Dr_Crash

I have about 6 left. I'll try to make the best of them. drC

What kind of boats? drC - only pretending he climbs

Hey, I did pride myself in taking care of my shock risk. Don't go around saying I was mildly shocked when you came by drC

Coondog will post a full TR with pics. I was tempted to get a pic of my friend's gash but hmmm, we had better things to do My friend had climbed on the flake, and then went down to replace pro, and when he got back on (hands on top of the flake, feet leveraging against bottom from what I understand), the whole thing went off. He said it felt bomber the first time, and never wiggled. drC

My helmet today took the blow for me as a coffee table sized chunk of a bigger block went straight down on me and hit my head, then kept on damaging most of my right side, from shoulder to ankle (various scrapes, a nice deep gash, bruises and other fun things). My buddy who got some of the other part of the block on is head (and on his leg, making a big gash down to the bone, ouch!---I feel lucky having escaped stitches) may also need to say thanks to his helmet. The helmet, a BD half dome, is now retired. The foam is nicely cracked inside. Helmets when rock falls on you. Let's see: 30 stitches in the head while skiing 2 years ago (earning my nickname), a car accident in November, rock on my head today... Maybe time to get a nickname that does not tempt fate as much? drC

I am also looking at the Grivel Air Tech Evo. About the same weight, traditional non interchangeable pick, but T-rated bent shaft. What do you think, if I had to get only one kind? I could pair one of these with my Air Tech Racing ax. drC

So, were you pleasantly surprised (asusming you had them on Stuart)? How did they feel? drC

Has anybody used the Aztarex? How it is? I was going to get a third tool to go with my Grivel Air Tech Racing ice ax (mountaineering, straigth shaft, classic pick, B rated shaft)... But a tool like the P'tit Loup or the Grivel Black 3 is 16 oz, and that Aztarex thing is 18 oz... So... Is a pair of Aztarex a good set of tools for alpine and water ice? Or will I be disappointed when I'll start the latter? If it's good, then I'd rather get one now instead of the third tool and complete the pair later. Is the B rated shaft an issue (likely not at that point in my climbing abilities)? Is the Aztar much better? Thanks, drC

Trango shark nut tool. This way when you drop the nut tool you drop the knife too. Besides that slight disadvantage it's much lighter than a regular nut tool and a Spatha. drC

Trango shark nut tool. This way when you drop the nut tool you drop the knife too. Besides that slide disadvantage it's much lighter than a regular nut tool and a Spatha. drC

And then you have the dumbasses like me who have a national parks card and paid $30 for the NW forest pass instead of $15 for the (more useful) golden eagle sticker. Live and learn. drC

Extreme and dangerous are different things, CBS. drC

My BD half dome works great. My only issue with it is that the adjustment is done by velcro, and I'm not sure how long that thing will last. drC

$200 less, an ounce less minimal, a few more all packed. The Mont-bell Jupiter Dome Tent 2 seems pretty bomber. Not single wall, if you insist on that, though. drC

Nah. I just checked. It is way less. There are many annual insurances (FFME, CAF, Au Vieux Campeur) which provides for competition, and one can buy a daily insurance for 2 Euros a day for the occasional thing (an incentive for people who say want to just try climbing for a week). drC

The armed forces also reclaimed the guns they loaned to resorts for avalanche control. drC

Want to find booty in those crevasses? drC

Re: the pack, you can also use a pack prusik regardless of where you are on the rope. Make this the prusik closest to you. drC

Just wiping them with a cloth to get the water off is enough to prevent rust. Superficial rust can be taken off very nicely with a gummi stone (ask your local ski shop). drC

4 gear loops for the stated use (snow/glacier and a bit of climbing eventually) is a lot. 2 would be fine IMHO. Also, on snow/glacier padding usually is made up by the clothes you're wearing, so you can skimp on the harness padding and go for simple webbing. I personally use a Petzl Adjama for everything. It's 13 oz and there are many modern padded harness at just that weight. I've used a loaned alpine bod previously and it was fine, including hanging with clothes on. drC

No, mine. Damn it, I picked pink 'cause I thought it wouldn't be "climber" enough as a color drC

Olyclimber, go to a ski shop and ask a bootfitter if they can fit you in. Grinding the toe box a bit should be reasonable ($30-50), maybe better than selling those and getting another pair. Paul at Issaquah Ski & Cycle told me he was doing those kind of jobs. drC

I have an 8.4 mm because I wanted a double to (guess what) double up sometimes but have used down to 7.5 mm. Small diameter perlon is your friend. drC

I wear a 42 street (42.5-43 for hiking/running/mountaineering) and use size 40 Mythos. I would have fit in a 39.5 I think, but as it was my first pair of shoes I thought the pain was intense enough in the 40. After a short while they became very very comfortable. They stretch a lot. (Of course there is the theory that if we didn't buy shoes that are too small they wouldn't stretch...) drC

Another classic drC