Dr_Crash

I'm new at this game, but was told yesterday by a rep for a rope brand to never use half ropes clipped together as twins. His explanation was that the force that would be put on a protection in a fall would be much greater (by about 30%) and the protection likely to fail. Twins are designed not to stress the protection as much and obviously need to be clipped together. drC

Thanks guys for putting this together. It was cool (and wet), and being the complete newbie I am, I learned stuff a the clinic (placing gear / building anchors). Thanks Dave and Eddie for the teaching. I didn't win anything (cries). And picked up a stomach virus. I may have met some of you though (I was the guy with the "slight " French accent). eternalX, were you the guy who come with his girlfriend and another friend who wanted to camp, and climbed that face on belay from Paul? It was fun. Marshall, if you read this and this hasn't decided yet, my vote for any extra money is to send it to the Access Fund. drC

By "shorter" head I meant that if you look at both axes from the side, the Raven head isn't as tall as the Air Tech Racing, and the teeth aren't as pronounced. Again, I can't tell if that matters or not. I guess I'll carry in self-arrest grip when conditions will warrant it, yes. What did you mean by "absolutely must carry in self-arrest grip?" That you'd carry in regular grip and switch to self-arrest as you fall, yourself? Rodchester, care to elaborate about the superiority of the Raven Pro? And re: price, I can get the Grivel cheaper than the BD through a friend, so no worries here (also $20 of difference for a tool I'll trust my life to and will use a long time isn't a factor either). drC

Right now I am using a 65 cm Grivel whatever (black shaft, traditional spike) loaned to me. If I need to return it (for example to climb with the person who lent it to me) I'd like to buy one of these two. I am looking for feedback from owners of both, and ideally someone who's tried both axes. The Raven Pro is 1.5 oz lighter, and has a real spike, which I like (though I don't know if it really is that much better than the cut shaft for glissading and getting purchase on ice, but I can imagine it is). The short head (height-wise) worries me, though I am not qualified to determine whether it is worse than the Grivel head or not. it is stainless steel, don't know if it makes a difference. The Grivel's head looks better to me (see disclaimer about me having no qualifications above) but I've read the teeth on the pick are too close to the shaft to do a boot-ax belay without damaging the rope (anybody can confirm this?). It's a bit heavier which feels nice swinging the ice. The weight may be a small liability when ski mountaineering, my main occupation so far, where the ax stays on my back most of the time. I am starting to climb though. After buying a 5.5 lbs 55 liter pack and skinning up a lot with it, I am also starting to believe in "lighter is better". Which one do you like best, or what do you like / dislike about one of these? Thanks, drC

I'd be interested (and do have glacier travel experience). Any more info on the tour? drC

If you also want to get an FRS radio, some of them (e.g. the Motorola Talkabout T5950) come with weather radio. A pair will typically set you back $40-$60. drC

Dru, you're pretty much right on my situation. I'm looking at Alpinist for mountain / adventure / inspiration porn, not for tips or things to do myself (yet). I used to spend about two months a year in the mountains as a kid (no climbing though, hiking) and am being drawn to them again after a long pause where sailing and skiing were my main occupations. For tips / instruction, the Web or specialized books seem better for that (feel free to recommend anything) I think. And of course, real people are even better. drC

The R&I (and climbing) sucks thread made me wonder if you guys have some feedback about subscribing to Alpinist magazine. Who has, and is happy or unhappy with it, and why? drC

Thanks guys. drC

I'm planning to go (w/o kids or guns). It'll be my first time at Leavenworth, can any of you guys help me understand where the things are happening? The RockFest Web page mentions for example: "Meet at the Barney's rubble climbing area on Icicle Road (Mile 5.5 up Icicle Road from Icicle Junction)." I have no idea where that'd be. Is camping free both Friday night and Saturday night? Might be easier to drive Friday pm than early Saturday. drC

So I am trying to get a list of good quality watches that will do altimeter plus heart rate monitor (I'd like to avoid having two watches). Prices are from Froogle. Suunto X3HR $169 Suunto X6HR $330 (and the X6HRM) Suunto Advizor $265 Polar s720 $253 What else? Any feedback on the different models? TIA, drC

I'd be interested if the price is decent. drC

Very nice line! If you need company in another trip there, please please please consider me... drC - Ski often!

