Chad_A

Right on! I miss The Tick...

PM sent about Black Metolius cam.

Awesome comparisons! I'm jealous that you have a family that has a history in mountaineering. My family looks at me like I have a third eye in my forehead when I speak some of the trips I've done.

Bump- Ergos still for sale, with one new Cascade pick included. At work, but can email pics later. 225 bucks for the kit. If outside OR/WA, buyer pays shipping.

Yeah, we saw that the sign had been knocked over when we were there earlier this week. Bright move by somebody.

It's certainly on the list- I've had so many people refer to it as one of the best climbs in the park, that I feel like I have to go back and do it! Dan- Glad you liked the pics-I'll certainly relay that on to her

Very cool; I'd like to hear about that one sometime

Trip: Tetons- Disappointment Peak - East Ridge Date: 8/6/2008 Trip Report: After two years of non-stop work in attaining her degree, it was decided that Megan and I would take a trip together to celebrate- it was no easy task deciding where to go. “Somewhere I haven’t been before” was her main criteria, and I’d had the Tetons in mind for quite some time. After many suggestions to do the East Ridge of Disappointment (II, 5.6), we decided on that- and what a fun climb it was! I’m very proud of her- she worked pretty hard getting up there, even though the altitude was bothering her a bit, and she hadn’t had a pack on her back for quite some time. We warmed up the legs on a day hike to Garnet Canyon, with views of the south side of Disappointment Peak, Nez Perce (pronounced “Nay-Parsay” per the Jackson Guidbook) and Middle Teton. There was still a bit too much snow to hike up to the Lower Saddle (~10,000) with hiking shoes, so we stopped in the Meadows (~9000 feet) and drank in the views: The next day, after fueling up at the Bunnery (awesome breakfast-very recommended) and buying a new tent at Teton Mountaineering (failed zipper on our old Sierra Designs), we hiked the standard Lupine Meadows trail to the junction that leads to Surprise Lake, our camp spot. After a quick walk past Ampitheater Lake in the flip-flops to the base of the route, we cooked dinner and hit the sack. The next morning, we hit the trail and were at the base of the route by 7:30. Then the fun began- great handholds and slabs galore; really fun climbing. Lots of ascent options. The climb basically consists of two short pitches of 5.easy, or one long pitch, then 150 feet or so of horizontal walking, then ~3 pitches of climbing to the summit plateau (5.6 at hardest). The weather was forecasted to be changing, with thunderstorms coming in- so we bypassed the true summit and took in the views from the top of the climb, and then headed over to the “Lake Ledges” for the descent back down to Ampitheater Lake. We spent another night up at Surprise Lake, then left the third morning. We hung out at the Gros Ventre campground for another night, and watched the thunderstorms roll in. We bailed for home Friday morning, taking the long way past Jackson Lake and through Yellowstone on the way home. It was lots of fun taking Megan up a Teton climb and watching the looks on her face as the area unfolded in front of her eyes- and I can’t wait to go back (Irene’s Arete looks awesome!) More pics for viewing pleasure: Gear Notes: Small set of stoppers, Metolius Cams 0-5, BD 1-3, one large hex. Used it all. Bug repellant mandatory- check Jenny Lake ranger station for need for ice ax; may be useful for descent. Approach Notes: Lupine Meadows trail to Surprise Lake bivy. Ampitheater Lake to base of route. Standard approach shoes appropriate.

Here's some pics I took on a ride yesterday from Surveyor's Ridge- if you PM me your email address, I will send you big files when I get a chance- you'll be able to see where the upper crevasses are pretty clearly.

what about the design results in them getting stuck more often? I'll be damned, it's not just me. I don't know what does it, but man, they do get stuck easy. Supposely they're the same range sizes as their other cams, cam-for-cam, but I don't have as many issues with the other Metolius stuff I have. Edit- I think I'm supposed to put one of in here.

Sorry, I guess I should have elaborated, or rather, been less blunt. I was simply going by what we experienced in very early July a few years ago, when we were dodging quite a bit of rockfall low on the ridge, and rocks were whistling by us up at Thumb Rock, as well. If you go, have fun. I just hate the thought of being under all that loose rock late in the season when the snow isn't gluing things together. Best of luck! Cheers, Chad

The ridge will likely be a melted out death climb by that time- I'd make plans for another route.

Be forewarned- the first part of the initial paragraph mentions "bone spur". About five years ago, I had a couple of foot xrays done due to other issues, and the "callouses" on the toes that I had turned out to be bone spurs. (And yes, they were somewhat painful.) If it's causing lots of pain, I'd see a podiatrist before trying to file away something that may not be, well, "fileable". Just my measly two cents. Cheers, Chad

Rock on...James is gettin' after it this year. Nice TR!

I can! To paraphrase my pal James, "The second beer tastes good...I don't even taste the first one". Looks like an awesome trip- I hope to get up there someday. Thanks for the TR, it was a great read.

Right on, Dan

Great pics! Looks like a fantastic overnight trip for the g/f and I. Thanks for the post

Crikey! Good work and thanks for posting

Nice TR, great read!

Nice pics, I'd forgotten how pretty that route can be, especially with the new snow. Thanks for sharin'

Nice pics! Can't believe the corona- that's beautiful! I can't believe it's JUNE and there's still that much snow up there on the mountain. Better enjoy it, I suppose; next year will prolly be the driest ever...

Looks like you had a great time. Congrats

It's about time you posted another TR- welcome back. Nice pics, and thanks for postin'.

Mr. Farr- get yer ass back to studyin' .....

I just received an email (the usual American Alpine Club email newsletter) that states that climbers need to be a member of a UIAA affiliated organization (such as the AAC) to be able to get a permit to go into the usual valleys such as the Llanganuco, Santa Cruz, and Ischinca to climb. Here's what they're saying...might want to check in the Casa de Guias or talk to Chris at Cafe Andino for the official word...