Dr_Crash

Would body butter work too? drC

Thread is the best way. Dental floss or sail repair thread. There were studies from Mammut about failures of the rope over an edge if the sharpie-marked section was on the edge (same for brand-approved markers like Beal marker). Not very likely but hey, so was my last accident. drC

One of the things most people do not think about is that if rescues stop being free, then the rescuers cost may not drop. They will dramatically increase their exposure to lawsuits, as people will expect rescue (today rescue is not a promise, it's a best effort); they will need to buy insurance for that; they will need to do clear accounting of what they did (since they bill), taking their focus away from the main goal of rescuing people during an operation. Everyone's costs will go up, and rescues may actually become worse. The question of how volunteer organizations interact with a paid-for team will also be interesting... Keep them free. We pay taxes for that. And if you want to keep the worst idiots out of there, you can still sue them for reckless behavior and endangerement when this is clear (I believe that happened on Rainier once). drC

Say 'hexakosioihexekontahexaphobia' 616 times very quickly, and see what happens. drC

On glaciers I use a 37 m 8.4 mm double (Sterling, whatever was cheap on a 30% off sale in PDX last year); perfect length for up to 4 people. Beal makes a "Randonnee" rope which is cheap and good for glaciers but not for climbing. drC

There's also a true difference between being afraid of heights and afraid of falling. drC

Maggot/Minion? drC

I'd trek with it but not ski with it; for skiing, I'd rather use something with a pick but no adze: a bit less sharp things flying around. I'd ski without poles and with an ax though if I had to but at least I wouldn't use the thing for planting. drC

Depends who your kid will drop if he/she messes up My son has a Grigri and an ATC-XP and knows how to use both but he'll only belay me or his brother with the Grigri for now. It's too easy to drop someone. The Trango Cinch is a bit less $ and weight than the Grigri, but less smooth. It should be as secure though. drC

Never seen it, but seems lighter than some: https://www2.montbell.com/america/asp/products/Spg_shosai.asp?cat=1201&hinban=2322237 drC

I've got a Myo 5 and a Black Diamond Moonlight. The Moonlight is great for around camp and alpine starts in easy terrain but doesn't project enough light for more difficult terrain; I had it on Rainier and had difficulties seeing where to go (it was my first time up too, likely a factor). That's why I got the Myo 5. If I were to buy another Myo I would likely get the one with the small remote battery pack, for cold. drC

Use a plastic scraper. If you can't make it work like that, you can use a base cleaner. Citrus-based ones are the least aggressive. After using a cleaner, make sure to wax your skis again. Depending on how anal you are and how much time you have, you can go anywhere from a simple wax coat to a few hot scrapes / feeding coats of base wax (a storage one like Swix BP 88 or your favorite Cascade weather wax - Swix red in my case) to reimpregnate the bases, since the cleaner, doing its job, will have stripped the wax off. Also (just in case) never use a base cleaner to clean the bases except when you need to remove the wax, for example before making a repair (wax will not help bonding, and needs to be removed). For all other cleaning needs, use hot scraping. drC

Cloudveil and Mammut both make top of the line clothes at about the same price; they heavily use Schoeller fabrics (all my soft shells are of the Dryskin variety except my Marmot one which has been recycled to in town clothing as it is always either too hot or not windproof enough). They differ in details (some of the Cloudveil tops have a nicer fit, Mammut have better functional details in some garments, like thumb loops and reinforced knees; my Cloudveil Switchback pants are not reinforced). Check these out. FF carries both, 2nd Ascent has the Mammut ones (though thanks to a mis-shipment they only have very big pants sizes right now!). In my book, anything with laminate is not a true softshellm but opinions varies. If you're interested to try a fancy multi fabrics garment, Marmot has one which uses different fabrics for different panels: windproof laminate in front, something heavier for the shoulders to guard against rain, something very breathable for the back (usually protected under a pack), etc... This might work for you. Patagonia has some cool winter softshell pants, the Super Guide I think, with nice features like integrated gaiters and real crampon patch. Haven't tried them outside the store though. drC

So, when the Bugaboos climbing guide (the Canadian one) shows 60 m pitches, do they mean the distance really is 60 m between belay and anchor or that 60 m of rope arenecessary (and therefore the distance is somewhat less than 60 m)? I am not sure Beckey and Chouinard were climbing with 70 m ropes. drC

I liked your comment. Just wanted to emphasize to others the main reason why it is bad if one travels in avalanche terrain, where that shovel could help save a life. drC

His blade looks like an SOS blade. Polycarbonate leaving him/her hanging out in the cold is one thing. But leaving him/her not able to dig someone from an avalanche is a tragedy easy to avoid. Go to an avalanched zone someday (checking that it is safe to do so, duh; a good place is in a resort after avalanche control) and try to dig through debris: it is very solid. A metal blade will not only not break like polycarbonate can, it will be better for digging through that compacted snow. drC

Right. That might balance things out. drC

Yes, Gary, please tell us. Plus, love doesn't last forever for most people, so why encumber oneself with a ring that will? drC

Nice. Less hardcore than the whippet though, as when the blade is retracted you don't have the fun factor of risking a cut if falling. drC

If you want small and light, get the BCA shovel without the probe; it is cheap. You'll want to carry a real probe anyway, so why have the small one in the handle? Extremely light, metal; it is lighter than some plastic shovels. Do not get a plastic blade! Or be ready to have to hand it to one of your partners in exchange for his/her metal blade shovel before crossing avalanche terrain. I own both the BCA one and an SOS shovel with the light silver blade and a snow saw in the handle. Whenever we practice avalanche rescue or dig a snow cave, the SOS is the envy of everybody because of the bigger scoop and the huge handle. Of course, this (size, as well as the extra weight) is what makes me leave it home most of the time, except for backcountry skiing where I cross more avalanche terrain. drC

Size 9, what Mondo size? About a 26 shell? (I'm trying to go down to a 25). drC

I'm happy with my lightweight half dome (well lightweight until the quarter dome came in). And I got a convertible 3-4 seasons from REI for $79 (7 lbs for 2 people) that I'll try on snow if I don't succumb to the temptation of getting one of the sweet Montbell expedetion tents (can you spell overkill?). drC

I just follow the chicks climbing above. Many of the ones climbing trad have a big rack too. drC

Lightweight bivys rock. Home made ones even more. A friend of mine made me a Gore-Tex upper / silnylon under bag with full-size waterproof zipper. 9.1 oz stuff bag included (and a lot of that has to be the messy seam sealing job I did ). drC

Yep. Only scratched at the crags, I swear. Just don't mind that crack in the foam inside, it's for better ventilation... drC