fine for a rope team (3 with coils or 4 without). You can also go under 8mm if you wish (resize your prusiks then!). drC

Common alternatives to pulleys: - A biner (double use: biner, high friction pulley) - Tibloc and its accompanying locking HMS (triple use: locking biner, high friction ratcheting pulley, ascender; fourth use if you consider putting it on your rope during glacier travel is different than "ascender" which it really isn't) Any other good multiple uses gear? drC

Risk of exposure to sensionalist articles in the press by activity: Climbing: 1 in 1 All others: 1 in many; except if it's newsworthy(like the drunk pilot of a hay cutting machine falling under the blades) You've got to admit that climbing accidents are sexier to report on, what with all of us being irresponsible selfish daredevils. drC

Nice TR and awesome pics! I've had two planned trips to that ridge cancelled this year because of weather, and I so want to climb it... drC

There are a few dedicated to glacier travel and crevasse rescue out there. The ones publish by Falcon and the Mountaineers are the most common. There are other books dealing with rescue systems in geat detail. So what will make your book a compelling buy? Or is it an online book you're writing? There is less information on 2-person teams and basically no information on solo glacier and self-rescue. That could be an angle. drC

Watch out for these hanging belays, guys drC

The really bad thing is when you really cannot know until the thing goes, like in sobo's example, or like that flake on Midway that everybody had climbed on but decided to fall on my head and my belayer's leg when our friend went on it. Absolutely no warning, and our friend had climbed it 2 minutes before downclimbing and restarting. Speaking of flakes instead of blocks, if that's all you have, it's relatively easy to figure whether they're hollow or not by tapping them. And I've been given the advice to use nuts rather than cams behind them if possible, as the cams would lever off in the case of a fall (for rapping, nobody would leave a cam unless it's the only option). Seems to make sense to me, what do people with more experience say? drC

Look at how many people set their top ropes with two non locking biners with gates opposite and opposed. A typical example is to just use two of your quickdraws at the top of the climb. It's the rare occasion to see someone with locking quickdraws for the anchors on a sport climb, for example (trad climbers have a more varied rack). Having a non-locked locker is just like having a regular biner. I agree that since it's a locker, locking it is better (even safer than two non-lockers) but would one argue that the rope couldn't have gotten pinched if the locker had been replaced by a non-locker instead? RE: what I'd answer, I'd apologize to a degree related to your anxiety. And remember to take advantage of a locker by locking it next time. drC

I just freed a few glasses of tequila + grand marnier + lime juice, does that count? drC

Nice job. I take it you climbed Sat? drC

Your definition of bouldering on the site is way too long. To broaden the appeal, you should use AskMen.com's definition: It's much easier for the layperson to understand. drC

And so cheap. I got convinced to buy C4s (had forgotten about the DMMs, and Jim Nelson said they're much better than the DMMs and was replacing the 4CUs with C4s on his light alpine rack) but at this price you can get the whole 11 cams for the price of .4 to 3 C4s! drC

Yeah, I looked at the forecast and it's 42% chance rain on Sun. I am so tired of this !@^*!(@$# "summer" (especially after the crappy winter; it's all reversed). Tomorrow is 20% only but it's a bit late for that (still in Seattle), and Monday is partly cloudy. Hmmm. I'll try on Sunday. Better to turn back than not get out. drC

I'm thinking of driving down there tomorrow and soloing early Sun morning. Any recent conditions updates on both routes? I climbed the Hogsback last year, and may just go with what I've done already since I'll be alone. drC

Roping up would be total overkill. Heck, even crampons are overkill. As mentionned by others, an ax is a good thing to steer your glissade down (lots of glissading there). drC

Change the letter somewhat before sending it, or write your own. Sending the sample letter as is is not as effective. drC

drC

Well, my week-end started today because of the planned climb. So I did bike a few hours today. If you like being toyed with, PM me drC

Marie, I'm afraid some of these people may be toying with you (just a little) drC

Who is Michael Layton's favorite MILF? Can we see pics? drC

I was going to climb, and the trip was cancelled re: bad forecast So instead I biked my ass off (as in: my ass hurts, hate these saddle thingies), but still, I wanna cliiiiimmmb! And now I'm relaxing. (Not on the back of a horse though I'd try given the opportunity ). drC

Eh. I'd rather not have caffeine than having brewed coffee. Now if someone could make my 40 lb setup become 2 lb (and work off an XGK), I'd be interested! drC

Won't happen

They're discussing sewn slings (Spectra or Dyneema typically). drC