Dr_Crash

Hi, Do you guys have a recommendation for a place where I could do an early skin up and decent downhill? By myself, which requires low avy danger. For now I'll be going to Alpental but it's two hours of driving round-trip, and I'd like something closer (I live in Bellevue). Anybody interested in that kind of workout is free to join (that will force me to go too ). drC

What about the Grivel and Camp crampons?

Tom, if you decide for synthetic, I'll be happy to sell my -3 C (~ 25 F) bag. The rating is a true certified rating, the bag being European it has been tested against Euro rating standards (which means that you'll sleep very comfortably in it at 25-20 degrees, and can go lower). I've used it for winter snow camping with no issues whatsoever (and I sleep cold). drC

I vote for a snowboard. Obviously, ridicule hasn't killed the snowboarders, so we know they could take up snowdancing too and survive. drC

The nice pic is great Extremo, stop banging the moms and start working on topping that.

Matt, an overhand is *not* a follow-through knot, so the EDK is indeed an overhand with long tails. Also there are no non-flat overhands, just poorly dressed overhands with two lines (though that would be tough to do accidentally). Tie an overhand and look at what your tying hand does: it goes over the hand holding the rope while tying the knot; hence the name. Climbing.com says that the overhand knot is simply a variation of the square knot. Riiiiight. And a variation of the bend sheet too then. (The bend sheet, or its double variation, by the way, is the perfect knot to use to tie together two lines of different diameter when the ropes are tensioned. It will slip without tension, so it wouldn't be great here.) Note that it's only a death knot when non-Europeans tie it, trading tail length for rappel length drC - Pedantic

I'd have to double-check for details, but from my initial read it looked to me that it was more a matter of pace rather than itinerary, where the French guidebook puts in one day itinireries that are spread over two days in the British one. If you want the details, I'll check it out and post back. drC

History will see that there was only place for one funny looking sport on frozen water, and curling won. My favorite ski ballet figure was the "broken leg." drC

The Reverso does indeed have a tendency to lock if you're not promptly paying out rope to your leader. And according to Petzl's manual, autolocking is compromised if my 8.4 mm double is icy, yet 8.4 mm is too large for the Reversino. WTF?! Do we need a Reversinette for 8.3-8.4 mm ropes? Who's tried the Mammut Matrix? It's like a B-52 but needs only one biner on the anchor side regardless of whether you bring in one or two seconds, like the Reverso. drC

Wait, true ski ballet was done with longer skis. This is cheating. [A Google search later...] Harry, this picture is about ski dancing. Tsk tsk. Though I guess one of the commonalities between the two <cough> disciplines is that neither will be featured in Torino's Olympic games. drC

I like Alpental small as it is, but the Summit wants to market it more aggressively ("Schralp the Alp!") since it's the only real terrain there. Restaurant seats in the other areas are sorely needed indeed. drC

Gotta be a female for CBS to spend so much time in that room. drC - Bring it on

What about the number of actual falling climbers? I know I contributed to that one this year. drC

I would like to ski the Chamonix to Zermatt Haute Route, and while I am working very hard at guilting my friends into coming with me, I thought maybe some here would be interested too. Preferrably the French way (as described in "Ski de randonnée - Valais central" by François Lalande), not the British way (as described as the "Classic Haute Route" in Bill O'Connor's "Alpine ski mountaineering - Volume 1: Western Alps"), i.e. in 5 days versus 7, so that the extra days can be used as needed depending on conditions, or to go from Zermatt to Saas-Fe on an extra day. Due to my new exciting life as a single dad, planning is basically tied to school breaks. Well, isn't it convenient that the best time to ski the Haute Route is around spring break? If you're interested and qualified (i.e. less fat than me, and with glacier skiing experience), please chime in. drC - Always the French way

Easy close to home (not much remoteness): Mt Catherine. It's all trees. I've seen indications of small avalanche activity in big holes in trees, but you'd expect that. drC

So, uh, I only climb 5.10s, should I quadruple my slings then? Or use starched dogbones? drC

I nursed a hangover in the living room today. not too bad...but not too good either.

I'm going for the blue ones I think. I like the acid heel of the green, but the top is not "fugalicious" (as my friend Paul says) enough. I think it's the perfect Christmas gift from my mom, especially because I can then blame the buy on her I'll report on them... drC

La Sportiva builds on a narrow last. Scarpas are wider. Go to a good shop with knowledgeable people and they should be able to steer you right. Depending on what you want to do, a half shank is enough (e.g. for most glacier travel), or you may want a full shank. drC

It's time to replace my outrageously blue "not-many-boys-would-wear-these" Puma shoes. And guess what? The Puma Beta is all we need! Street smarts (YMMV), climbing rubber, the real questions are whether they work as approach shoes and if theý're comfortable enough as every day shoes. Hmmm. Tempting. I'm not one to be stopped by a so-called fashion faux pas. And maybe I won't fall off Guye Peak with those instead of my approach shoes, next time. drC

NOLSe and other hardcore guys... You've got to realize that Mont Blanc and mopst of the Alps were conquered by people lugging huge quantities of wine and other liquors. Do you? Climbers who value the spirit and heritage of authentic alpine training stick to wine, beer, shots, and water (I know, I know...). On and off the mountain. It works, too. drC

Yes I realized yesterday (w/o Internet to correct my post): it's the energy transmitted, not absorbed. The legend is misleading but the text is clear. drC

Great document. It's interesting to see that the HB Dyneema helmet, whose disparation is lamented by many, doesn't fare that well on top impacts (vertical energy abosrption). Given that's where these pesky rocks always fall on me, I don't regret not finding it. drC

I don't see why you'd want that with the Laser Sonics. They place really well. As was posted, it's a bit tougher than the BD with the folding handle, but not that much worse once you figure out a way to grab the swivelling hanger. And I love the fact that you can clean them while still attached to the rope. drC

If you can afford a dedicated set of snow tires/wheels for winter, it's the best thing. Especially if you drive the way I drive (too bad the Miata was crashed---by someone else, I swear!---a nimble RWD car on snow is oh so exciting!). You also get the additional advantage of being able to pick the tires profiles specifically for snow; typically this means you go down 1" in rim size, and end up with taller and slightly narrower tires, which go better through snow. drC