letsroll

Heavy rain down south, record snow up north. Guess it is time to start looking for a place north of seattle. I really need to win the lottery

lol.... MMMM mucho exposure....and that was not a problem going up.

lol guess I should have said to be clear. The decent was teh climbing route. A.K.A. Down climb the 5.1 route. Guess if the guy on summit post did not rap the route then he called up his heli to pluck him off the mountain cause there is no other possible way to get down other than rapping. Or maybe there is?????? down climb the 5.1 route?? No that would be way too hard. Nobody would ever do such a crazy thing.

Take the prussiks out of the pack, put them on your harness. Getting them hung up while climbing???? Never happens to me, but I have them shortened while on my harness, just like every other sling I take, alpine runners, slings for ankers. If you climbed a 5.1 you can bet that the decent is the climbing route. Ten again if you had more experience in the hills you would know that. It also seems you were neglagent in your resurch for the route in the first place. Looking on summitpost is a very basic thing to do.

I am planning on giving the route a go in a couple of weeks. I have a question on the "fixed" gear. The guide book says as well as other places that the route will go clean. Is this still true. Should I take a hammer to give the pins a test pound? I am really excited to give this route a go. Just want to be sure I have good info since this will be my first alpine aid. I have one set of C3's, Double .3-#3, one #4, two sets of nuts. I am going to look into borrow double set of aliens (older model) and get another set of .3-#3. I am thinking this will get me up the route. Am I wrong?? I am also going look into borrowing some hooks.

Hope it is like last the last one. PLEEEEEEEEEEEEase

WOW. Nice pics. Can't wait to see some more. This an annual trip?

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/112819/page/0/fpart/1

but..but...but the criminals have rights too.

nice shots. You guys got me thinking. I might try and take the G-friend up there, dones not look too bad. Hell then I can tick if off as well. Then I can be done with that one

Your kidding right?? I have taken the Megalight on a couple of trips and it worked but you better be below tree line and choose your spot wisely. If you do use it make sure your well ventalated. half inch gap at the bottom will prevent condensation. Also make sure your deadman are bomber!!! It is a great tent but I would only take it in good or decent weather, otherwise it is ID MK3 for me. Light and bomber, don't have to worry as much about where I camp. Also digging/flattening a platform or building walls takes 1/3 the time than it does withe the MegaMid. Oh I would forget the floor. Never had one and I have never missed it. that way you can dig a foot well inside your tent to put your boots. Also if you have to piss in the middle of the night just roll over I take a closed cell foam pad for on the snow and a blow up for comfort/warmth.

Knotty I should be there sunday. Well if it does not rain too much.

Thanks for info guys. I will look into the HB's. I hope to give the Petzl's a try some time soon. I am going to set up a traverse in my garage to pratice cleaning a traverse. Can't quite picture it in my head after reading about it, so better try it on the ground than on the route. If I find any offset nuts then I will grab some and let you all know. Think I will try to borrow all the gear I can this trip just to test it all out to ensure I know what I am looking for. Fenderfour, How many sets of the BD micro's do you have and how many sets of the Metolius offsets do you have??

lol I think it was "fat chance." Well I hope you tag it. Thayer Headwall looks soooo much better. Can't wait for the TR or lack of one

Billcoe thanks for your work spraying!!!! While only one person here thinks it unwarrented, they are in .0000000001% of people who use that place. Personally spray everything. Poison Oak sucks and I shudder to think what would happen if I got it on my rope (or at least how long it would take me to figure out that it was on my rope). As for the bolts go for it. It is a friggen rock quary. I will say it again it is a ROCK QUARY. For those who chop, you suck and if I come across those persons welcome to a world of hurt. It is not like it is a natural rock butress or you are grid bolting or bolting cracks where trad gear can be placed.

Dinomyte if you don't get it this weekend then this winte/fall we will have to give it a-go. I have yet to do this one as well. Weather not looking so hot for a summit this weekend, but good luck. What is this trip number 4 for the year??

Sounds par for the course. I have a low success rate. That may be due to the fact I head up no matter what. Been burned too many times by the it is bad in town so it must be bad on the Mt. Going to start doing more trips on the east side this winter in an attempt to up my success rate. But hay at least you get out. Better than sitting on the couch watching cartoons sat morn. Rather get out and fail than not, heck I have a few good stories that way

Not only is that bad practice, it looks like crap. What people are too lazy to clip thier own draws? What next, leave the rope up for out door TR'ing? Beginners have to learn to clip bolts and think about rope drag at some point. Better on an easy route than on when they are pushing thier personal grade.

Well Counterfeitfake there is nothing like planning for the worst and hope for the best. Maybe that is just me. I hope to god I never have to jug icy ropes and don't plan to. To be sure if I ever have to I will let you know how it went after I clean out my shorts. Rob thanks for the info. I just have not come across those and have yet to see a placement for them. But I have not been looking. Offset cams yes, but not nuts.

I did what I now believe the Collier glacier a few years ago. First alpine experience and just hiked up it with backpacking boots. This trip is what got me going in mountain climbing. I would bet the Renfrew is the same. I had no issues with crevasses. Heck I thought I was on a larg snow field. The North Ridge by now is totally melted out so there should be a clearly visible climbers trail up it. I started at the saddle between north and middle sisters. This is just a hike. There is a fair amount of elevation gain but great views and going through the obsidian is sweet!! I had a blast. Take the trekking poles and leave the rest if you plan on hitting the glacier later in the day. This next weekend you migh have some hard snow conditions in the AM and crampons would make travel easier.

well it was post 420 then

I put this in the rock forum instead of the gear forum. Seemed a more direct place to get my questions answered. If this is not correct please feel free to move. I am thinking about picking up some ascenders. My choice is between the Peztl ascention or the Black Diamond nForce. The Peztl is the classic and the ones I would have purchased till I read the review on RC.com. The reviewer noted that the BD ascenders would be good one icy ropes, in the big wall book I am reading the make also note that ascenders of a simular type are good on icy ropes. I don't want to buy more gear than I have to, so one set is the goal. Has anybody used the DB nForce??? Would the Peztl work as well as the DB style in icy conditions??? The reviewer on RC said that the BD were not too bad to work, or not at least any harder to work than the Peztl. I am going to do some aiding next month but would like the option of having the gear for some bigger climbs in the winter that I have my eye one if I get things figured out this fall hence the icy rope question. But mostly I just want to buy only ONE set Also I noticed on the Peztl and the Yates ascenders that they have two holes on the bottom to clip into. How important is this?? I guess the Yates are an option as well, are these any better than the others? While I am asking questions there has been refereces to offset nuts. What are these? How are they different than regular nuts? I have the BD nut set for reference. (please forgive any spelling errors)

So you guys made it to the top???? If so how was going through the last shrund? That is where we topped out.

http://beyondclothing.com/customize/steel-shock-convertible-pant/

Sweet pics, and holy crap, WOW is all that comes to mind.