Dr_Crash

Never seen it, but seems lighter than some: https://www2.montbell.com/america/asp/products/Spg_shosai.asp?cat=1201&hinban=2322237 drC

I've got a Myo 5 and a Black Diamond Moonlight. The Moonlight is great for around camp and alpine starts in easy terrain but doesn't project enough light for more difficult terrain; I had it on Rainier and had difficulties seeing where to go (it was my first time up too, likely a factor). That's why I got the Myo 5. If I were to buy another Myo I would likely get the one with the small remote battery pack, for cold. drC

Use a plastic scraper. If you can't make it work like that, you can use a base cleaner. Citrus-based ones are the least aggressive. After using a cleaner, make sure to wax your skis again. Depending on how anal you are and how much time you have, you can go anywhere from a simple wax coat to a few hot scrapes / feeding coats of base wax (a storage one like Swix BP 88 or your favorite Cascade weather wax - Swix red in my case) to reimpregnate the bases, since the cleaner, doing its job, will have stripped the wax off. Also (just in case) never use a base cleaner to clean the bases except when you need to remove the wax, for example before making a repair (wax will not help bonding, and needs to be removed). For all other cleaning needs, use hot scraping. drC

Cloudveil and Mammut both make top of the line clothes at about the same price; they heavily use Schoeller fabrics (all my soft shells are of the Dryskin variety except my Marmot one which has been recycled to in town clothing as it is always either too hot or not windproof enough). They differ in details (some of the Cloudveil tops have a nicer fit, Mammut have better functional details in some garments, like thumb loops and reinforced knees; my Cloudveil Switchback pants are not reinforced). Check these out. FF carries both, 2nd Ascent has the Mammut ones (though thanks to a mis-shipment they only have very big pants sizes right now!). In my book, anything with laminate is not a true softshellm but opinions varies. If you're interested to try a fancy multi fabrics garment, Marmot has one which uses different fabrics for different panels: windproof laminate in front, something heavier for the shoulders to guard against rain, something very breathable for the back (usually protected under a pack), etc... This might work for you. Patagonia has some cool winter softshell pants, the Super Guide I think, with nice features like integrated gaiters and real crampon patch. Haven't tried them outside the store though. drC

So, when the Bugaboos climbing guide (the Canadian one) shows 60 m pitches, do they mean the distance really is 60 m between belay and anchor or that 60 m of rope arenecessary (and therefore the distance is somewhat less than 60 m)? I am not sure Beckey and Chouinard were climbing with 70 m ropes. drC

I liked your comment. Just wanted to emphasize to others the main reason why it is bad if one travels in avalanche terrain, where that shovel could help save a life. drC

His blade looks like an SOS blade. Polycarbonate leaving him/her hanging out in the cold is one thing. But leaving him/her not able to dig someone from an avalanche is a tragedy easy to avoid. Go to an avalanched zone someday (checking that it is safe to do so, duh; a good place is in a resort after avalanche control) and try to dig through debris: it is very solid. A metal blade will not only not break like polycarbonate can, it will be better for digging through that compacted snow. drC

Right. That might balance things out. drC

Yes, Gary, please tell us. Plus, love doesn't last forever for most people, so why encumber oneself with a ring that will? drC

Nice. Less hardcore than the whippet though, as when the blade is retracted you don't have the fun factor of risking a cut if falling. drC

If you want small and light, get the BCA shovel without the probe; it is cheap. You'll want to carry a real probe anyway, so why have the small one in the handle? Extremely light, metal; it is lighter than some plastic shovels. Do not get a plastic blade! Or be ready to have to hand it to one of your partners in exchange for his/her metal blade shovel before crossing avalanche terrain. I own both the BCA one and an SOS shovel with the light silver blade and a snow saw in the handle. Whenever we practice avalanche rescue or dig a snow cave, the SOS is the envy of everybody because of the bigger scoop and the huge handle. Of course, this (size, as well as the extra weight) is what makes me leave it home most of the time, except for backcountry skiing where I cross more avalanche terrain. drC

Size 9, what Mondo size? About a 26 shell? (I'm trying to go down to a 25). drC

I'm happy with my lightweight half dome (well lightweight until the quarter dome came in). And I got a convertible 3-4 seasons from REI for $79 (7 lbs for 2 people) that I'll try on snow if I don't succumb to the temptation of getting one of the sweet Montbell expedetion tents (can you spell overkill?). drC

I just follow the chicks climbing above. Many of the ones climbing trad have a big rack too. drC

Lightweight bivys rock. Home made ones even more. A friend of mine made me a Gore-Tex upper / silnylon under bag with full-size waterproof zipper. 9.1 oz stuff bag included (and a lot of that has to be the messy seam sealing job I did ). drC

I have about 6 left. I'll try to make the best of them. drC

What kind of boats? drC - only pretending he climbs

Hey, I did pride myself in taking care of my shock risk. Don't go around saying I was mildly shocked when you came by drC

Coondog will post a full TR with pics. I was tempted to get a pic of my friend's gash but hmmm, we had better things to do My friend had climbed on the flake, and then went down to replace pro, and when he got back on (hands on top of the flake, feet leveraging against bottom from what I understand), the whole thing went off. He said it felt bomber the first time, and never wiggled. drC

My helmet today took the blow for me as a coffee table sized chunk of a bigger block went straight down on me and hit my head, then kept on damaging most of my right side, from shoulder to ankle (various scrapes, a nice deep gash, bruises and other fun things). My buddy who got some of the other part of the block on is head (and on his leg, making a big gash down to the bone, ouch!---I feel lucky having escaped stitches) may also need to say thanks to his helmet. The helmet, a BD half dome, is now retired. The foam is nicely cracked inside. Helmets when rock falls on you. Let's see: 30 stitches in the head while skiing 2 years ago (earning my nickname), a car accident in November, rock on my head today... Maybe time to get a nickname that does not tempt fate as much? drC

I am also looking at the Grivel Air Tech Evo. About the same weight, traditional non interchangeable pick, but T-rated bent shaft. What do you think, if I had to get only one kind? I could pair one of these with my Air Tech Racing ax. drC

So, were you pleasantly surprised (asusming you had them on Stuart)? How did they feel? drC

Has anybody used the Aztarex? How it is? I was going to get a third tool to go with my Grivel Air Tech Racing ice ax (mountaineering, straigth shaft, classic pick, B rated shaft)... But a tool like the P'tit Loup or the Grivel Black 3 is 16 oz, and that Aztarex thing is 18 oz... So... Is a pair of Aztarex a good set of tools for alpine and water ice? Or will I be disappointed when I'll start the latter? If it's good, then I'd rather get one now instead of the third tool and complete the pair later. Is the B rated shaft an issue (likely not at that point in my climbing abilities)? Is the Aztar much better? Thanks, drC

Trango shark nut tool. This way when you drop the nut tool you drop the knife too. Besides that slight disadvantage it's much lighter than a regular nut tool and a Spatha. drC

Trango shark nut tool. This way when you drop the nut tool you drop the knife too. Besides that slide disadvantage it's much lighter than a regular nut tool and a Spatha. drC