Would Mountain Sole do a job such as putting Vibram on the sole of an alpine ski boot so that the boot would still be within the DIN binding norm? A bit of rocker would be nice too but just a sole would already be great. drC

That really sucks. Mountains are tough. I totally understand his aunt's quote. My uncle couldn't stop climbing either, until a mountain claimed his life and his guide's. Have a good thought for the survivors, guys. drC

Dude, get a map of Mt Adams (if USGS quads, it's two maps), that will help with the above two questions as well as be useful for the climb... (And yes I'd answer if I had my maps right around here, but I don't, and I haven't made a trip there yet, sorry...) drC

Climb: Mt Rainier-Nisqually Chutes Date of Climb: 5/16/2004 Trip Report: Sunday, we decided to head to Mt Rainier to ski Paradise Glacier. However, the visibility was not really with us, as this magnificent shot of Rainier from the road shows: So instead we decided to forego the glacier and go ski the Nisqually Chutes instead. The chutes are about 3,000 feet above Paradise, and I was told were really fun to ski. We were a party of 6 and found 4 friends on the parking lot, and decided to combine our trips to make one. So here we go, slogging along towards Panorama Point... After a while, we decide to boot up to gain the upper ridge. I am not a big fan of booting up with G4s and Trekkers on my back... ... but some people apparently love the boot up: Anyway, we resume the slogging, and slog, and slog, and slog... We finally reach the entrance to the chute we were to ski. Kim checked the snow conditions on that aspect. And we went for a few nice turns. Different people have different styles (Damn, can't make this one work: http://tinyurl.com/2lhba is a link to Webshots; maybe try this link instead). After all that fun and these precious minutes of skiing, time to get on the skins again... And reach the parking lot. The day was spent in light rain and fog, with a bit of snow thrown in at higher elevations... drC Gear Notes: G4s + Trekkers. Ugh.

Bump. I learned about the OEC when I was considering volunteer ski patrol last year (went with teaching skiing instead), and since then have thought of either doing that or an EMT. Pros and cons of both? I can't find much info about the OEC on the Web either, any pointers? Finally, if I went the EMT route, would you recommend a college on the east side (live in Redmond), it could be more convenient for me. Thanks! drC

Nice. Note that all your homepage pics still link to your old site. drC

Are you saying a carabiner on a rappel sling is free for the taking, but not a rap ring? Sounds weird to me. I'd leave the biner on for the next guys. RE: the replacement question. I don't know if you were attacking the Mountaineers org or anybody who claims to be a mountaineer (no capital) and doesn't enhance places (s)he uses heavily... In any case, sounds like people who spend a lot of time at an established spot could try to see if Climbing's anchor replacement initiative program would work with them. I'm new to that whole thing but I'll gladly contribute some time if needed. So will you to justify your existence, right? drC

At the very bottom of the second page, it says: That would be a way to get the answers you want. drC

NOLSe, I guess my re-ply was slightly off topic as this will be my basic hiking/skiing/camping kit. As you pointed out, I should then customize it depending on what I do. And there's an Accidents in Mountaineering book on my way somewhere in a USPS truck. drC

As of last week-end, the choice is between a 3/4 mile walk before snow if starting from Marble Mountain Sno Park, or having to leave the car on the road 3-4 miles before Climber's Bivouac because of snow and go from there. My trip that week-end got cancelled, so I'll wait for Climber's Bivouac to open and see whether one can ski from there or not when they open. drC

For 1-2 days trip for 1 person, has anybody used that 3.5 oz kit? There is also a 6.5 oz 1-4 days / 1-2 person kit. Throw maybe a SAM splint somewhere else in the pack (one per party, only if going far) and you'd be set. The splint may not even be necessary if wood is easy to find. I'm thinking of getting the small one for myself. drC

Very nice. I'd be up for a tour if some of you guys want to go. My small tours partner blew his knee heliskiing drC